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L’ABSYNTHE – Paris
Beetroot Gaspacho with goat cheese, a thick juicy steak, their signature Le Hot Duck as appetizer… these are only a few of the savory items on the menu that you’ll find here at the Michel Rostang’s L’Absinthe. It is run by Michel Rostang’s daughter, Caroline, who presents a soft, “hip” version of Rostang’s cuisine in this renovated old place. Pair that with a chilled carafe of Beaujolais and you’ve got yourself a memorable meal. Adding to the charm of this family bistro is its location on the Marche St. Honore, a pedestrian area and market square hidden between the Eglise St. Roch and Place Vendome. And let’s not forget the handcrafted absinthe cocktails, the namesake of this little gem. Though if sitting out on this picturesque terrace on a Parisian market square and pedestrian zone is your idea of a perfect end to a wonderful day, then rest assured there are plenty of cocktails and a solid wine list, too, to choose from for your down time.
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PAIN, VIN, FROMAGE – Paris
This cozy, hole-in-the-wall little restaurant next to Rue du Renard is a hidden gem of Paris, and the best place to eat a traditional fondue or a raquelette. Ok, not so “hidden”, it’s so notorious among gastronomy lovers that a reservation 2-3 days in advance is mandatory if you hope to be able to clog your arteries with cholesterol (but indeed a mouth-watering cholesterol).
The best choice is probably the “fondue savoyarde”, a classic with emmental, beaufort, comté, white wine, kirsch and spices: accompany it with a plate of mixed cured meat, and some boiled potatoes, and you will go out of there with a big smile on your face and a full belly. A good bottle of cider is necessary to gulp down all that cheese of course!
For dessert, they recommended the cheesecake, a house specialty, and I can guarantee it was definitela great piece of advice.
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LE CINQ – Paris
The restaurant Le Cinq opened in 2001, part of the luxury Georges V palace hotel, an art deco landmark dating back to 1928. This was where General Eisenhower chose to make his headquarters during the Allied liberation of Paris.
In October 2014 Christian Le Squer, who had earned three stars for a dozen consecutive years at Ledoyen, moved to Le Cinq. He has clearly been recruited with the mission of gaining a third star for the restaurant and in His mission he has succeed.
Stepping into Four Seasons George V hotel is like stepping into a luxury private château – chandeliers, lofty ceilings, beautiful tapestry, silken couches and massive ornate carpets. The stage set is an amalgam of styles: Art Deco, Neo-Classical and Moderne Louis XV and Louis XVI. This is a place of heavy bling: brocade carpets, Louis XVI chairs, crystal chandeliers, and gorgeous mahogany commodes. Add to that fantastical floral creations – a signature of the hotel – which stand almost as high as the potted palm trees. Jazz music from the hotel’s neighbouring lounge often wafts in, which completes the picture. Dining at Le Cinq is like dining at au grand couvert where you are the king and queen and the entire court seamlessly twist, twirl, pop, pour and lift to almost mechanical, ballet-like precision. We felt like Beauty and the Beast’s Belle in Lumière’s dining room – half-expecting the plates to start dancing.
We were greeted by champagne trolley with a selection of excellent champagnes. The meal began with a trio of canapés, most notably a jewel-like silver bubble that pops in your mouth releasing a burst of flavours. This one was so clean, refreshing and you can only appreciate the technical skills that would have gone in making these canapés. Bread was made in the kitchen from scratch, and we sampled the baguette and a multi-seed roll. These were very high quality, especially the baguette. Next was the amuse–bouche, after which the real meal begun. The starter was Le Squer’s signature dish, and one that shows off his technical acumen – ‘Parisian style’ gratinated onions. The menu description belied what followed: tiny, silk-shelled globes which popped in the mouth to reveal unctuous, syrupy onion soup, like liquid gold. Main course was lamb fillet and harissa flavoured lamb sausage served on a bed of lemon scented semolina. This was a very strong and rich dish. Cheese came from top Paris suppliers, and was in impeccable condition, a Camembert particularly impressive. A pre-dessert was necessary at this point to wash our mouth before the dessert. Grapefruit millefeuille was served in both preserved and natural form. This is another Ledoyen classic and was beautifully executed here, the interplay of textures and the balance between the sugar and the fruit acidity makes this dish a thing to behold. There was a layer of confit grapefruit, a layer of grapefruit infused with vanilla and lime, then grapefruit sorbet with a layer of sugar crisp with a touch of basil. Strawberry cake came with strawberries cooked in their own juices and strawberry foam. The fruit was of very high quality and the different textures worked very well together, the overall effect refreshing and enjoyable.Then arrives the dessert trolley, with delicate little sugar pastries that were simply superb, as well as a choice of different chocolate petit fours from an impressive selection presented on a trolley.
As we chomped on some fluffy, Tinkerbell-green absinthe marshmallow from the plentiful dessert trolley, Lumière’s words resounded: “Try the grey stuff – it’s delicious – don’t believe me, ask the dishes, they can sing, they can dance, for after all dear this is France – and the dinner here is never second best.” And quite right he was.
The price for 4 course may seem steep at the time of booking but remember you are paying for the entire experience and not just 4 courses.
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Destinations
Mappa mondo -
Hestra Ergo Grip Active Gloves
Hestra place the Ergo Grip Active within both their ‘Alpine Pro’ range and the ‘Outdoor’ category, which hints at their versatility. Ergonomic construction, supple and durable leather and the addition of a Gore Windstopper membrane ensure these gloves can be useful in almost any situation.
These gloves felt superb from the first try-on. The pre-curved fingers of the Ergo Grip construction are a large part in that. At first I thought this feature was not needed as I had never had gloves that were shaped to hold items easier and never felt like I needed. After using the gloves for a couple months now I am in love. The gloves hold a pre-curved shaped to allow your fingers to actively grip items with ease.
