-
Lake District
Day 1 - Carlisle
Small streets with semi-detached house surround the ancient hear of this small border town, still intact and fascinating behind the window shops of the pedestrian center. Neither chic nor cosmopolitan, Carlisle is typical with a strong sense of belonging, and the little nut splendid cathedral that constitutes its spiritual heart.
Start your tour of the town at the train station and admire its beautiful gothic Tudor facade, designed by Sir William Tite (architect of the Bank of England). Right behind you it’s impossible to miss the two oval towers (1810) that constitutes the entrance of the ancient citadel and that used to host a court and a jail. Pass between the towers and walk English St toward the mall. In the middle of the pedestrian street you will see the Carlisle cross (1682). The Tourist Office is here, hosted inside the Old Town Hall built in 1122, with a replica of the first victorian postal box of England, installed in Carlisle in 1853.
Make a right and enter the red and grey bricked cathedral.
The inside of the cathedral, made more splendid by the light that comes from the painted glass windows from the XIV century, will leave you speechless. Under the starry ceiling of the cathedral there is an mazing wooden choir and an organ with 200 pipes. We inquired about the timings of the services, and we attended a beautiful 45 minutes “concert” of organ and choir with music by Hendel.
Clustered around the cathedral there are some nice XVII century buildings such as the Old Registry (1699), the Deanery, and the Fratry, a XIII century canteen where the monks used to eat.
Turn left into Abbey St and pass the wrought iron gates of the Old Tullie House, a gallery and museum hosted in a 1689 palace. The lower floor hosts a roman exhibition, walking you through the roman conquer of Britannia and the building of Adrian’s Wall (that passes through Carlisle). On the upper floor the collections are dedicated to the social (the importance of the railway), archeological (Bonnie Prince Charlie and Robert the Bruce, the bandits at the scotch-british borders and the “curse” stone with the angry words of the bishop of Glasgow) and natural history (with the skeleton of a whale discovered on the western beach of Cumbria) of the region.
The walk of the Gallery ends in the actual Old House, with paintings from the early 1900 hanging over the walls.
A cafe just outside of the entrance can offer a nice refreshment.
Enter the Castle thought the XII century portcullis and admire the damp jails that hosted Mary, queen of Scotland. Walk along the walls of the Castle and breath in the medieval air.
We spent a couple of nights at Warwick Hall Bed and Breakfast.
Day 2 - Buttermere and Cockermouth
At 50 minutes by car from Carlisle, the little village of Bittermere is set in between peaks and valleys at the intersect of the lake Buttermere (literally “lake of the milk pastures”) and the wider Crummock Water. Even before reaching it, enjoy the view while driving on the solitary B5289 that will make you feel in a Harry Potter movie. Park along the main road, and look for the Syke House farm, from where departs a beautiful hike of 12 km that will take you around the Buttermere lake and up a hill to the Scale Force waterfall, the highest in Lake District.
Follow this small path (number 1 in the map) to the lakeshore path. Once at the lake turn left and follow the path all the way around the lakeshore: it will take you through the lakeside forest and through the Hassness tunnel util the end of the lake. Here the pathway rejoins the road (B5289), continue to follow it and turn right and follow the road to Gatesgarth Farm (number 4). Join the bridleway at the entrance to the farm and follow it across the valley bottom to Peggy’s Bridge. Cross the bridge and and turn right at the junction to join the Burtness Wood bridleway (number 5) that you will follow alongside the other shore of Buttermere lake until it splits at Horse Close just before the trees. Take the right branch by the lake and through the trees. There are lots of little bays which make ideal picnic stops in Burtness Woods. At the end of the lake, in case you are tired, turn right and cross the footbridge (number 7). The bridleway on the other side is followed back to Buttermere village.
But if you still have the energy ignore the footbridge and continue along the bridleway beside Buttermere Dubs and then alongside Crummock Water (number 9), the second and larger lake. The lake has quite a few little islands: you will encounter the two Home Island first, before seeing the green Scale Island.
Opposite Scales Island the bridleway leaves Crummock Water and turns west to climb towards Scales Beck. It then turns southwest and climbs more steeply to the foot of Scales Force. There is a footbridge below the waterfall, admire the impressive cascade but it may be spoilt by people diving in it and bathing. Take a higher level path leading back down across the fell in an easterly direction to rejoin the bridleway beside Crummock Water. Once on the bridleway, retrace your steps as far as Scales Bridge. Turn left and cross the bridge following the bridleway on the other side back into Buttermere village to finish the walk.
Reward yourself with a homemade ice cream at the Syke House Farm before taking the car towards Cockermouth.
The little town of Cokermouth, at the confluence of the river Derwent and Cocker, is the birthplace of the poet William Wordsworth. After the long hike, book a tour of Jennings Brewery. The brewery was founded by John Jennings in 1828 in the near village of Lorton and it was such huge success that there was a need for a larger malting and building to house larger fermenting vessels. The nearest market town, Cockermouth, was the ideal base for the expansion. The Jennings brothers acquired several smaller breweries and public houses over the years. Unfortunately, today there is no longer any Jennings connection with the business, and in 2005 the independent brewery was acquired by Marston’s PLC.
The 1-hour tour that starts in the bar walks you through the whole beer production. You will learn about the different qualities of malts that make the base of a good beer, you will taste the and understand how the toasted malt is responsible for the bitter taste of some beers. You will understand the technicality of “ale” versus “beer”, that lies in hops whose addition gives the nose to a beer. And finally you will witness the magic of yeast bubbling into the mix of malt and hops to transform it into beer. We strongly recommend taking the tour, it does not hurt that you will taste 3 of theirs half pints at the end.
Right in front of the brewery, Cockermouth Castle is rarely accessible to the public. It is privately owned and opened only during festivals. However the Caste is mainly in ruins, better walk 300 m and visit William Wordsworth’s birth house. It not only is a beautiful example of a XVIII century house, but also perfectly preserved with local volunteers reenacting as maids and cook.
Day 3 - Whinlatter Forest and Honister Pass
If your base is still Carlisle, drive 50 minutes towards Whinlatter forest. However, we suggest moving “base camp” to Keswick, much closer to the Forest. Whinlatter is home to stunning views, fantastic walks and exhilarating mountain biking, rare wildlife and adventure play. The Visitor Center opens at 10, and since your trek will start from here we suggest arriving at 10 am sharp so as to beat the crowd. The trek we did is an 11 km hike that will take you through differentent landscapes and will allow you to enjoy the Forest at its best.
Start from the Visitor Center, just out of it follow the green sign for the Heavy Side trail that you will follow through signposts 2,3 and 53. Heavy Side trail is one of contrasts. The beginning takes you through some of the mighty oaks adjacent to Masmill Beck. The trail then climbs through an area of coniferous trees which border the forest boundary along Heavy Sides where the views of Skiddaw and Bassenthwaite Lake awaits you.
Here at sign post 53 make a left and leave the forest behind to start climbing to 500 m through heather moorland the side of Lord’s Seat. From it’s top you enjoy the breathtaking views of Lake Bassenthwaite, then follow a small and hidden path that will lead you down the side and up to The Barf. A steep descent will take you back to signpost 21, tha you will follow to 7 and 8 to rejoin the Heavy Side Trail (54). Here the road is wide, keep following it until you see a blue sign on your left going down a hidden forest path.
This is Comb Back trail that winds through through glades, beside streams and landscape features. As the trail follows Comb Gill, keep a look out for the disused dam, which once provided a source of power for the mines deep in the mountain below.
Heavy Side trail 
Top of the Lord's Seat 
Towards The Barf 
Comb Back trail Coming back to the Visitor Center, replenish your energies with a nice lunch at the Cafe. And before leaving the car park, do not forget to pay, just by entering the plate number of your ride.
A 20 minutes drive will take you to Honister Pass, that has lots of adventures to ovver, such as “La via ferrata” if you really seek an adrenaline rush. We decided that it was worth enjoying the panorama around and visiting the last working slate mine of Englad. For those of you not familiar with slate, it is quite an expensive material that constitutes the skeleton of the rooftop of famous buildings such as Buckingham Palace and Saint Paul’s cathedral
Apart from the geological beauty of visiting the mine (zero for me, apparently this is the only volcanic slate in the world..), what is fascinating is having a real miner as the tour guide. And feeling the passion and the love of a Cumberland man for this local craft, and for the man who saved it, Mark Weis. When the mine closed in 1989, Mark mortgaged most of his possessions to buy it, to restore it as the principal mean of income for the region and as a touristic attraction. We owe to him the tour mine, the “via ferrata” and the fact that the best slate in the world is once again being produced. While he unfortunately was killed in a helicopter accident in 2011, he could not witness what the mine has now become: something unique that everyone visiting this area should enjoy.
We stayed at Borrowdale Gates Hotel, just 10 minutes by car from Keswick.
For a nigh of entertainment and culture, if you still have the energies, why not getting a couple of tickets for the famous Theatre By The Lake in Keswick? We watched “Ladykillers”, incredibly amusing and funny.
