• Places,  Rio de Janeiro,  South America

    Rio de Janeiro

    Rio de Janeiro isn’t just beaches and samba. It’s a spectacular city where nature collides with urban life in the most dramatic way—mountains plunging into the sea, jungle meeting pavement, and colonial facades framed by graffiti and bougainvillea. In just four days, you can capture the essence of the Cidade Maravilhosa, from sunrise on mountaintops to nights dancing in centuries-old streets.

    To really appreciate Rio de Janeiro, you have to picture it first. The city unfurls along Brazil’s southeastern coast in a spectacular tangle of granite mountains, golden beaches, and deep tropical forests. The southern part of Rio is where most visitors spend their time: neighborhoods like Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon hug the Atlantic shoreline, framed by dramatic peaks like the Dois Irmãos and Pedra da Gávea. Between the mountains, a narrow river was dammed to form the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, a mirror-like lagoon ringed by bike paths and overlooked by the towering Christ the Redeemer.

    To the north lies the historic city center, the Centro, where colonial churches, financial buildings, and samba bars crowd together. Nearby, the massive Maracanã Stadium rises like a temple to Brazilian football. On the eastern edge of the city, Sugarloaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar) juts out into the bay like a giant sentinel, offering some of the most iconic views in South America.

    And across the 13-kilometer-long Rio–Niterói Bridge, you reach Niterói, a quieter, charming city with beaches, modernist architecture (including Oscar Niemeyer’s spaceship-like museum), and a spectacular view looking back at Rio’s skyline—one of the rare places where you can actually see all of Rio at once.

    Founded by the Portuguese in 1565 as a strategic port to defend against French colonists, Rio later became the capital of the Portuguese Empire in exile, and then Brazil’s own capital until 1960. But more than political history, what defines Rio is its energy: vibrant, chaotic, sensuous. The rhythm of samba pulses beneath your feet, even when the streets are still. Over the next four days, we’ll explore its peaks and promenades, beaches and backstreets—always with music in the air and ocean at your side.

    North Rio
    South Rio

    Day 1 - Postcards and Promenades: Sugarloaf and the Beaches

    Your first morning in Rio starts with one of the city’s most iconic sights: Sugarloaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar). The name dates back to colonial times when blocks of refined sugar were shaped like rounded cones—just like this towering granite peak. Two separate cable cars take you first to Morro da Urca and then to the summit, where the city stretches out beneath you: beaches, favelas, jungle, sea. It’s especially magical in the early morning light, before the crowds and the haze roll in.

    After descending, head toward Copacabana. The long curving beach, with its classic black-and-white tiled promenade, is pure Rio. You’ll see locals jogging, playing beach volleyball, or sipping fresh coconut water at street kiosks. Continue west and you’ll hit Ipanema—stylish, elegant, with art galleries tucked between modernist apartment buildings. If time allows, end the day at Posto 9, where locals gather to watch the sun set behind the Dois Irmãos hills. The sky turns pink, music drifts on the breeze, and the rhythm of the city starts to slow.

    Day 2 - Christ the Redeemer and Colonial Corners

    No journey through Rio would be complete without visiting Christ the Redeemer, nestled atop Corcovado within Tijuca National Park, the largest urban forest in the world. The best route is the charming cog train that travels through dense rainforest—this historic rail, originally built in the late 19th century, became a gateway to the statue once slaves were freed, intended as a gesture of gratitude to Christ .

    Construction of the monument began in the 1920s and it was unveiled in 1931. It’s built of reinforced concrete, covered entirely in soapstone tiles mined in Minas Gerais. Interestingly, the head and hands were sculpted in France under sculptor Paul Landowski’s direction—and it’s said the hands were modeled after a Brazilian woman’s, bringing a touch of local humanity to the piece.

    Today, you ride through the heart of the forest, glimpsing the lush canopy restored during Emperor Pedro II’s era—reforested by freed slaves to protect the city’s water sources between 1861 and 1887—and now alive with waterfalls, monkeys, and toucans.

    From the summit, you stand beneath the vast arms of Christ and gaze upon all of Rio—from sparkling beaches to the tangled hills speckled with favelas. It’s a powerful fusion of human history, engineering, nature, and faith. For safety, stick to the train path, avoid hiking the trail after dark, and skip quieter paths that edge into less secure areas.