But it is the choice of materials that really makes the difference. The leather is soft and fine enough to feel like a second skin yet gives a surprising amount of grip as well. The Goat leather used on the palm of the glove has broken in nicely and now even moves better than before. Every stitch on the Ergo is in line and feels perfectly placed. The backs is made with a breathable but Windproof Gore-Tex lining to keep out the breeze. It allows for great movement and space for the knuckles to move as well. The index finger has a leather reinforcement patch, cut away to allow easy bending of the finger. This provides a little extra protection when using, for instance an ice-axe.
The surprise though is the very simple brushed polyester lining – the fine denier and soft touch go a long way to creating the feel of a dextrous but substantial glove. The lining is also a great indicator of the quality of construction; it maps to the outer flawlessly with no excess, baggy material, and in a close-fitting glove that is no mean feat.
The Ergo grip is not fully waterproof which is somewhat of a downside, for that you will have to spend another $60 for the Ergo Grip Outdry.
The gloves were tested hiking in the UK and canoeing in both Sweden and Canada in late-Autumn. What I didn’t expect was the degree of warmth these minimalist gloves are able to provide. The Windstopper no doubt has an effect (although placing it only on the back of the hand greatly aids breathability) but the brushed polyester is clearly punching above its weight in this regard. The gloves secure with a Velcro strap and a stretch collar for easy on and off. Using the Velcro was very easy and it gives a great feel when strapped up.
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Lake District
Day 1 - Carlisle
Small streets with semi-detached house surround the ancient hear of this small border town, still intact and fascinating behind the window shops of the pedestrian center. Neither chic nor cosmopolitan, Carlisle is typical with a strong sense of belonging, and the little nut splendid cathedral that constitutes its spiritual heart.
Start your tour of the town at the train station and admire its beautiful gothic Tudor facade, designed by Sir William Tite (architect of the Bank of England). Right behind you it’s impossible to miss the two oval towers (1810) that constitutes the entrance of the ancient citadel and that used to host a court and a jail. Pass between the towers and walk English St toward the mall. In the middle of the pedestrian street you will see the Carlisle cross (1682). The Tourist Office is here, hosted inside the Old Town Hall built in 1122, with a replica of the first victorian postal box of England, installed in Carlisle in 1853.
Make a right and enter the red and grey bricked cathedral.
The inside of the cathedral, made more splendid by the light that comes from the painted glass windows from the XIV century, will leave you speechless. Under the starry ceiling of the cathedral there is an mazing wooden choir and an organ with 200 pipes. We inquired about the timings of the services, and we attended a beautiful 45 minutes “concert” of organ and choir with music by Hendel.
Clustered around the cathedral there are some nice XVII century buildings such as the Old Registry (1699), the Deanery, and the Fratry, a XIII century canteen where the monks used to eat.
Turn left into Abbey St and pass the wrought iron gates of the Old Tullie House, a gallery and museum hosted in a 1689 palace. The lower floor hosts a roman exhibition, walking you through the roman conquer of Britannia and the building of Adrian’s Wall (that passes through Carlisle). On the upper floor the collections are dedicated to the social (the importance of the railway), archeological (Bonnie Prince Charlie and Robert the Bruce, the bandits at the scotch-british borders and the “curse” stone with the angry words of the bishop of Glasgow) and natural history (with the skeleton of a whale discovered on the western beach of Cumbria) of the region.
The walk of the Gallery ends in the actual Old House, with paintings from the early 1900 hanging over the walls.
A cafe just outside of the entrance can offer a nice refreshment.
Enter the Castle thought the XII century portcullis and admire the damp jails that hosted Mary, queen of Scotland. Walk along the walls of the Castle and breath in the medieval air.
We spent a couple of nights at Warwick Hall Bed and Breakfast.
Day 2 - Buttermere and Cockermouth
At 50 minutes by car from Carlisle, the little village of Bittermere is set in between peaks and valleys at the intersect of the lake Buttermere (literally “lake of the milk pastures”) and the wider Crummock Water. Even before reaching it, enjoy the view while driving on the solitary B5289 that will make you feel in a Harry Potter movie. Park along the main road, and look for the Syke House farm, from where departs a beautiful hike of 12 km that will take you around the Buttermere lake and up a hill to the Scale Force waterfall, the highest in Lake District.
Follow this small path (number 1 in the map) to the lakeshore path. Once at the lake turn left and follow the path all the way around the lakeshore: it will take you through the lakeside forest and through the Hassness tunnel util the end of the lake. Here the pathway rejoins the road (B5289), continue to follow it and turn right and follow the road to Gatesgarth Farm (number 4). Join the bridleway at the entrance to the farm and follow it across the valley bottom to Peggy’s Bridge. Cross the bridge and and turn right at the junction to join the Burtness Wood bridleway (number 5) that you will follow alongside the other shore of Buttermere lake until it splits at Horse Close just before the trees. Take the right branch by the lake and through the trees. There are lots of little bays which make ideal picnic stops in Burtness Woods. At the end of the lake, in case you are tired, turn right and cross the footbridge (number 7). The bridleway on the other side is followed back to Buttermere village.
But if you still have the energy ignore the footbridge and continue along the bridleway beside Buttermere Dubs and then alongside Crummock Water (number 9), the second and larger lake. The lake has quite a few little islands: you will encounter the two Home Island first, before seeing the green Scale Island.
Opposite Scales Island the bridleway leaves Crummock Water and turns west to climb towards Scales Beck. It then turns southwest and climbs more steeply to the foot of Scales Force. There is a footbridge below the waterfall, admire the impressive cascade but it may be spoilt by people diving in it and bathing. Take a higher level path leading back down across the fell in an easterly direction to rejoin the bridleway beside Crummock Water. Once on the bridleway, retrace your steps as far as Scales Bridge. Turn left and cross the bridge following the bridleway on the other side back into Buttermere village to finish the walk.
Reward yourself with a homemade ice cream at the Syke House Farm before taking the car towards Cockermouth.