Day 4 - Keswick and Grasmere
From the little village of Borrowdale where we slept, Kenswick is just a 20 minutes drive. Start by visiting the stone circle of Castlerigg, east of the town. Certainly not as impressive as Stoneange, it is however impressive to think that those stones were laid there more than 2500 years ago. Not a lot is known about their function: the most credited hypothesis is that they represented a gathering location of cult or assembly. The visit here will not take too long, so jump back in your car and head towards Derwet Water Marina in Kenswick. Her eyou may hire a paddle, a kayak, a pedalo or better a row boat (like we did) and explore the lake with its plush islands. The rent is 18 pounds for 1 hour and 28 for 2 hours, we did the whole lake in 2 hours keeping a good pace.
Even if the rowing has built you an appetite, grab the car and drive 20 minutes to the lovely village of Grasmere. It cerainly deserves a visit for various reasons: beautiful to walk around, good tea houses to have a bite, and the village that stole Wordsworth’s heart. Now, we already learnt that he was born on Cockermouth and there he lived the years of his youth, but in Dove Cottage in Grasmere he spent his most productive years. And in the church of Saint Oswald he is buried. After lunch stop by the church cemetery to visit his tomb and the tombs of the family, then stroll around the small cottages of grey stones of Grasmere. Dove Cottage is just outside the village: when we visited it was closed for renovations but in 2020 it will open again. The last years of Wordsworth’s life were spent in the small villa of Rydal Mount that certainly deserves a stop: and what better excuse that to reach it through a hike?
William Wordsworth, known as much for his love of walking as for his poetry, described Rydal Water as “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found”. In his Guidebook to the Lakes he also suggested the best way to appreciate it is by ‘a foot-road passing behind Rydal Mount and under Nab Scar…very favourable to views of the lake and the vale…The horse road…under Loughrigg Fell, does justice to the beauties of this small mere, of which the traveller who keeps the high road is not at all aware.’
This 6 km trail takes the route Wordsworth suggested. But this landscape has more to show us than just ‘favourable views’. From rocks to reservoirs, burbling becks to bearing the dead, we’ll uncover the stories behind the place that Wordsworth called home.
Start from White Moss common car park off A591 between Rydal and Grasmere (1) and take the path uphill into White moss forest that lies between the lake of Rydal and Grasmere. Continue till the trails bends left and out of the trees (6), and walk it for the whole lenght, keeping Rydal lake to your left: only in the last part you will walk next to the lake. Keep following the paved road after the lake ends and take a left to a small bridge (5) to come back to A591 at the level of The Badger Pub. Here a steep road to your right will take you to Rydal Mount where you can rest for a visit and a coffee.
When you have admired the original furnitures, continue uphill till a trail on your left. Take it and walk trough caves and quarries for the whole length of the lake. At the end of the lake you will start hearing the sounds of traffic on A591 again (2): multiple small trails in the trees will bend on your left to take you back to the car park.
After a long deserved shower, we had an amazing dinner at Fellpack. Fellpack was born from the efforts of a bunch of guys )and gals) who love trekking and climbing. Its initial heart was inside a pub, where these friends got the idea of starting their own restaurant with a hiking theme. The result is a cozy restaurant with great beer selection and cocktails, and good and hearty food, served in their own hand made pottery dishes.
Day 5 - Helvellyn and Ambleside
At first glance the western side of the Helvellyn range may seem a little dull. They display slopes of a fairly uniform nature which when compared with the likes of Striding Edge and Swirral Edge on the other, eastern side, certainly lack that immediate, ‘in your face’ drama. Helvellyn though is a big mountain and the two sides of it are an integral part of why it is such a popular mountain. If you are into a total scrambling experience then there is nothing wrong with doing the edges. If on the other hand you want to savour the fantastic view down on to the edges from the summit, and if you just want to walk to get it rather than scramble then there is no finer way of doing it than approaching up the well-graded paths from the Thirlmere side.
The three highest peaks of the main ridge can quite comfortably be done by climbing the zig-zags of the Helvellyn Gill Path to Helvellyn’s summit. Then descending to Grisedale Tarn taking in Nethermost Pike and Dollywaggon Pike along the way. The best way back is down by Raise Beck, which is a little confined but soon leads down to Dunmail Raise from where you can make use of the permissive path to get back to the start.
Drive and park to the Swirls Car Park. Cross the footbridge over Helvellyn Gill at the back of the car park then follow the path South East alongside the gill to another footbridge. Cross the footbridge, then climb the steep zig-zags to a wall. Through the gate continue climbing to the remains of another wall. From here the path ascends the steep scree-covered shoulder South East directly to Helvellyn’s summit. It is quite a strenuous hike, 2 km with an ascent of 880 m. And it feels more like climbing stairs instead of walking, with all those stones along the path. At 925 m of altitute you will walk by the side of Lower Man and finally reach the summit of the Helvellyn.
From the summit of Helvellyn follow the main ridge path South. It is called Coast to Coast Walk, slightly easier but you will miss some beautiful peaks. The Walk forks at Swallow Scarth, take the left branch and follow it South, reaching the summit of Nethermost Pike, High Crag and finally to Dollywaggon Pike. From Dollywaggon Pike the path turns South East and reconnects to the Coast to Coast Walk. Continue along it and descend the steep zig-zags to Grisedale Tarn (small lake).
At the tarn turn West and follow the path across the low col to the head of Raise Beck. Now, this sound easy but you will have to find your own path till the head of the river, walking in mud and peat. Join the path on the South side of Raise Beck and follow it down towards Dunmail Raise. The path by the side of the river is mostly made of wet stones, so the downhill walk may be a bit tricky and slow.
At the end of the river you will start hearing the sound of cars and you will see the read. Just before the road turn right and follow the Permissive Path North to the footbridge over Birkside Beck. Cross the bridge and continue North along the path as it traverses the mountainside into the forestry plantations. This may as well be the most boring part of the walk, since the path is well paved and the nature all around is not super exciting. The path is followed North for just over 4km back to the car park
The whole loop is roun 15 km and took us 5 hours to complete, mainly because of the weather conditions.
Now, back in the car, drive 15 minutes to the little village of Ambleside. It is literally in the heart of the Lake District National Park, a small town loved by trekkers and walkers. Just so we do not loose sight of our friend Wordsworth, it was in Ambleside that he found his first job as a stamp distributor. On travel guides Ambleside is well known for the glass blowing shops and the small Bridge House (in the photo) were a family of 8 used to live. However, the glass blowing shops have now been replaced by shops for outdoor equipment, more common in Ambleside than pubs. Stop here if you need a to buy new clothes, shoes or gear.
We spent the night at Belmount Hall and had dinner at the Queen’s head pub.
Day 6 - Hawkshead, Hill Top, Fell Foot Park and Haverthwaite
Take a break from hiking and exploring nature and dedicate this day like we did to get to know better some pf the “celebrities” of the Lake District.
First stop, Hawkshead, enchanting village with charming cottages and the Beatrix Potter Gallery, dedicated to the drawings of one of the most famous children’s books author. The house that hosts the Gallery was the office of solicitors WH Heelis & Son. Beatrix met William Heelis here as he helped her with land purchases in the region, and in 1913 they married. The upper floor hosts various original drawing of her books, that are showcased here only for one year before being replaced by new ones.
PreviousNextJust outside of the Gallery, stop by the Hawkshead Relish Company to purchase some artisanal jams, and rest for a cup of coffee at KITTchen, a cat bar next door. If you feel like a short walk, stroll down the path towards Esthwaite Water, the nearby private lake. We did not rent a boat or stop for fishing, but only spent some time to take pictures and admire the landscape. Jump back in your car for the next Beatrix Potter’s stop: Hill Top was the house that she purchased with the money earned from the selling of her first book Peter Rabbit. It’s a XVII century farm with a beautiful garden of flowers, plants and vegetables which is still kept as Beatrix wanted. While roaming the rooms, her readers will recognize objects and corners that populated some of her stories like the Tailor of Glouchester and The story of Samuel Whiskers.
Esthmaite Water 
Hill Top 
Felle Foot Park A 15 minutes drive will take you to Fell Foot Park, a victorian garden with wide meadows on the south shore of the Windermere lake. We grabbed a quick bite at the bar in front of the lake, before taing the ferry to the other side of the lake, landing at Lakeside. From Lakeside station, grab the historical train towards Haverthwaite, last stop of the day. The only reason to visit Haverthwaite is the Haverthwaite & Lakeside Railway. The station is on the A590. Once it was used to transport goods for the ferries in Windermere, but now thanks to train lovers it runs between Haverthwaite and Lakeside, along the Leven river. Take some time to admire the 1950s trains and locomotives.
Day 7 - Grizdale Forest Park and Brantwood
The Silurian Trail is named after the geological time period in which the forests characteristic grey slate and shale rocks were formed. It is the ultimate walk, a 19 km trail that takes you down one side of the Grizedale valley and back up the other, passing many of the sculptures along the way, as well as some of the best views in the forest. It includes the summit of Carron Crag, the highest point in the forest.