The little town of Cokermouth, at the confluence of the river Derwent and Cocker, is the birthplace of the poet William Wordsworth. After the long hike, book a tour of Jennings Brewery. The brewery was founded by John Jennings in 1828 in the near village of Lorton and it was such huge success that there was a need for a larger malting and building to house larger fermenting vessels. The nearest market town, Cockermouth, was the ideal base for the expansion. The Jennings brothers acquired several smaller breweries and public houses over the years. Unfortunately, today there is no longer any Jennings connection with the business, and in 2005 the independent brewery was acquired by Marston’s PLC.
The 1-hour tour that starts in the bar walks you through the whole beer production. You will learn about the different qualities of malts that make the base of a good beer, you will taste the and understand how the toasted malt is responsible for the bitter taste of some beers. You will understand the technicality of “ale” versus “beer”, that lies in hops whose addition gives the nose to a beer. And finally you will witness the magic of yeast bubbling into the mix of malt and hops to transform it into beer. We strongly recommend taking the tour, it does not hurt that you will taste 3 of theirs half pints at the end.
Right in front of the brewery, Cockermouth Castle is rarely accessible to the public. It is privately owned and opened only during festivals. However the Caste is mainly in ruins, better walk 300 m and visit William Wordsworth’s birth house. It not only is a beautiful example of a XVIII century house, but also perfectly preserved with local volunteers reenacting as maids and cook.
Day 3 - Whinlatter Forest and Honister Pass
If your base is still Carlisle, drive 50 minutes towards Whinlatter forest. However, we suggest moving “base camp” to Keswick, much closer to the Forest. Whinlatter is home to stunning views, fantastic walks and exhilarating mountain biking, rare wildlife and adventure play. The Visitor Center opens at 10, and since your trek will start from here we suggest arriving at 10 am sharp so as to beat the crowd. The trek we did is an 11 km hike that will take you through differentent landscapes and will allow you to enjoy the Forest at its best.
Start from the Visitor Center, just out of it follow the green sign for the Heavy Side trail that you will follow through signposts 2,3 and 53. Heavy Side trail is one of contrasts. The beginning takes you through some of the mighty oaks adjacent to Masmill Beck. The trail then climbs through an area of coniferous trees which border the forest boundary along Heavy Sides where the views of Skiddaw and Bassenthwaite Lake awaits you.
Here at sign post 53 make a left and leave the forest behind to start climbing to 500 m through heather moorland the side of Lord’s Seat. From it’s top you enjoy the breathtaking views of Lake Bassenthwaite, then follow a small and hidden path that will lead you down the side and up to The Barf. A steep descent will take you back to signpost 21, tha you will follow to 7 and 8 to rejoin the Heavy Side Trail (54). Here the road is wide, keep following it until you see a blue sign on your left going down a hidden forest path.
This is Comb Back trail that winds through through glades, beside streams and landscape features. As the trail follows Comb Gill, keep a look out for the disused dam, which once provided a source of power for the mines deep in the mountain below.
Heavy Side trail 
Top of the Lord's Seat 
Towards The Barf 
Comb Back trail Coming back to the Visitor Center, replenish your energies with a nice lunch at the Cafe. And before leaving the car park, do not forget to pay, just by entering the plate number of your ride.
A 20 minutes drive will take you to Honister Pass, that has lots of adventures to ovver, such as “La via ferrata” if you really seek an adrenaline rush. We decided that it was worth enjoying the panorama around and visiting the last working slate mine of Englad. For those of you not familiar with slate, it is quite an expensive material that constitutes the skeleton of the rooftop of famous buildings such as Buckingham Palace and Saint Paul’s cathedral
Apart from the geological beauty of visiting the mine (zero for me, apparently this is the only volcanic slate in the world..), what is fascinating is having a real miner as the tour guide. And feeling the passion and the love of a Cumberland man for this local craft, and for the man who saved it, Mark Weis. When the mine closed in 1989, Mark mortgaged most of his possessions to buy it, to restore it as the principal mean of income for the region and as a touristic attraction. We owe to him the tour mine, the “via ferrata” and the fact that the best slate in the world is once again being produced. While he unfortunately was killed in a helicopter accident in 2011, he could not witness what the mine has now become: something unique that everyone visiting this area should enjoy.
We stayed at Borrowdale Gates Hotel, just 10 minutes by car from Keswick.
For a nigh of entertainment and culture, if you still have the energies, why not getting a couple of tickets for the famous Theatre By The Lake in Keswick? We watched “Ladykillers”, incredibly amusing and funny.
Day 4 - Keswick and Grasmere
From the little village of Borrowdale where we slept, Kenswick is just a 20 minutes drive. Start by visiting the stone circle of Castlerigg, east of the town. Certainly not as impressive as Stoneange, it is however impressive to think that those stones were laid there more than 2500 years ago. Not a lot is known about their function: the most credited hypothesis is that they represented a gathering location of cult or assembly. The visit here will not take too long, so jump back in your car and head towards Derwet Water Marina in Kenswick. Her eyou may hire a paddle, a kayak, a pedalo or better a row boat (like we did) and explore the lake with its plush islands. The rent is 18 pounds for 1 hour and 28 for 2 hours, we did the whole lake in 2 hours keeping a good pace.
Even if the rowing has built you an appetite, grab the car and drive 20 minutes to the lovely village of Grasmere. It cerainly deserves a visit for various reasons: beautiful to walk around, good tea houses to have a bite, and the village that stole Wordsworth’s heart. Now, we already learnt that he was born on Cockermouth and there he lived the years of his youth, but in Dove Cottage in Grasmere he spent his most productive years. And in the church of Saint Oswald he is buried. After lunch stop by the church cemetery to visit his tomb and the tombs of the family, then stroll around the small cottages of grey stones of Grasmere. Dove Cottage is just outside the village: when we visited it was closed for renovations but in 2020 it will open again. The last years of Wordsworth’s life were spent in the small villa of Rydal Mount that certainly deserves a stop: and what better excuse that to reach it through a hike?
William Wordsworth, known as much for his love of walking as for his poetry, described Rydal Water as “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found”. In his Guidebook to the Lakes he also suggested the best way to appreciate it is by ‘a foot-road passing behind Rydal Mount and under Nab Scar…very favourable to views of the lake and the vale…The horse road…under Loughrigg Fell, does justice to the beauties of this small mere, of which the traveller who keeps the high road is not at all aware.’
This 6 km trail takes the route Wordsworth suggested. But this landscape has more to show us than just ‘favourable views’. From rocks to reservoirs, burbling becks to bearing the dead, we’ll uncover the stories behind the place that Wordsworth called home.
Start from White Moss common car park off A591 between Rydal and Grasmere (1) and take the path uphill into White moss forest that lies between the lake of Rydal and Grasmere. Continue till the trails bends left and out of the trees (6), and walk it for the whole lenght, keeping Rydal lake to your left: only in the last part you will walk next to the lake. Keep following the paved road after the lake ends and take a left to a small bridge (5) to come back to A591 at the level of The Badger Pub. Here a steep road to your right will take you to Rydal Mount where you can rest for a visit and a coffee.
When you have admired the original furnitures, continue uphill till a trail on your left. Take it and walk trough caves and quarries for the whole length of the lake. At the end of the lake you will start hearing the sounds of traffic on A591 again (2): multiple small trails in the trees will bend on your left to take you back to the car park.
After a long deserved shower, we had an amazing dinner at Fellpack. Fellpack was born from the efforts of a bunch of guys )and gals) who love trekking and climbing. Its initial heart was inside a pub, where these friends got the idea of starting their own restaurant with a hiking theme. The result is a cozy restaurant with great beer selection and cocktails, and good and hearty food, served in their own hand made pottery dishes.
Day 5 - Helvellyn and Ambleside
At first glance the western side of the Helvellyn range may seem a little dull. They display slopes of a fairly uniform nature which when compared with the likes of Striding Edge and Swirral Edge on the other, eastern side, certainly lack that immediate, ‘in your face’ drama. Helvellyn though is a big mountain and the two sides of it are an integral part of why it is such a popular mountain. If you are into a total scrambling experience then there is nothing wrong with doing the edges. If on the other hand you want to savour the fantastic view down on to the edges from the summit, and if you just want to walk to get it rather than scramble then there is no finer way of doing it than approaching up the well-graded paths from the Thirlmere side.
The three highest peaks of the main ridge can quite comfortably be done by climbing the zig-zags of the Helvellyn Gill Path to Helvellyn’s summit. Then descending to Grisedale Tarn taking in Nethermost Pike and Dollywaggon Pike along the way. The best way back is down by Raise Beck, which is a little confined but soon leads down to Dunmail Raise from where you can make use of the permissive path to get back to the start.
Drive and park to the Swirls Car Park. Cross the footbridge over Helvellyn Gill at the back of the car park then follow the path South East alongside the gill to another footbridge. Cross the footbridge, then climb the steep zig-zags to a wall. Through the gate continue climbing to the remains of another wall. From here the path ascends the steep scree-covered shoulder South East directly to Helvellyn’s summit. It is quite a strenuous hike, 2 km with an ascent of 880 m. And it feels more like climbing stairs instead of walking, with all those stones along the path. At 925 m of altitute you will walk by the side of Lower Man and finally reach the summit of the Helvellyn.
From the summit of Helvellyn follow the main ridge path South. It is called Coast to Coast Walk, slightly easier but you will miss some beautiful peaks. The Walk forks at Swallow Scarth, take the left branch and follow it South, reaching the summit of Nethermost Pike, High Crag and finally to Dollywaggon Pike. From Dollywaggon Pike the path turns South East and reconnects to the Coast to Coast Walk. Continue along it and descend the steep zig-zags to Grisedale Tarn (small lake).
At the tarn turn West and follow the path across the low col to the head of Raise Beck. Now, this sound easy but you will have to find your own path till the head of the river, walking in mud and peat. Join the path on the South side of Raise Beck and follow it down towards Dunmail Raise. The path by the side of the river is mostly made of wet stones, so the downhill walk may be a bit tricky and slow.
At the end of the river you will start hearing the sound of cars and you will see the read. Just before the road turn right and follow the Permissive Path North to the footbridge over Birkside Beck. Cross the bridge and continue North along the path as it traverses the mountainside into the forestry plantations. This may as well be the most boring part of the walk, since the path is well paved and the nature all around is not super exciting. The path is followed North for just over 4km back to the car park
The whole loop is roun 15 km and took us 5 hours to complete, mainly because of the weather conditions.
Now, back in the car, drive 15 minutes to the little village of Ambleside. It is literally in the heart of the Lake District National Park, a small town loved by trekkers and walkers. Just so we do not loose sight of our friend Wordsworth, it was in Ambleside that he found his first job as a stamp distributor. On travel guides Ambleside is well known for the glass blowing shops and the small Bridge House (in the photo) were a family of 8 used to live. However, the glass blowing shops have now been replaced by shops for outdoor equipment, more common in Ambleside than pubs. Stop here if you need a to buy new clothes, shoes or gear.
We spent the night at Belmount Hall and had dinner at the Queen’s head pub.
Day 6 - Hawkshead, Hill Top, Fell Foot Park and Haverthwaite
Take a break from hiking and exploring nature and dedicate this day like we did to get to know better some pf the “celebrities” of the Lake District.
First stop, Hawkshead, enchanting village with charming cottages and the Beatrix Potter Gallery, dedicated to the drawings of one of the most famous children’s books author. The house that hosts the Gallery was the office of solicitors WH Heelis & Son. Beatrix met William Heelis here as he helped her with land purchases in the region, and in 1913 they married. The upper floor hosts various original drawing of her books, that are showcased here only for one year before being replaced by new ones.