Start from the parking lot (A), get the trail between the pointy building and the parkings. The first km climbs into a conifer tree, then separates from the white trail (B) and transforms into a gravel trail that slowly climbs for 3-4 km. This part can be slightly boring but soon (C) the trail dives into the forest in a steep rock-bottom walk that can be quite challenging. After a couple of kms the trail opens up (D) and the walk becomes more pleasant. Once you reach the parking lot (E), the trail connects with the local road and you will coast a couple of farms before turning left near the Force Back stream: take the white and green trail (F) until it separates. From that point on the green trail climbs, gently at first along the fields then more steeply inside the forest to the base of the Carrion Craig (G). The ascent of the Craig is not particularly challenging at it will reward you with a breathtaking view on the valley. The last portion of the trail (H) cuts through the forest and takes you back to the visitor center.
After a good lunch at the Grizdale Cafe, a 10 minutes car ride will take you to Brantwood and John Ruskin’s house. Ruskin was a poet, a writer, an art critic, but most importantly he was a thinker. The first “socialist” in the english history, despite being born in a rich family he understood the horrible conditions of the working class and theorized minimum wages, a social security and free education for everyone. The house is a beautiful example of a Victorian residence, kept exactly as it was, and the acres of gardens (seven) around make a nice exploration (even if non great on the legs after 19 km). Some gossip about Ruskin’s impotence, his marriage annulment and love for a girl 25 years younger than him can be learnt in the drawing room…
Day 8 - Coniston
We spent the nigh in Coniston, it is an enchanting little village with what we believe is the most beautiful of the lakes of the National Park. Also, it is dominated by the Old Man of Coniston, the last peak of hour trekking vacation. The walk that we planned to conquer it follows a circular route from a parking area on Walna Scar road, near Coniston in the Lake District. It sets off in a westerly direction along Walna Scar road itself, which is now a track, before turning northwards to start the real climbing over Brown Pike, Buck Pike and Dow Crag. The walk drops down to Goat’s Hawse before heading to the summit of the Old Man of Coniston, known by many as Coniston Old Man. From the summit there are excellent panoramic views of all surrounding hills and fells, from Black Combe around to the Pennines taking in the Scafell group to the North and as far as the Isle of Man to the West, along with Blind Tarn and Goat’s Water below. From the summit, the walk zig-zags down to Low Water before returning to the parking area through the remains of a bygone era in this part of the Lakes – copper mining.
Drive out of Coniston up the steep Walna Scar road. As the road ends, pass though a gate and park in the large unmetalled parking area – the walk starts from here. From the parking area, head away from the gate in a Westerly direction and through the wooden waymarkers, to continue along the now unsurfaced Walna Scar Road. Keep on the track as it gently rises through the bracken and ignore a track that shortly heads off to the right. The track then rises more steeply before levelling out again. Over to the left Coniston Water comes in to view and the further you walk first Brown Pike and then Buck Pike come in to view ahead. The track then reaches some steps, which lead up to Goat’s water. Ignore these and continue along the track. Cross over the bridge and keep on the track as it starts to climb around Brown Pike. The track starts to climb more steeply and become rougher underfoot, before passing a small shelter. Shortly after this, the crest of the hill is reached and ahead can be seen Harter Fell and Ulpha Fell. On the brow of the hill, by a small cairn and a wooden sign, turn right off Walna Scar road (track) and follow the well defined gravel footpath as it starts to ‘zig-zag’ its way up towards the summit of Brown Pike. Upon reaching the summit of Brown Pike, pass the cairn and keep on in the same direction along the ridge towards Buck Pike. Down below to the right is Blind tarn and up on the hillside opposite the summit of the Old Man of Coniston can now be seen. Upon reaching Buck Pike, pass the summit cairn and continue on in the same direction towards Dow Crag. As Dow Crag is reached, there are some photogenic views down the steep gulleys to the right looking down on to Goat’s Water. Head on up the final rocky section to Dow Crag summit. From the summit continue on in the same direction to start the short descent towards Goat’s Hawse.
Across to the right, the path to be followed from Goat’s Hawse to the summit of the Old Man of Coniston can clearly be seen. Keep on the path past a cairn and head steadily down towards Goat’s Hawse. Once at Goat’s Hawse, start the climb up the hill ahead. There are two paths, but take the more distinct left hand one. Keep ascending along the wide stony path, passing many small and larger cairns along the way. About 700m on from Goat’s Hawse, the summit cairn comes in to view ahead. Down to the left now the path home can be seen ‘zig-zagging’ down towards Low Water. Continue on the final few metres to the summit cairn. Pass the summit cairn and continue on in the same direction. The path initially starts to gently descend with views of Coniston and Coniston Water straight ahead. The path then swings around to the left to start its steeper ‘zig-zag’ descent towards Low Water below. Keep on the path down to the side of Low Water. As the far end of Low Water is reached, the path splits with the left hand fork heading to the water’s edge. Ignore this and follow the path around to the right, away from the water. The stony path heads between rocky outcrops in the direction of Coniston Water. Shortly afterwards the first signs of disused quarries can be seen. The path passes by small heaps of slate / rocks and the remains of old quarry buildings. Keep to the main path as you descend by the buildings. Once through the mining area keep descending on the path in the general direction of Coniston Water. As the path swings around to the left, ahead now can be seen a path junction. Over to the right the car parking area can be seen. At the path junction, keep on the main path following it around to the right. The path, now on a much more gentle descent, winds its way through a few small rocky outcrops and then heads again in the general direction of Coniston Water. The car parking area soon comes back in to view ahead. Continue back along the path the final few metres to the car parking area.
-
A TRAVESSA – Lisbon
Its lovely location in a former convent dating back to 1653, the Convento das Bernardes, which has been carefully restored to its original 17th century splendor is just one of the trump cards of this Luso-Belgian restaurant. Chef Nuno Coelho’s insistence on using seasonal ingredients is one reason why the cuisine at this historic and wonderfully beguiling restaurant is so highly regarded. Another is the fact that much of it is sourced locally. But what really sets A Travessa apart is Coelho’s inventiveness in the kitchen. Diners here are treated to a menu of rare quality, a list of cuisine that melds traditional Portuguese cooking with the rich textured flavours of a northern European recipe book.
Meals begin with a selection of at least eight starters, including the restaurant’s famous “black pork secrets” and scrambled egg with wild mushrooms. Meat mains are superb, and come accompanied by a selection of separately plated sides such as spinach and turnip purees and oven-baked potatoes.
The interior is inviting and, on warm days, you can sit at tables set out in the old convent’s courtyard. We went by taxy but if parking is a puzzle in the narrow streets of the old fishermen’s neighborhood of Madragoa, the restaurant has an arrangement with the Largo Vitorino Damásio car park in Santos (with transfer service, no fee). Call to be picked up in the restaurant’s van.
-
100 MANEIRAS – Lisbon
PreviousNext -
Lisbon
Day 1 - Alfama, Castelo and Graça
Start your day at the Confeitaria Nacional in Praça da Figueira. Founded in 1829, its egg and almond tarts, macarons and pasteis de nata, accompanied by a coffee will give you the energy for your up and down walk around Lisbon.
Turn left in Rua da Correeiros and walk its length to reach Praça do Comercio: just think that in the past whoever came to Europe by sea was passing through here and this will explain the feeling that the square with its triumphal arc still is the access gate to the city. Actually the triumphal arc was built in 1755 after the earthquake that nearly destroyed Lisbon; it hosts statues of Vasco de Gama and the Marquis of Pombal, two historical figures that contributed to making Lisbon the great city that it was.
Walking the full length of Praça do Comercio you will reach the shores of the Tago river. Either take a left and walk along the river, or head back to Rua de Alfandega and climb towards the “Se”, Lisbon cathedral. It represents one of the symbols of the city and it does look like a fortress. It was built in 1150 on the same site were a mosque had been destroyed once the christians freed the city from the arabs. The massive and stern facade does not reflect the quiet ribbed vault inside. Despite having very nice hand-painted rose windows, we found the church rather gloomy and dark. To the left hand side of the church entrance, a baptismal font adorned with white and blue azulejos certainly deserves a stop.
Exiting the cathedral, take a left on Rua de Sao João de Praça, famous for the Fado places, little cafes with vault ceilings and building facades covered with azulejos. This small road will take you right in the heart of Alfama neighborhood where no directions are needed. It’s much nicer to get lost in the maze of the travessas.
Reach the Miradouro de Santa Luzia. (If you are lazy and lucky enough to find it, there is also an elevator that will take you there). This terrace covered in bouganville gives you an amazing view of the Alfama red rooftops and the river Tago. Admire not only the view but the mosaics of blue azulejos that surround the terrace and represent the siege of Lisbon. There are always street music players that will provide a nice soundtrack to the view.