Just outside of the Gallery, stop by the Hawkshead Relish Company to purchase some artisanal jams, and rest for a cup of coffee at KITTchen, a cat bar next door. If you feel like a short walk, stroll down the path towards Esthwaite Water, the nearby private lake. We did not rent a boat or stop for fishing, but only spent some time to take pictures and admire the landscape. Jump back in your car for the next Beatrix Potter’s stop: Hill Top was the house that she purchased with the money earned from the selling of her first book Peter Rabbit. It’s a XVII century farm with a beautiful garden of flowers, plants and vegetables which is still kept as Beatrix wanted. While roaming the rooms, her readers will recognize objects and corners that populated some of her stories like the Tailor of Glouchester and The story of Samuel Whiskers.
Esthmaite Water 
Hill Top 
Felle Foot Park A 15 minutes drive will take you to Fell Foot Park, a victorian garden with wide meadows on the south shore of the Windermere lake. We grabbed a quick bite at the bar in front of the lake, before taing the ferry to the other side of the lake, landing at Lakeside. From Lakeside station, grab the historical train towards Haverthwaite, last stop of the day. The only reason to visit Haverthwaite is the Haverthwaite & Lakeside Railway. The station is on the A590. Once it was used to transport goods for the ferries in Windermere, but now thanks to train lovers it runs between Haverthwaite and Lakeside, along the Leven river. Take some time to admire the 1950s trains and locomotives.
Day 7 - Grizdale Forest Park and Brantwood
The Silurian Trail is named after the geological time period in which the forests characteristic grey slate and shale rocks were formed. It is the ultimate walk, a 19 km trail that takes you down one side of the Grizedale valley and back up the other, passing many of the sculptures along the way, as well as some of the best views in the forest. It includes the summit of Carron Crag, the highest point in the forest.
Start from the parking lot (A), get the trail between the pointy building and the parkings. The first km climbs into a conifer tree, then separates from the white trail (B) and transforms into a gravel trail that slowly climbs for 3-4 km. This part can be slightly boring but soon (C) the trail dives into the forest in a steep rock-bottom walk that can be quite challenging. After a couple of kms the trail opens up (D) and the walk becomes more pleasant. Once you reach the parking lot (E), the trail connects with the local road and you will coast a couple of farms before turning left near the Force Back stream: take the white and green trail (F) until it separates. From that point on the green trail climbs, gently at first along the fields then more steeply inside the forest to the base of the Carrion Craig (G). The ascent of the Craig is not particularly challenging at it will reward you with a breathtaking view on the valley. The last portion of the trail (H) cuts through the forest and takes you back to the visitor center.
After a good lunch at the Grizdale Cafe, a 10 minutes car ride will take you to Brantwood and John Ruskin’s house. Ruskin was a poet, a writer, an art critic, but most importantly he was a thinker. The first “socialist” in the english history, despite being born in a rich family he understood the horrible conditions of the working class and theorized minimum wages, a social security and free education for everyone. The house is a beautiful example of a Victorian residence, kept exactly as it was, and the acres of gardens (seven) around make a nice exploration (even if non great on the legs after 19 km). Some gossip about Ruskin’s impotence, his marriage annulment and love for a girl 25 years younger than him can be learnt in the drawing room…
Day 8 - Coniston
We spent the nigh in Coniston, it is an enchanting little village with what we believe is the most beautiful of the lakes of the National Park. Also, it is dominated by the Old Man of Coniston, the last peak of hour trekking vacation. The walk that we planned to conquer it follows a circular route from a parking area on Walna Scar road, near Coniston in the Lake District. It sets off in a westerly direction along Walna Scar road itself, which is now a track, before turning northwards to start the real climbing over Brown Pike, Buck Pike and Dow Crag. The walk drops down to Goat’s Hawse before heading to the summit of the Old Man of Coniston, known by many as Coniston Old Man. From the summit there are excellent panoramic views of all surrounding hills and fells, from Black Combe around to the Pennines taking in the Scafell group to the North and as far as the Isle of Man to the West, along with Blind Tarn and Goat’s Water below. From the summit, the walk zig-zags down to Low Water before returning to the parking area through the remains of a bygone era in this part of the Lakes – copper mining.
Drive out of Coniston up the steep Walna Scar road. As the road ends, pass though a gate and park in the large unmetalled parking area – the walk starts from here. From the parking area, head away from the gate in a Westerly direction and through the wooden waymarkers, to continue along the now unsurfaced Walna Scar Road. Keep on the track as it gently rises through the bracken and ignore a track that shortly heads off to the right. The track then rises more steeply before levelling out again. Over to the left Coniston Water comes in to view and the further you walk first Brown Pike and then Buck Pike come in to view ahead. The track then reaches some steps, which lead up to Goat’s water. Ignore these and continue along the track. Cross over the bridge and keep on the track as it starts to climb around Brown Pike. The track starts to climb more steeply and become rougher underfoot, before passing a small shelter. Shortly after this, the crest of the hill is reached and ahead can be seen Harter Fell and Ulpha Fell. On the brow of the hill, by a small cairn and a wooden sign, turn right off Walna Scar road (track) and follow the well defined gravel footpath as it starts to ‘zig-zag’ its way up towards the summit of Brown Pike. Upon reaching the summit of Brown Pike, pass the cairn and keep on in the same direction along the ridge towards Buck Pike. Down below to the right is Blind tarn and up on the hillside opposite the summit of the Old Man of Coniston can now be seen. Upon reaching Buck Pike, pass the summit cairn and continue on in the same direction towards Dow Crag. As Dow Crag is reached, there are some photogenic views down the steep gulleys to the right looking down on to Goat’s Water. Head on up the final rocky section to Dow Crag summit. From the summit continue on in the same direction to start the short descent towards Goat’s Hawse.