Follow the indications for the Castel de Sao Jorge that is towering over the hill. The cue is not very encouraging, but if you have enough time to wait and visit castle, you can team up and while one of you waits in line the other can go and grab a pastel de bacalhau across the street. The castle was built in the 11th century by the arabs as the heart of their citadel. After that the crusaders and the Portuguese royals built around it and enlarged it. Enter and walk under the shade of the pine trees that line the bastions to enjoy the 360 view of the city. The castle is mostly ruins now, and there’s a lot of steep stairs to climb. The view deserves more than the actual archeological site, up to you to decide if it’s worth your time. Climb down the other side of the hill and grab a sandwich and a fresh juice at Nova Pombalina, a small neighborhood café in Rua do Comercio.
After lunch enjoy a stroll in the neighborhood of Baixa. Stop for an ice cream at Fragoleto in Rua da Prata 61, check out the vintage boutique Outra Face da Lua in Rua Assunçao 22, buy some sardinhas at the historical 30’s Coserveira de Lisboa whose shelves are filled with canned fish with a retro design. Once you’ve closed the loop and you find yourself again in Plaça da Figueira, stop at A Ginjinha. You will be greeted by the stern look of Antonio Espinheira, a Galician man who in the 1800’s made the experiment of letting cherries ferment in brandy, adding sugar, water and cinnamon. The experiment was very successful since people are still lining up while the owners keeps on filling glasses of ginjinha.
At night, enjoy the atmosphere of a dinner set in an old convent with a reservation at restaurant “A Travessa“.
Day 2 - Tram 28, Estrela, Chiado
Start your day with a ride through the city’s neighborhoods on tram number 28. We boarded in in Praça Martin Moniz, but here the queue is quite discouraging: we ended up waiting 40 minutes in line. A better alternative would be to wait for it to arrive along the narrow roads of Graça. You can buy the tickets on board but it will be cheaper to use the metro card. There is a reason why this ride is a must for most of the tourists: during the 40 minutes to Campo Orique the old, rickety tram climbs the streets of Graça with the clothes hanging so close to the tram windows you can nearly touch them, then goes down in Alfama showing the red rooftops and the Se cathedral, crosses the Baixa to climb again towards the elegant Praça Luis de Camoes. After the tram passes the Calçada de Estrela with the pastel-color azulejos, get out in front of the white dome and towers of the neoclassical Basilica de Estrela.
A quick stop inside this church will reveal an inside decorated with black and pink marble. The church was commissioned in 1790 by Maria I as a thank you for having had a male heir. Her black marble tomb is on the right side of the altar. Take a stroll in the Jardim de Estrela just in front of the church: the trails under the pine trees and the palms offer a nice repair from the summer heat, or as in our case from the spring drizzle. Out of the Jardim take a left and travel backwards the same route of the tram 28 to reach the neoclassical Palacio da Assembleia da Republica, that houses the Portuguese parliament. The building that looks like a greek temple with the columns and the statues, lies on the ruins of a benedictin monastery.
Time for a lunch break! Nearby you will find O Cocho, an Alentejana gastronomy (Alentejo, literaly “beyond the river”, is a geographical and cultural region in the south of Portugal that is famous for its olives and traditional sausages) that serves small bites and tapas for lunch. The two owners, despite not being super talkative, show the love for their region in the way they present the products and in the choice of the name: a “cocho” is a traditional cork bowl from Alentejo used to drink water.
A short but steep walk towards the botanical garden then down the road will take you at the base of the Elevador da Gloria: this cable car, running since 1885 and taking people from Praça dos Restauradores to Rua Sao Pedro de Alcantara, is unfortunately besmirched with graffiti, and the 350 m ride is not really worth it. Much better to walk beside it taking pictures till you reach the top of the steep Calçada da Gloria and the Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara. The panorama from this terrace is not as breathtaking as others.
While leaving the Miradouro towards the neighborhood of Chiado, stop by the Igreja Sao Roque to admire the contrast between the stern facade and the gilded inside, adorned with azulejos and marble.
With your back to the church portal, take the road to your left and walk down towards the Convento do Carmo that will really give you an idea of what happened to Lisbon in 1755. In the early 1700 Lisbon was at its height, flourishing through the commerce of silk, spices and the gold coming from Brazil. The on the morning of All saints day in 1755 three major earthquakes, followed by a fire and a tsunami razed the city to the ground. The Convent, founded by the carmelitans in 1389, crumbled down as well, killing the believers that were attending the Mass. After a short attempt to rebuild it, it was left as it was, with the arches and the columns forming a skeleton under the sky. The nave is disseminated of broken pieces of the original church, while the chapels host the Archeological museum.
Just a 1-minute walk from the Convent, Fabulas (Calçada Nova de Sao Francisco 14) with its exposed stones, the trembling flame lights of the candles and the hidden corners offers a very relax environment to recharge your batteries with a coffee and a piece of cake. If the weather permits it, sit in the inner garden, that we missed all together. Follow Rua do Loreto and do not miss on your left hand side the arrival of the Elevador da Bica that since 1892 climbs Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo. After Rua da Bica, a small street on your left will take you to the Miradouro de Santa Catarina: we had great expectations for this terrace that promised a vertiginous view of the city, but the scaffolds that were covering it (at the time) left us very disappointed. We were more fascinated by the Pharmacy museum and it’s garden bar than by the view.
Day 3 - Belem
A stroll in the neighborhood of Belem will make you travel back in time the era of the geographical discoveries of Portugal during the 15th and 16th Century when explorers such as Vasco da Gama and Magellano were sailing away towards distant lands filled with gold and spices and Portugal was but a drop in the imperial ocean of Manuel I.
From Praça de Figueira take tram number 15 that in 30 minutes will take you to Belem. If you are early enough or if you feel like facing a queue, stand in line at the Antiga Confeitaria de Belem that since 1837 bakes fresh pasteis de nata. They are still sometimes called pasteis de Belem because they were first baked in a sugar factory next to the Mosteiro in Belem.
Start your tour of this suburb of Lisbon from the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. The Monastery was built in 1501 by order of king Manuel I to celebrate Vasco da Gama discovery of the sea routes for India. It housed the ecclesiastical order of San Jeronimos whose spiritual duty was to pray for the sailors. The order disappeared in 1833 and the Monastery was used as a school and orphanage until 1940. The tickets for the Monastery are easily purchased at the center of the Monastery with automatic machines, while the main entrance is by the side of the Monastery. Before showing your ticket turn right and enter the Church.
The first thing that captures the attention are the massive columns that support the stone ceiling. Follow the path by the right side of the church, pass the altar and stop at the sacristy. The single central massive column that radiates towards the ceiling like a palm tree branching toward the four corners to support the ceiling and the wooden drawers definitely deserve the 1.50 euro of admission.
Out of the Church starts the visit at the actual Monastery. The cloister is built with lighter stones compared to the Church: walk around the lower level to admire the arches and the columns splendidly decorated with leaves and creepers. Before climbing the stairs to the upper cloister level, stop to visit the refectory, whose walls are covered with religious azulejos, and the capital room, with the tomb of the the Portuguese historian Herculano. Once on the upper level of the cloister pay attention to the gargoyles overlooking the central garden.
You can enjoy a walk and the best view of the Monastery from the Praça do Imperio. Crossing the square towards the river it’s impossible not to notice a white stone monument of a caravel. The Padrao dos Descobrimentos was built in 1960 to celebrate the 5th century anniversary of Henry the Navigator; it’s a 52 meters sculpture picturing all the famous Portuguese explorers. There is an elevator inside that can take you to the top, but you can get the same view from the Belem Tower.
We suggest a lunch stop at “2 a 8”, nice modern bistro were the petiscos (tapas) are mouthwatering and well presented. But leave some space for the delicious chocolate mousse.
Continue you walk along the river taking a right towards the Belem Tower; this represents a symbol of the Age of Naval Discoveries. It was built in 1515 to defend Lisbon’s port. The queue outside can be quite long as they admit only 120 people inside at a time. Once inside your IQ will be challenged by the complicated system of traffic lights that regulates the flow of people going up and down the 93 steps of the spiral staircase. Once you see the green light you will have precisely 2’30” to go up. If you are not fast enough, at the end of that time frame you will hear an hissing sound prompting you to leave immediately the staircase, up to you how… If you get to the top the view is definitely worth it. Enjoy it…!
Not everybody is aware of a curiosity about the Belem Tower. When you are walking out of the tower, turn left and under the western tower you will see the statue of a rhino: this is the portrait of an Indian rhino that was donated by Manuel I to the Pope in 1515 (but who never reached Rome since he drowned with the boat that was carrying him…).
As a final stop of your day in Belem, we suggest a visit tu Museu Colecçao Berardo.With its collection of modern and contemporary art, paintings from Picasso, Pollock, Miro, Warhol, it is simply unbelievable how this museum is not part of the touristic itineraries at all. Granted, not everybody can appreciate whatever art happened after 1960, especially if it’s a video of a man blowing a ballon with the nose, but the first floor with art of the early 1900 is definitley worth the 5 euros of the ticket.
At night pamper yourselves with a 10-courses set dinner at the (future Michelin-starred trust us) “100 Maneiras” restaurant.