Across to the right, the path to be followed from Goat’s Hawse to the summit of the Old Man of Coniston can clearly be seen. Keep on the path past a cairn and head steadily down towards Goat’s Hawse. Once at Goat’s Hawse, start the climb up the hill ahead. There are two paths, but take the more distinct left hand one. Keep ascending along the wide stony path, passing many small and larger cairns along the way. About 700m on from Goat’s Hawse, the summit cairn comes in to view ahead. Down to the left now the path home can be seen ‘zig-zagging’ down towards Low Water. Continue on the final few metres to the summit cairn. Pass the summit cairn and continue on in the same direction. The path initially starts to gently descend with views of Coniston and Coniston Water straight ahead. The path then swings around to the left to start its steeper ‘zig-zag’ descent towards Low Water below. Keep on the path down to the side of Low Water. As the far end of Low Water is reached, the path splits with the left hand fork heading to the water’s edge. Ignore this and follow the path around to the right, away from the water. The stony path heads between rocky outcrops in the direction of Coniston Water. Shortly afterwards the first signs of disused quarries can be seen. The path passes by small heaps of slate / rocks and the remains of old quarry buildings. Keep to the main path as you descend by the buildings. Once through the mining area keep descending on the path in the general direction of Coniston Water. As the path swings around to the left, ahead now can be seen a path junction. Over to the right the car parking area can be seen. At the path junction, keep on the main path following it around to the right. The path, now on a much more gentle descent, winds its way through a few small rocky outcrops and then heads again in the general direction of Coniston Water. The car parking area soon comes back in to view ahead. Continue back along the path the final few metres to the car parking area.
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A TRAVESSA – Lisbon
Its lovely location in a former convent dating back to 1653, the Convento das Bernardes, which has been carefully restored to its original 17th century splendor is just one of the trump cards of this Luso-Belgian restaurant. Chef Nuno Coelho’s insistence on using seasonal ingredients is one reason why the cuisine at this historic and wonderfully beguiling restaurant is so highly regarded. Another is the fact that much of it is sourced locally. But what really sets A Travessa apart is Coelho’s inventiveness in the kitchen. Diners here are treated to a menu of rare quality, a list of cuisine that melds traditional Portuguese cooking with the rich textured flavours of a northern European recipe book.
Meals begin with a selection of at least eight starters, including the restaurant’s famous “black pork secrets” and scrambled egg with wild mushrooms. Meat mains are superb, and come accompanied by a selection of separately plated sides such as spinach and turnip purees and oven-baked potatoes.
The interior is inviting and, on warm days, you can sit at tables set out in the old convent’s courtyard. We went by taxy but if parking is a puzzle in the narrow streets of the old fishermen’s neighborhood of Madragoa, the restaurant has an arrangement with the Largo Vitorino Damásio car park in Santos (with transfer service, no fee). Call to be picked up in the restaurant’s van.
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100 MANEIRAS – Lisbon
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Lisbon
Day 1 - Alfama, Castelo and Graça
Start your day at the Confeitaria Nacional in Praça da Figueira. Founded in 1829, its egg and almond tarts, macarons and pasteis de nata, accompanied by a coffee will give you the energy for your up and down walk around Lisbon.
Turn left in Rua da Correeiros and walk its length to reach Praça do Comercio: just think that in the past whoever came to Europe by sea was passing through here and this will explain the feeling that the square with its triumphal arc still is the access gate to the city. Actually the triumphal arc was built in 1755 after the earthquake that nearly destroyed Lisbon; it hosts statues of Vasco de Gama and the Marquis of Pombal, two historical figures that contributed to making Lisbon the great city that it was.
Walking the full length of Praça do Comercio you will reach the shores of the Tago river. Either take a left and walk along the river, or head back to Rua de Alfandega and climb towards the “Se”, Lisbon cathedral. It represents one of the symbols of the city and it does look like a fortress. It was built in 1150 on the same site were a mosque had been destroyed once the christians freed the city from the arabs. The massive and stern facade does not reflect the quiet ribbed vault inside. Despite having very nice hand-painted rose windows, we found the church rather gloomy and dark. To the left hand side of the church entrance, a baptismal font adorned with white and blue azulejos certainly deserves a stop.
Exiting the cathedral, take a left on Rua de Sao João de Praça, famous for the Fado places, little cafes with vault ceilings and building facades covered with azulejos. This small road will take you right in the heart of Alfama neighborhood where no directions are needed. It’s much nicer to get lost in the maze of the travessas.
Reach the Miradouro de Santa Luzia. (If you are lazy and lucky enough to find it, there is also an elevator that will take you there). This terrace covered in bouganville gives you an amazing view of the Alfama red rooftops and the river Tago. Admire not only the view but the mosaics of blue azulejos that surround the terrace and represent the siege of Lisbon. There are always street music players that will provide a nice soundtrack to the view.
Follow the indications for the Castel de Sao Jorge that is towering over the hill. The cue is not very encouraging, but if you have enough time to wait and visit castle, you can team up and while one of you waits in line the other can go and grab a pastel de bacalhau across the street. The castle was built in the 11th century by the arabs as the heart of their citadel. After that the crusaders and the Portuguese royals built around it and enlarged it. Enter and walk under the shade of the pine trees that line the bastions to enjoy the 360 view of the city. The castle is mostly ruins now, and there’s a lot of steep stairs to climb. The view deserves more than the actual archeological site, up to you to decide if it’s worth your time. Climb down the other side of the hill and grab a sandwich and a fresh juice at Nova Pombalina, a small neighborhood café in Rua do Comercio.
After lunch enjoy a stroll in the neighborhood of Baixa. Stop for an ice cream at Fragoleto in Rua da Prata 61, check out the vintage boutique Outra Face da Lua in Rua Assunçao 22, buy some sardinhas at the historical 30’s Coserveira de Lisboa whose shelves are filled with canned fish with a retro design. Once you’ve closed the loop and you find yourself again in Plaça da Figueira, stop at A Ginjinha. You will be greeted by the stern look of Antonio Espinheira, a Galician man who in the 1800’s made the experiment of letting cherries ferment in brandy, adding sugar, water and cinnamon. The experiment was very successful since people are still lining up while the owners keeps on filling glasses of ginjinha.