Day 4 - Markets and what else
It’s always a good idea to keep one day “unplanned” for some last minute souvenirs shopping, for those things that you would do only once you’ve seen everything else. If you have kids (we don’t have any, but it was still hard to convince F not to go…) you can plan a visit to the Ocenario, located just outside the city and easily reachable by metro. Close by there is the Parque de Nacoes, that was built for the 1998 EXPO, and the Vasco da Gama bridge, the longest pedestrian bridge.
We decided (actually E did, since it was her birthday) to go to the Mercado de Ribeira, now known also as Timeout Market. Here you will find every food you ever wished for, and more. All the famous restaurants, cafes and pastry shops in town have their little shop in the market. Even the Michelin-starred restaurants in Lisbon have their stalls! If it’s time for a late breakfast grab a pastel de nata at Manteigaria, if too late for breakfast, choose among the delicious ham and cheese selection, the sardinhas, the pasteis de bacalhau and so on. If it’s a nice day outside, we suggest to do as we did, grab a little of everything, have it packed and head for a picnic to the Parque de Necesitades. The 714 bus (the stop is right behind the market) will take you there directly.
-
ROSENSTEIN VENDEGLO – Budapest
Walking into Rosenstein, Budapest’s most revered Hungarian-Jewish restaurant, two distinct moods emerge. The crisp white tablecloths, chic stemware, dark wood furnishings, and immaculately dressed waiters exude fine-dining elegance. But other details—from the father-son chef duo to the time-honored weekly menu highlighting traditional Hungarian and Jewish meals—lend the familiar coziness of dinner at grandma’s house.
Striking a great balance between traditional and indulgent is the forte of owner-chef Tibor Rosenstein, and now his son and partner, Róbert. What he started as a tiny buffet in 1996 on a side street next to Keleti Railway station (and which is still in operation next to the restaurant today) has grown into one of the city’s finest restaurants, all thanks to his culinary expertise and entrepreneurial chops. Rosenstein’s menu is made up of Hungarian-Jewish specialties, from gulyás to lecsó (stewed peppers and tomatoes), and lamb knuckles with garlic hremzli (potato pancake) to goose leg with red cabbage. But it is his decadent take on comfort foods—such as töltött káposzta (stuffed cabbage) and Brassói aprópecsenye (a dish made up roasted pork, potatoes, garlic, and paprika)—that really stands out.
Hungary, with its robust soup, bread and meat traditions, has also infused its own flavors into the vibrant Jewish cuisine which has deep roots in Hungary, and is undergoing somewhat of a renaissance these days.
There are plenty of excellent dishes to try at Rosenstein—which has become somewhat of a pilgrimage spot for visitors to Budapest—including the matzo ball soup. But if you are there, you really cannot miss trying the sólet.
Sólet is the Hungarian take on the Jewish bean stew, cholent, a slow-baked bean stew which is prepared for the Sabbath. The local take, naturally, adds paprika, as well as onions, often boiled eggs, and meat. The type of meat added is largely dependent on the region, customs and wealth of the cook, and can include smoked pork, goose, or duck. At Rosenstein, the sophisticated sólet comes complete with stuffed goose neck, creamy roasted egg, and smoked brisket. It’s a hearty, wonderfully-prepared meal that not only deserves a pilgrimage but also clearly underlines the restaurant’s motto: everything is kosher that tastes good.
While the patriarch masterfully prepares classics, Tibor’s son Róbert helps bring the fusion fare into the 21st century. On the menu are modern variations of szalontüdő (lung stew), stewed veal with tarhonya (egg barley) and grilled chicken stuffed with goose liver. On the sweet end of the menu, there is madártej (floating islands), császármorzsa (emperor’s crumbs) and flódni, a traditional Jewish triple-layered pastry filled with ground walnuts, poppy seeds, and apples, slicked with homemade plum jam.
-
CAVIAR AND BULL – Budapest
PreviousNextMarvin Gauci is not an average guy; he is not even 40 years old, and he has already created a preeminent gastro empire in Malta. He leads four top-category restaurants, as well as an exclusive pop-up dinner series held in the air. Now for the first time he created something truly sophisticated outside Malta as well, and launched a Mediterranean fine-dining restaurant, Caviar & Bull.
The restaurant is located adjacent to Corinthia Hotel Budapest, just off the Grand Boulevard in the centre of the city, ran by three extraordinary gentlemen, László Kézdi-Schalchta, Sergi Huerga Marin, the head chef and Marvin himself. The trio’s history goes way back to Malta, where their love for gastronomy and expertise brought them together. Their role in Caviar & Bull’s success is indubitable. You can find chef Sergi explaining the elements of the degustation menu to a guest sitting at the table, László filleting a fish and Marvin pouring liquid nitrogen as an additional show element for plating.
If we asked any gastro enthusiasts from Malta, they would surely know the name Marvin Gauci. He is the star chef of the island, as anytime he opens a new restaurant it is bound to be successful, whether it is Asian-influenced or Mediterranean. He came to Budapest through the Corinthia Hotel, as Caviar & Bull’s “brother restaurant” can be connected to one of the locations of this hotel chain, too. An opportunity emerged when this unit in the Corinthia became free, and Marvin decided to seize it. The choice of the name refers to a love of seafood and the gastronomy of the “land”. The logo also aims to merge these two elements as well, and we really like it.
The guest area is high-class, whether we look at the materials or at the tiniest details. It is enhanced with a beautiful bar, where they pay great attention to both mixology and the assortment of fine wines. For instance, the wine list includes several highly elegant and special items.
Let’s take a look at Caviar & Bull’s gastro concept: they lead a laid-back and bohemian Mediterranean cuisine in a fine-dining environment. Furthermore, they also like “sharing”, which means that when, for instance, a couple orders a degustation menu, the courses come served on one plate with two extra plates on the side in order to enable them to enjoy the intimacy of sharing a meal. We like it, but if you prefer to follow Joey Tribbiani’ rules, do not be surprised here.
The menu is lengthy and not simple, just as we expected from a Mediterranean eatery. Sergi Huerga Marin let his fantasy unwind, aiming to present the flavors of the Mediterranean Sea. They even did some “magic” during our visit, and this is how both the wagyu (5,200 HUF) and the salmon carpaccio (4,900 HUF) came served with smoke kept under a glass bell and with attentive pairings. They professionally create a sweet-savory-bitter-sour harmony of flavors in their meals. Their goose liver (5,600 HUF) course comes with walnut and blueberry jam, roasted brioche, Tokaji Aszú (a Hungarian wine), balsamic vinegar caviar, and pear and apple purée. Many of these meals are also served in the restaurant in Malta, however, Caviar & Bull shoots towards a Michelin star, hence they have to pay attention to using local ingredients, too. Therefore, we find Hungarian components in several courses. For example, the original Foie Gras from the Maltese menu was served with molecular caviar made of honey, but now, it is made from sweet Tokaj wine and the Beef Tartare is made with the inclusion of gherkins and paprika, which were not in the original Maltese recipe. There are not so many differences between the new Budapest restaurant and the original one in Malta, but many aspects of ‘Hungarian- ness’ have been seamlessly incorporated, such as the use of the local grey cattle, Mangalica pig, Foie gras, paprika and Tokaj wine, enhancing the dishes furthermore.
Our waiter happily advised us to eat these meals with our hands instead of trying to get by with a knife and fork. Even Marvin said the same, who does not rest for a minute, but keeps crisscrossing between the tables; if he sees that someone is interested, he is happy to sit with them for a while, telling them about the restaurant and the meals, or even asking these guests about their experiences… whether they are Budapest residents, or from as far away as Abu Dhabi.
-
Budapest
Budapest (made of Buda, the old town, and Pest, the new part of the city) owes its beauty to the hand of history that has shaped it the way it is. Overall, it has a fin-de-siecle feel to it, for it was during the capital’s ‘golden age’ in the late 19th century that most of what we see today was built. And in Budapest the past is just around the corner, with bullet holes and shrapnel pockmarks on buildings and poignant memorials. But there is also much joy as loved concert halls and theaters are built and renovated, metro lines extended and busy streets repaved and pedestrianized.
Here is our proposed itinerary to merge in its beauty in 3 days. If you have time we do suggest checking out the thermal baths and the little village of Szentendre.
Day 1 - Parliament and jewish quarter
Start your itinerary from the parliament.
It is hungsry largest building, stretching for 270 m along the danube in pest. The choice of the location is not made by chance. As a counterweight to the royal palace that rises high on buda hill on the opposite side of the river, the placement was meant to signify that the nation’s future lay with popular democracy and not royal prerogative. TCompleted in 1902 the structure is thought to have been inspired by london’s rebuilt palace of Westminster. The building is a blend of neo gothic, neo romanescque and neo baroque, with sculptures of the great and the good – kings, princes an hystorical figures – gazing onto the river from the western façade, ehile the main door, the lion gate has been recently renovafted. Unfortunately not a lot of attention (or money) was spent on the materials for the building: the ornatevstructure was surfaced with a porous form of limestone that does not resists pollution very well, so the bulding is under constant renovation. Circle it from the outside, ticketed vsits are feasible but they will take a full morning and they need to be booked in advance.