At night, enjoy the atmosphere of a dinner set in an old convent with a reservation at restaurant “A Travessa“.
Day 2 - Tram 28, Estrela, Chiado
Start your day with a ride through the city’s neighborhoods on tram number 28. We boarded in in Praça Martin Moniz, but here the queue is quite discouraging: we ended up waiting 40 minutes in line. A better alternative would be to wait for it to arrive along the narrow roads of Graça. You can buy the tickets on board but it will be cheaper to use the metro card. There is a reason why this ride is a must for most of the tourists: during the 40 minutes to Campo Orique the old, rickety tram climbs the streets of Graça with the clothes hanging so close to the tram windows you can nearly touch them, then goes down in Alfama showing the red rooftops and the Se cathedral, crosses the Baixa to climb again towards the elegant Praça Luis de Camoes. After the tram passes the Calçada de Estrela with the pastel-color azulejos, get out in front of the white dome and towers of the neoclassical Basilica de Estrela.
A quick stop inside this church will reveal an inside decorated with black and pink marble. The church was commissioned in 1790 by Maria I as a thank you for having had a male heir. Her black marble tomb is on the right side of the altar. Take a stroll in the Jardim de Estrela just in front of the church: the trails under the pine trees and the palms offer a nice repair from the summer heat, or as in our case from the spring drizzle. Out of the Jardim take a left and travel backwards the same route of the tram 28 to reach the neoclassical Palacio da Assembleia da Republica, that houses the Portuguese parliament. The building that looks like a greek temple with the columns and the statues, lies on the ruins of a benedictin monastery.
Time for a lunch break! Nearby you will find O Cocho, an Alentejana gastronomy (Alentejo, literaly “beyond the river”, is a geographical and cultural region in the south of Portugal that is famous for its olives and traditional sausages) that serves small bites and tapas for lunch. The two owners, despite not being super talkative, show the love for their region in the way they present the products and in the choice of the name: a “cocho” is a traditional cork bowl from Alentejo used to drink water.
A short but steep walk towards the botanical garden then down the road will take you at the base of the Elevador da Gloria: this cable car, running since 1885 and taking people from Praça dos Restauradores to Rua Sao Pedro de Alcantara, is unfortunately besmirched with graffiti, and the 350 m ride is not really worth it. Much better to walk beside it taking pictures till you reach the top of the steep Calçada da Gloria and the Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara. The panorama from this terrace is not as breathtaking as others.
While leaving the Miradouro towards the neighborhood of Chiado, stop by the Igreja Sao Roque to admire the contrast between the stern facade and the gilded inside, adorned with azulejos and marble.
With your back to the church portal, take the road to your left and walk down towards the Convento do Carmo that will really give you an idea of what happened to Lisbon in 1755. In the early 1700 Lisbon was at its height, flourishing through the commerce of silk, spices and the gold coming from Brazil. The on the morning of All saints day in 1755 three major earthquakes, followed by a fire and a tsunami razed the city to the ground. The Convent, founded by the carmelitans in 1389, crumbled down as well, killing the believers that were attending the Mass. After a short attempt to rebuild it, it was left as it was, with the arches and the columns forming a skeleton under the sky. The nave is disseminated of broken pieces of the original church, while the chapels host the Archeological museum.
Just a 1-minute walk from the Convent, Fabulas (Calçada Nova de Sao Francisco 14) with its exposed stones, the trembling flame lights of the candles and the hidden corners offers a very relax environment to recharge your batteries with a coffee and a piece of cake. If the weather permits it, sit in the inner garden, that we missed all together. Follow Rua do Loreto and do not miss on your left hand side the arrival of the Elevador da Bica that since 1892 climbs Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo. After Rua da Bica, a small street on your left will take you to the Miradouro de Santa Catarina: we had great expectations for this terrace that promised a vertiginous view of the city, but the scaffolds that were covering it (at the time) left us very disappointed. We were more fascinated by the Pharmacy museum and it’s garden bar than by the view.
Day 3 - Belem
A stroll in the neighborhood of Belem will make you travel back in time the era of the geographical discoveries of Portugal during the 15th and 16th Century when explorers such as Vasco da Gama and Magellano were sailing away towards distant lands filled with gold and spices and Portugal was but a drop in the imperial ocean of Manuel I.
From Praça de Figueira take tram number 15 that in 30 minutes will take you to Belem. If you are early enough or if you feel like facing a queue, stand in line at the Antiga Confeitaria de Belem that since 1837 bakes fresh pasteis de nata. They are still sometimes called pasteis de Belem because they were first baked in a sugar factory next to the Mosteiro in Belem.
Start your tour of this suburb of Lisbon from the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. The Monastery was built in 1501 by order of king Manuel I to celebrate Vasco da Gama discovery of the sea routes for India. It housed the ecclesiastical order of San Jeronimos whose spiritual duty was to pray for the sailors. The order disappeared in 1833 and the Monastery was used as a school and orphanage until 1940. The tickets for the Monastery are easily purchased at the center of the Monastery with automatic machines, while the main entrance is by the side of the Monastery. Before showing your ticket turn right and enter the Church.
The first thing that captures the attention are the massive columns that support the stone ceiling. Follow the path by the right side of the church, pass the altar and stop at the sacristy. The single central massive column that radiates towards the ceiling like a palm tree branching toward the four corners to support the ceiling and the wooden drawers definitely deserve the 1.50 euro of admission.
Out of the Church starts the visit at the actual Monastery. The cloister is built with lighter stones compared to the Church: walk around the lower level to admire the arches and the columns splendidly decorated with leaves and creepers. Before climbing the stairs to the upper cloister level, stop to visit the refectory, whose walls are covered with religious azulejos, and the capital room, with the tomb of the the Portuguese historian Herculano. Once on the upper level of the cloister pay attention to the gargoyles overlooking the central garden.