Facing the parliament, walt to your left throught the gardens of Kossuth Lajos square separating it from the official governements buildings. Continue straight through a dedalus of small streets till you reach the X gardens. From there admire the view on your left of the Szechenyi Lanchid bridge, then turn right towards th historical Graham building that now hosts the Four Season Hotel. Walk the lobby with its art deco style and exit to the left into the pedestrian zrinyi u.
Walk it towards Sain Stephen basilica.
It s the most important catholic church in all of hungsry, if for no other reason than that it contains the mummified right hand of the chirch patron. It’s neoclassical, in the form of a Greek cross and can accommodate 8000 worshippers. It took 60 yers to be completed in 1905. The façade is anchored by 2 bell towers, one of which contains a bell weighting 9 tonnes (even if av replacement for one looted by the Germans). Behind the towers is a 96 m-high dome that can be reached by 2 lifts and 40 steps (or 303 steps if you want to walk).
The interior of the basilica is rather gloomy and dark, with the sole exception of the golden mosaics on the inside of the dome. Behind the altar and to the left is the basilica’s major drawcard: the holy right chapel, that contains the Holy Right, the mummified right hand of st Stephen. It was restored here by empress maria Theresa after being found in a monastery in bosnia, snatched after ww2 but soon returned. If you put a 200ft coin in the slot to illimunate it, and look from the right side, you will see the knuckles.
Guded tours in English deprt at 9.30, 11, 2 and 3. At 8 pm organ concerts are hekd here, on Thursdays an Fridays. Free and worthwhile.
When out of the basilica take a left and walk towards the Danube to the eclectic Vaci utca. Once you reached Erzsebet hid, turn left towards the Dohani Sinagigue. With its crenellated red-and-yellow glazed brick façade and two enormous Moorish-style towers, is the largest jewish house of worship in the world outside New York City, seating 3000 worshippers.
After the security check, turn right towards the Synagogue entrance, wear your kippa and look for the flag of your country in the main aisle. There you will find a volunteer eager to tell you every secret he know about this sacred place.
You will learn that when built in 1859 the Synagogue created scandal among the most orthodox of the jewish community because of its sfarzo, the innumerevoli windows and the introduction for the first time of music (through an organ). The rose windows, especially the central one, recall some leements of Christian churches; furthermore, an organ in a synagogue had never been heard of (mind, the organ is technically not ‘inisde’ the synagogue and is played by a non jewish so that no jewish is working o a Saturday even by playing an organ). These “innovations” and the nicknsme “the jewish cathedral”, led to the orthodox jewish bulding their own more somber synagogue just some meters away (Rumbach Synagogue) and to a scism inside the jewish community: non-ortodox jewish started cutting their hair, the beard, in 1853 the hemancipation lwas were promulgated so that jews could marry non-jews.
All around the synagogue you may notice the six pointed stars f the Azkenazy jews, along with the less known 8 pointed star of the Sephardites jews from spain: this second symbol, the Solomon star, is an universal symbol of happiness.
Your guide will take you outside of the synagogue, through the cemetery and into the back garden. Your attention will be immediately captured by a metallic sculpture of a tree, but turn left first and adimere the temple of heroes: this a a classically built synagogue, rectancular, with no decorarions and a cupola on top, dedicated to all the jews that lost their life in the 15-18 war. Both the main synagogue and the Temple are pointing towards Jerusalem.
Very surprisingly the II WW did not affect massively the Hungarian jews during the first years. On the contrary, Humgary was a refuge for all the Jews of the neighbouring nation, running away from the Nazi’s deportation. Onli in 1944 this safety collapsed and in 1 year 650.000 hungarin jews were deported. To these martirs it’s dedicated the tree of life, a metallic sculpture of an olive tree were every leaf has engraved the name of a deported Hungarian Jew. The tree is shaped like an upside down menorah (the 6 armed jewish candelabra) and behibd it there are Moses tables of the law: the protation of the menorah and the absence of words on the tables signifies the absence of any law during the genocide and the upside down world they were living in. No flowers decorate the base of the tree, but pebbles and stones; during their 40 years in the desert, Jews had no flowers for the tombs of the dead anc could only cover them with stones.
But during the dark times of 1944, several people saved hundreds of lifes, by hiding and protecting the persecuted jews: their name are engraved in the steli of the Garden of the giusti, right behind your back. On the ground, what looks like a tomb is instead dedicated to the “Schindlers” of Budapest, the impresario that protected the persecuted jews. I was very proud to see the name of the Italian patriot Giorgio Perlasca who saved so many innocent lives.
And finally the glass sculpture signifies the eveliness of the Nazis purified by fire.
The visit will end with your exit through a small gate at the back of the synagogue. Continue forward and take a left, walking towards the opera house.
From the opera house, premiatevi by walking to Caviar and Bull for a nice fancy dinner.
Day 2 - Castle District
Castle Hill (Varhegy), also called the Castle Quarter, is a 1km-long limestone plateau towering above the Danube. The walled area consists of two distinct parts: the Old Town to the north, where commoners lived in the Middle Ages; and the Royal Palace, the original site of the castle built in the 13th century, to the south. There are many ways to reach Caste Hill, but the most fun is to board the Siklo, a funicular railway built in 1870 that ascends from Clark Adam ter at the western end of Chain Bridge to Szent Gyorgy ter near the Royal Palace.
Walk up Varfok utca from Szell Kalman ter to Vienna Gate, the medieval entrance to the old town. The large building to the west with the superbly colored majolica-tiled roof containes the National Archives (Orszagos Leveitar; 1920). To the west of Becsi kapu ter (Vienna Gate square) – a weekend market in the middle ages – is an attractive group of burgher houses.
Vienna Gate 
National Archives 
Burgher houses Narrow Tancsics Mihaly is full of little houses painted in lively hues and adorned with statues. In many courtyard entrances you’ll see sedilla (13th century stone niches perhaps used as merchants stalls). Further along the road to the south-east at Tancsics Mihaly utca 9 is the former prison where the leader of the 1848-49 war of independence was held. The architecturally controversial Hilton Budapest incorporating parts of a medieval Domenican church and a baroque Jesuit college, is further south.
Just past the Hilton you will have on your left Matthias Church, a neo-Gothic creation designed in 1896 and so named because King Matthias Corvinus married Beatrice here in 1474. The church has a delicate spire and a colorful Zsolnay-tiled roof. Organ concerts take place here on ceratain evenings (usually Friday and Saturday at 8 pm), continuing a tradition from 1867 when Franz Liszt’s Hungarian Coronation Mass was first played here for the coronation of Franz Joseph and Elizabeth.
The same architect that built the church, in 1905 designed a viewing platform right behind it that took the name of Fishermen’s Bastion. The bastion is a neo-Gothic masquerade that looks medieval and offers among the best views in Budapest.
The bastion’s name was taken from the medieval guild of fishermen responsible of defending this stretch of the castle walls.
The panorama terrace was built with the idea to recall the old times, thus the bastion looks rather like a fairy tale castle. From here you have the best unobstructed views of the entire Budapest downtown, Parliament Building and Danube River.
The café serves beer, sandwiches, and cakes in a very casual atmosphere. The Bastion can be visited during the day time for a small entrance fee, but if you come at night you can easily bypass the small metal gate and see the towers and terraces.
Below Castle Hill is a 2km-long network of caves formed by thermal springs. The caves were used formilitary purposes during the Turkish occupation, as air-raid shelters during WWII, and as a secret military installation during the Cold War. Two sections ca be visited. The Buda Castle Labyrinth is a 1200m-long system 16 m under the Castle District that explores how the caves have been used since prehistoric times in five separate labyrinths encompassing 10 halls and galleries. It’s good fun and a relief from the heat of a hot day, but it can get scary if you lose your way or when you have to tour it with lanterns after 6pm. Far more instructive is the excellent Hospital in the Rock; to reach it, walk to the western walls of Castle Hill and get the stairs or the elevator one level down. Step outside at the feet of the walls and turn right. The Hospital in the Rock gives guided tours every hour.
It was used extensively during WWII and again during the 1956 Uprising against the USSR. The visit starts with a 9 minutes video explaining the geological nature of the caves and how the major of Budapest constructed tunnels to join the caves before the War. An english-speaking guide will then walk you through tunnels that have nothing in common with those of the Labyrinth: they are corridors of a underground hospital that was perfectly functioning during WWII. It contains original medical equipment from the ’40s and 200 wax figures. The triage room, the ER, an operating room with 2 operating tables, the first anesthesia machine (featured in the movie Evita alongside Madonna…), and the wards make you go back in a time when this hospital was state-of-the-art and when the real war heroes were the doctors. In October 1944 a bombing destroyed the water supply and for 3 weeks infections spread among the wounded. A second part of the tunnel system will take you to the 1956 ward, showing the difference in the beds and equipment. The last 15 minutes of the tour will walk you through the newest section, built as a nuclear bunker during the Cold War. Gas masks, decontamination showers, everything was ready to face a new little boy/fat man that fortunately never happened. It is more meant to raise the awarness about what some of the nuclear bombs that are currently known could do to our cities.