You can enjoy a walk and the best view of the Monastery from the Praça do Imperio. Crossing the square towards the river it’s impossible not to notice a white stone monument of a caravel. The Padrao dos Descobrimentos was built in 1960 to celebrate the 5th century anniversary of Henry the Navigator; it’s a 52 meters sculpture picturing all the famous Portuguese explorers. There is an elevator inside that can take you to the top, but you can get the same view from the Belem Tower.
We suggest a lunch stop at “2 a 8”, nice modern bistro were the petiscos (tapas) are mouthwatering and well presented. But leave some space for the delicious chocolate mousse.
Continue you walk along the river taking a right towards the Belem Tower; this represents a symbol of the Age of Naval Discoveries. It was built in 1515 to defend Lisbon’s port. The queue outside can be quite long as they admit only 120 people inside at a time. Once inside your IQ will be challenged by the complicated system of traffic lights that regulates the flow of people going up and down the 93 steps of the spiral staircase. Once you see the green light you will have precisely 2’30” to go up. If you are not fast enough, at the end of that time frame you will hear an hissing sound prompting you to leave immediately the staircase, up to you how… If you get to the top the view is definitely worth it. Enjoy it…!
Not everybody is aware of a curiosity about the Belem Tower. When you are walking out of the tower, turn left and under the western tower you will see the statue of a rhino: this is the portrait of an Indian rhino that was donated by Manuel I to the Pope in 1515 (but who never reached Rome since he drowned with the boat that was carrying him…).
As a final stop of your day in Belem, we suggest a visit tu Museu Colecçao Berardo.With its collection of modern and contemporary art, paintings from Picasso, Pollock, Miro, Warhol, it is simply unbelievable how this museum is not part of the touristic itineraries at all. Granted, not everybody can appreciate whatever art happened after 1960, especially if it’s a video of a man blowing a ballon with the nose, but the first floor with art of the early 1900 is definitley worth the 5 euros of the ticket.
At night pamper yourselves with a 10-courses set dinner at the (future Michelin-starred trust us) “100 Maneiras” restaurant.
Day 4 - Markets and what else
It’s always a good idea to keep one day “unplanned” for some last minute souvenirs shopping, for those things that you would do only once you’ve seen everything else. If you have kids (we don’t have any, but it was still hard to convince F not to go…) you can plan a visit to the Ocenario, located just outside the city and easily reachable by metro. Close by there is the Parque de Nacoes, that was built for the 1998 EXPO, and the Vasco da Gama bridge, the longest pedestrian bridge.
We decided (actually E did, since it was her birthday) to go to the Mercado de Ribeira, now known also as Timeout Market. Here you will find every food you ever wished for, and more. All the famous restaurants, cafes and pastry shops in town have their little shop in the market. Even the Michelin-starred restaurants in Lisbon have their stalls! If it’s time for a late breakfast grab a pastel de nata at Manteigaria, if too late for breakfast, choose among the delicious ham and cheese selection, the sardinhas, the pasteis de bacalhau and so on. If it’s a nice day outside, we suggest to do as we did, grab a little of everything, have it packed and head for a picnic to the Parque de Necesitades. The 714 bus (the stop is right behind the market) will take you there directly.
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ROSENSTEIN VENDEGLO – Budapest
Walking into Rosenstein, Budapest’s most revered Hungarian-Jewish restaurant, two distinct moods emerge. The crisp white tablecloths, chic stemware, dark wood furnishings, and immaculately dressed waiters exude fine-dining elegance. But other details—from the father-son chef duo to the time-honored weekly menu highlighting traditional Hungarian and Jewish meals—lend the familiar coziness of dinner at grandma’s house.
Striking a great balance between traditional and indulgent is the forte of owner-chef Tibor Rosenstein, and now his son and partner, Róbert. What he started as a tiny buffet in 1996 on a side street next to Keleti Railway station (and which is still in operation next to the restaurant today) has grown into one of the city’s finest restaurants, all thanks to his culinary expertise and entrepreneurial chops. Rosenstein’s menu is made up of Hungarian-Jewish specialties, from gulyás to lecsó (stewed peppers and tomatoes), and lamb knuckles with garlic hremzli (potato pancake) to goose leg with red cabbage. But it is his decadent take on comfort foods—such as töltött káposzta (stuffed cabbage) and Brassói aprópecsenye (a dish made up roasted pork, potatoes, garlic, and paprika)—that really stands out.
Hungary, with its robust soup, bread and meat traditions, has also infused its own flavors into the vibrant Jewish cuisine which has deep roots in Hungary, and is undergoing somewhat of a renaissance these days.
There are plenty of excellent dishes to try at Rosenstein—which has become somewhat of a pilgrimage spot for visitors to Budapest—including the matzo ball soup. But if you are there, you really cannot miss trying the sólet.
Sólet is the Hungarian take on the Jewish bean stew, cholent, a slow-baked bean stew which is prepared for the Sabbath. The local take, naturally, adds paprika, as well as onions, often boiled eggs, and meat. The type of meat added is largely dependent on the region, customs and wealth of the cook, and can include smoked pork, goose, or duck. At Rosenstein, the sophisticated sólet comes complete with stuffed goose neck, creamy roasted egg, and smoked brisket. It’s a hearty, wonderfully-prepared meal that not only deserves a pilgrimage but also clearly underlines the restaurant’s motto: everything is kosher that tastes good.
While the patriarch masterfully prepares classics, Tibor’s son Róbert helps bring the fusion fare into the 21st century. On the menu are modern variations of szalontüdő (lung stew), stewed veal with tarhonya (egg barley) and grilled chicken stuffed with goose liver. On the sweet end of the menu, there is madártej (floating islands), császármorzsa (emperor’s crumbs) and flódni, a traditional Jewish triple-layered pastry filled with ground walnuts, poppy seeds, and apples, slicked with homemade plum jam.