Take the elevator back to the walls and a final stroll towards the Royal Palace.
The enormous Royal Palace has been razed and rebuilt at least six times over the past seven centuries. Bela IV established a residence here in the mid-13th century and subsequent kings added to it. The Palace was leveled int he battle to rout the Turks in 1686; the Hasburgs rebuilt it but spent very little time there. Today the palace contains two important museums, the National Library and an abundance of statues. There are two entrances. The first is via the Hasburgs Steps and through an ornamental getaway dating from 1903. The other way is via Corvinus Gate, with its big black raven symbolizing king Matthias Corvinus.
Day 3 - Margaret Island and Erzsebetvaros
Margaret Island (pronounced Margit) is neither Buda nor Pest. This 2.5km-long island has always been the domain of one religious order or another until the Turks arrived and turned what was then called the Islands of Rabbits into a harem, from which all “infidels” were barred. It’s been a public park open to everyone since the mid-19th century.
Since there are not a lot of options for eating on the Island unless you go for a hotel fare, start your day at a Spar supermarket, where you can get loaves of bread, cured meat and sliced cheese, and a cheap bottle of good Tokaj. Once your lunch is packed, walk Margaret Bridge, the yellow bridge that introduces the Ring Rd to Buda. It’s unique in that it doglegs in order to stand at right angles to the Danube where it converges at the southern tip of Margaret Island.
Right at the souther tip of the island you will be able to rent a pedal coach, which is the best way to enjoy exploring the island in a hot late spring day.
The souther tip of Margaret Island, right after the Bridge 
Pedal coach to rent Start pedaling towards the trail on your right hand side. This will take you close to the running and cycling track, and a short stop there will allow you to admire the view on Pest from the middle of the Danube.
If you continue straight, you will bump into the Mini-Zoo, quite a nice facility with no entry fees where kids (and bigger kids like us) can learn more about endangered birds such as storks (regularly fed), peacocks and eagles. For a small fee you can buy food for the horses and the deers and feed them.
The Island is not overly endowed with important sights and landmarks, boasting a couple of large swimming complexes, a thermal spa, gardens and shadowed walkaways. But keep going towards the center of the island and you will find two historical sites.
A ruin is all that remains of the 13th-century convent built by Bela IV, where is daughter, St Margaret, lived. According to the story, the king promised to commit his daughter to a life of devotion in a nunnery if the Mongols were driven from the land. They were and she was – at nine years of age.
Further on you will find the ruins – no more than a tower and a wall dating to the late 13th century – of a Franciscan church. Much more preserved is Saint Michael Church, actually a replica of the original one built here in the 12th century, still in use and very popular for summer weddings.
It is now time for a well deserved pic nic. Find yourself a suitable stop, sit on the grass, lay the table cloth, open the wine and bask into the beauty of this nature.
It’s time to head back towards the bridge; the western part of the park has not a lot to offer in terms of sightseeing.
Once you reached Saint Margaret Bridge back, turn left and walk (or get the Metro for 2 stops) until Andrassy ut. This majestic parade stretches for 2.5km, ending at Heroes’ Square and the sprawling City Park. On the UNESCO World’s Heritage list, it is a tree lined parade of knock-out architecture and is best enjoyed as a long stroll from the Opera House out to the park. On the way, don’t miss the House of Terror, on your left hand side.
The startling museum called the House of Terror is housed in what was the headquarters of the dreaded AVH secret police. The building has a ghastly history, for it was here that many activists of every political persuasion that was out of fashion before and after WWII were taken for interrogation and torture. The walls are double thickness to mute the screams.
The museum focuses on the crimes and atrocities committed by both Hungary’s fascist and Stalinist regimes in a permanent exhibition called Double Occupation and visitors are greeted at the entrance by black ‘arrow cross’ of the fascists and the red Communist star.
But the years after WWII leading up to the 1956 Uprising get the lion’s share of the exhibition space. The tank in the central courtyard is a jarring introduction and the wall outside displaying many of the victims’ photos speaks volumes. Even more harrowing are the reconstructed prison cells (collectively called “the gym”) and the final Perpetrator’s Gallery, featuring photos of the turncoats, spies, torturers and cogs in the wheel from both sides, many of them still alive, who allowed these atrocities to take place.
The House of Terror is worth visiting more for the atmosphere than for the actual exhibition. There are barely any English captions, a lot of videos and documentaries from the time but all in Hungarian. However, every room is set to convey the anxiety and the sense of imprisonment that was at the order of the day at the time: high-tempo music that makes you feel followed, low lights, a labyrinth built with fake plastic explosive where the walls are cloning on you.
Out of the Museum, grab a coffee in one of the various organic coffee houses that are lining the street, then continue your walk to Heroes’ Square and rest a bit in the park right behind it, watching the boat sail on the lake. The metro station at the center of the house is very convenient, and in just one stop you can be at Rosenstein Vendeglo for a typical dinner.
-
Kigali
Established as the capital after Rwanda gained independence from Belgium in 1962, Kigali is located roughly at the country’s geographical center. It’s a natural gateway for visitors and an excellent base for exploring Rwanda’s best attractions.
Kigali is a very different city to some other urban center of the rest of East Africa. If you have time, plan to spend at least a few days in the city itself rather than simply passing through. In the quarter-century since Kigali was devastated by the Rwandan Genocide, it has been reborn as one of the cleanest and safest capitals in Africa. It is very clean, in part as a result of a complete ban on plastic, it is hilly, very well organized, with perfectly maintained infrastructure and streets lined with gorgeous trees. It is also a very safe city. Unlike other African cities, there is also a fair amount of things to do in Kigali so you should not skip it on your way to Akagera National Park.
Skyscrapers and start-up companies provide a surprising contrast to the lush scenery of the surrounding hills while contemporary art galleries, coffeehouses, and restaurants add to Kigali’s cosmopolitan atmosphere.
Kigali Genocide Memorial
No trip to Kigali or Rwanda is complete without spending some quality time at the Kigali Genocide Memorial. This is the best place to learn about the worst human tragedy to affect the country and one of the most awful historical times for Africa. If you only have a few hours, the best thing to do in Kigali is visiting the Genocide Memorial.
The Genocide Memorial is the right place to start your Rwanda travel because it will also set straight a lot of the traditions, customs and way of life in modern day Rwanda. It also provides an explanation and foundation for everything that you will see and notice as you travel across the country. Talking about the Rwandan Genocide is really difficult. The history is tragic and the many ignored signs that warned the international community about it make one feel frustrated and helpless.
In April 1994, members of the Hutu majority government of Rwanda initiated genocide against the Tutsi people after decades of conflict between the two ethnic groups. By mid-July of the same year, approximately one million people had been slaughtered, and 259,000 of them are buried in mass graves at the Kigali Genocide Memorial.
You should spend at least 2h at the Kigali Genocide Memorial to make sure that you have enough time to listen to all the audio guide recordings, read the text at the exhibits and walk the outdoor areas.
The Memorial also hosts three permanent exhibitions, the largest of which is dedicated to commemorating the events and victims of the Rwandan Genocide.
The visit starts at the reception where there is an introductory video featuring a few Rwandans whose lives were forever changed by the Genocide. You then proceed to the main building where several exhibits and an audio guide will follow a chronology of events across the museum from the time of Belgian colonialism to today’s reconstruction efforts.
Inside the museum there are also some halls devoted to the victims of the genocide where over 100 photos of people are displayed. There is also a section about other genocides around the world and a last hall devoted to the children.
After gaining an emotional insight into the horrors that shaped Rwanda’s recent history, take a moment to reflect on what you have learned in the Memorial’s tranquil gardens. Outside the main museum there are gardens and the actual memorial where the remains of thousands of Rwandans are buried. This is a real cemetery and so it is visited by the family and friends of the many victims who come to pay their respects. If you are visiting on a weekend, you will notice the many Rwandans visiting.
The outdoor areas also include a rose garden and a burning flame memorial that reminds the viewer of all those who died. There is also a library with research documents, a cafe and a small souvenir shop.
Nyamirambo Women's Center
A great place to explore is the buzzing and vibrant neighborhood of Nyamirambo, a multicultural and extremely interesting part of the city. Nyamirambo is the heart of Kigali, with cool shops, markets, bars, and restaurants. It’s a primarily Muslim neighborhood, so don’t come here looking for akabenz, but you will find tasty brochettes and fish offered. There are a few tours through the area if you don’t fancy exploring by yourself.
Located in Kigali’s multicultural Nyamirambo district, the Nyamirambo Women’s Center is a non-profit initiative intended to provide Rwandan women with the education and training needed to find employment.
The ladies that work here use their skills to create high-quality children’s clothing, accessories, and home decor products out of traditional kitenge fabrics—all of which make stunning souvenirs while funding the center’s community programs.
Make sure to sign up for one of their popular walking tours, too. After a traditional snack and a lesson in Kinyarwanda, you’ll follow a local guide on a tour of Nyamirambo’s houses, independent businesses, and mosques. Afterward, enjoy a traditional lunch at one of the ladies’ homes.
Inema Art Center
Kigali today is an explosion of color, art and creativity. This can be seen in the many local designer shops, the art galleries popping up at every corner and the hip and chic restaurants and cafes. One of such places is the Inema Arts Center, a mixed purpose building where concerts, art exhibitions, workshops and performances are held.
The center was founded in 2012 by brothers and self-taught painters Emmanuel Nkuranga and Innocent Nkurunziza to bring Rwandan art to light. Inema Art Center is now one of the best contemporary galleries in the city. It features the work of 13 resident artists working across a broad spectrum of different mediums.
In addition to beautiful pieces, happy hours (check them out on Thursday!), yoga classes, and other events can be found in their creative space.
It also hosts workshops and training programs for the next generation of Rwandan creatives, including weekly workshops for orphans with artistic abilities, traditional dance programs for children and a crafts program for women.
Visitors can peruse (and purchase) the artworks in the gallery, or shop for jewelry, linens, and leatherwork created by the center’s students at the gift shop. Keep an eye out for regular music and dance performances too.
Hôtel des Mille Collines
Once the grandest hotel in the capital, Hôtel des Mille Collines was immortalized by the 2004 movie Hotel Rwanda. The film followed the story of Hutu manager Paul Rusesabagina, who sheltered hundreds of Tutsi refugees here during the Rwandan Genocide. The hotel is quite an institution, not just because of the movie, and sits handsomely on one of the hills that make Kigali.
Although Rusesabagina’s role is the subject of controversy, the hotel itself is a fascinating piece of Rwandan history. Its pre-1994 glory has faded over time, but it remains a glamorous place to come for afternoon drinks at the poolside bar. While sipping your cocktail amidst the garden greenery, consider that the pool was once the only source of water for the refugees trapped inside the hotel.
Aside from being one of the interesting places to see in Kigali and the most famous and oldest luxury hotel to open in Rwanda, Hotel des Milles Collines is also one of the nicest places to eat in Kigali. At night when Le Panorama, the 4th-floor restaurant, opens, you can enjoy the city lights from a vantage point. Although Le Panorama serves refined fine dining with a strong French influence, some of the local produce, like tilapia, is incorporated in the menu.
Kandt House Museum of Natural History
Richard Kandt was the first German colonial Resident of Rwanda. He was appointed to the position in 1908 after leading the exploration northwest of German East Africa between 1897 and 1907.
About 500m from downtown Kigali is the Kandt House Museum. It is the former Natural History Museum, which was changed to Kandt House Museum in December 2017. One of the first things you see when you walk into the compound was the bronze life-size statue of Richard Kandt, clad in German military regalia with a walking stick in his left hand and a peaked military cap in his right.
There are two main places to see in the museum — the main house, which contains much of Rwanda’s history, and the reptile park, which has snakes and crocodiles.
The house has three main exhibits.
The first part presents Rwandan life in all its aspects – social, economic, and political – before the colonial period.
The second part traces the experience of the Rwandan people during the colonial period. Following the Berlin Conference in 1884, the Germans ruled Rwanda until 1916, when the Belgians took over under the League of Nations Mandate after World War I. Richard Kandt’s life and deeds in Rwanda are covered here.
The third part covers the history of Kigali, before, during and after the colonial era. Kigali was made the capital upon independence in 1962.
The guide then takes you outdoors where there is a large statue of a gorilla and an enclosure with a baby Nile crocodile — about one and a half meters long — soaking up the sun. They then lead you to a small room of made of wood, which has snakes in glass enclosures. Inside lay some of the deadliest of African snakes. They seemed well fed and did not require a lot of space. We had never been so close to the Black Mamba, Gabon viper, python and the spitting cobra.
-
Akagera National Park
Rwanda can be a bit chaotic: traffic, tons of people on the streets, accidents. But there are certainly ways to escape all these for a few days. One, is to go to Akagera National Park, Rwanda’s largest, just two hours drive from Kigali.
Set at a relatively low altitude on the border with Tanzania, Akagera National Park could scarcely be more different in mood to the breezy cultivated hills that characterize much of Rwanda. Covering an area of 1,120 kms the park is named for the Akagera River that flows along its eastern boundary and feeds into a labyrinth of lakes.
Rolling hills of Acacia bush, panoramic views across scattered grasslands, patches of thick forest and a mosaic of swamp-fringed lakes along the meandering Akagera watercourse all contribute to this park unrivalled scenic beauty.
Akagera is unique in Rwanda as the only savannah environment in the country and is home to the country big game. Large herds of buffalo, zebra, impala and giraffe are seen on the open plains while smaller antelope such as oribi, bushbuck and reed buck exist widely throughout the park. Elephants tend to stay around the lakes, which are inhabited by large numbers of hippos and crocodiles. Baboons and vervet monkeys are commonplace, less so is the secretive blue monkey. Leopard, hyena and jackal are also residents and may be seen on a night drive along with genet, serval, bushbabies, porcupine and other nocturnal wildlife. An important population of sitatunga lives in the papyrus swamps along with other rarities such as shoebill and other papyrus endemic bird species.
TRAVEL TIPS + RESOURCES - For first time and frequent travelers 
Male impalas 
Female impalas 
Elephant (bathing) 
Hippo (yawning) 
Warthogs 
Buffalos (staring) 
Giraffes 
Bushbuck 
Baboons (playing) 
Baboons (grooming) PreviousNextMagically, the air is torn apart by the unforgettable duetting of a pair of fish eagles, asserting their status as the avian monarchs of Africa’s waterways. Lining the lakes are some of the continent’s densest concentrations of waterbirds.
Camping alongside the picturesque lakes of Akagera is a truly mystical introduction to the wonders of the African bush, Ruzizi tented lodge, where we stayed for two nights (and never wanted to leave). Our tent was set in the middle of the forest, surrounded at all times by blue monkeys and the sounds of smaller (and larger) animals.
The safari
We arrived on a late Friday afternoon and decided to relax for the remaining of the day, drinking a beer on the lodge deck and reading a book. On hindsight, we could probably have gone for a 5:30 pm night drive through the southern part of the park, so as to have the next day for a full day game drive or another night drive (as to double our chances to see the nocturnal wildlife).
The game drive
On Saturday we woke up at 5.30 (quite early, but given that the tents are in the middle of the forest, the sounds of nature will wake you up shortly after anyway), had our breakfast on the deck at 6 and left for the half day game drive at 7. We were picked up from our lodge by our guide Felix and our driver for the day, Leopold, on a battered, roof-less Toyota Land Cruiser. This amazing duet took us through the park and showed us the secrets of Akagera. The drive took around 5 hours, enough to get you to the lakes half way through the park, but not to the northern, more savannah-like, part. If you want to get to the top of the park you definitely need to go for the full game drive, 8 hours. We were honestly very happy with the experience and being able to admire the animals that nature gave us in their natural habitat, and we wouldn’t have gone for a full day anyway, too long (and maybe a bit boring after a while).
Here is the video reportage of our game drive.
The night drive
We got back to the lodge around 1 pm, had our lunch on the deck and some relax before the night game drive at 5.30 pm. Can’t really explain how it can be different to spot a giraffe or a zebra in their natural habitat instead of seeing them behind bars in a zoo. The thrilling part is knowing that the park is huge and no one knows where the animals may be at any time. In this sense the night drive was the most exciting part, with the thrill of trying to spot the reflection of the car spotlight against the eyes of the wild animals. We unfortunately didn’t see any nocturnal animals, but we were lucky enough to admire two families of elephants drinking by the water pond. We watched in awe as the parents drove the two cubs away from our car, always careful not to disturb them or feel threatened since elephant charges as not so rare after all. During the drive we were constantly on the tips of our toes, hoping to spot a lion or a leopard among the trees; our expectations were increased by Videl, a 8 years old Swedish boy and his contagious excitement. The drive lasted 2.5/3 hours and took us back to the lodge in time for a dinner on the deck warmed by the campfire.
The boat ride
After another early wake up, on Sunday, our last day, we went for a bot drive at 9. It was only an hour long, but enough to take you around the Ihema lake, see hippos and crocodiles. Pods of 50 hippopotami grunt and splutter throughout the lake, while outsized crocodiles soak up the sun with their vast jaws menacingly agape.
Suggested reading
-
Ruzizi Tented Lodge
In the riverine forest on the edge of lake Ihema is a small, private lodge offering nine spacious, en-suite tents, dotted along the forested lakes’ edge. Sheltered by large trees and swaying palms, Ruzizi tented lodge is a quiet retreat in the spectacular setting of Akagera National Park.
The tents are located along a boardwalk stretching either side of a thatched lounge and dining area. A raised deck overlooks the lake; dinner on the deck feels like enjoying a sundowner around a cozy campfire.
Inside each tent is a comfortable queen (or large twin) beds and a private bathroom.
Owned and managed by the park, 100% of the profits from the lodge go back into the total management of the park supporting law enforcement and conservation initiatives. The lodge is entirely powered by solar panels.