    After your morning at Christ the Redeemer, spend the afternoon wandering through Santa Teresa, a bohemian enclave perched on the hills above downtown Rio. The neighborhood originated in the 1750s around a Carmelite convent built on Morro Desterro, named in honor of St. Teresa of Ávila. In its early days, the area attracted upper-class families seeking refuge from yellow fever—elegant French-inspired villas still line the winding, cobbled streets above lush valleys .

    Santa Teresa’s charm comes alive with the iconic bonde tram, the historic yellow streetcar that, since the late 1800s, has climbed over the majestic Carioca Aqueduct (Arcos da Lapa) and snaked through the neighborhood along ancient tram lines. The aqueduct itself once carried clean water to the city but eventually became obsolete—and even turned into a source of sewage overflow—until repurposed for urban transport.

    By the mid-20th century, Santa Teresa declined, but in the 1970s and 1980s a new generation of artists, poets, and musicians began buying up the grand villas. Their studios and galleries turned the area into “Rio’s Montmartre,” a creative pulse that still beats today in places like Parque das Ruínas, where a once-abandoned mansion now hosts concerts framed by sweeping city views.

    One of the neighborhood’s cultural treasures is the Glória Maria Municipal Park, formerly known as Parque das Ruínas. Once the grand mansion of socialite and Belle Époque patroness Laurinda Santos Lobo, the estate became a gathering place for artists and intellectuals in the early 1900s. The house was later abandoned until the 1990s, when the city restored the ruins and reimagined them as a cultural center with galleries, concert spaces, and an open-air theater.

    This spot is more than a ruin—it’s a panoramic vantage point offering sweeping views of Guanabara Bay and the Centro, framed by the skeletal remains of ornate walls and contemporary steel beams. In 2023, it was renamed in honor of beloved journalist Glória Maria, and now features walls painted by Brazilian street artist Kobra, a vibrant homage that blends past and present in technicolor.

     

    After your morning at Christ the Redeemer, spend the afternoon wandering through Santa Teresa, a bohemian enclave perched on the hills above downtown Rio. The neighborhood originated in the 1750s around a Carmelite convent built on Morro Desterro, named in honor of St. Teresa of Ávila. In its early days, the area attracted upper-class families seeking refuge from yellow fever—elegant French-inspired villas still line the winding, cobbled streets above lush valleys .

    Santa Teresa’s charm comes alive with the iconic bonde tram, the historic yellow streetcar that, since the late 1800s, has climbed over the majestic Carioca Aqueduct (Arcos da Lapa) and snaked through the neighborhood along ancient tram lines. The aqueduct itself once carried clean water to the city but eventually became obsolete—and even turned into a source of sewage overflow—until repurposed for urban transport.

    By the mid-20th century, Santa Teresa declined, but in the 1970s and 1980s a new generation of artists, poets, and musicians began buying up the grand villas. Their studios and galleries turned the area into “Rio’s Montmartre,” a creative pulse that still beats today in places like Parque das Ruínas, where a once-abandoned mansion now hosts concerts framed by sweeping city views.

    After visiting Parque Glória Maria, make your way downhill toward one of Rio’s most astonishing—and emotional—works of public art: the Escadaria Selarón. This 125‑meter staircase of 215 steps connects Lapa and Santa Teresa, its every tile a story.

    Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón began tiling the steps in 1990 as a modest tribute to his adopted home, Brazil, splashing the steps in green, yellow, and blue—the colors of the Brazilian flag. Neighbors scoffed, but Selarón, who had already roamed more than 50 countries, remained devoted. Sourcing broken tiles from local dump heaps and discarded building sites, he first covered his doorstep, then steadily expanded—never stopping, declaring his work “a crazy and unique dream” that would only end the day he died.

    Over time, visitors began donating tiles from around the world. The steps now feature over 2,000 distinct tiles from more than 60 countries, a living mosaic that evolves as Obsessively as the city itself. Selarón continually replaced tiles—breaking and rearranging sections—to keep the installation fresh, likening it to a living artwork with “never complete” status. 

    Among the most haunting motifs are nearly 300 hand-painted tiles of a pregnant Black woman. The image first appeared in his paintings from 1977 and carried into the steps, a figure Selarón said represented “a personal problem from my past”.  Some scholars connect this image to his late wife, who died while pregnant—an echo of grief embedded in mosaic.

    Selarón lived at the base of the steps and became part of the scene: painting by day, chatting with visitors by night. He funded his work by selling portraits—often of the pregnant woman—and postcards, fueling his obsession with color and narrative. In 2005, in recognition of his cultural contribution, the city officially declared the stairs part of Rio’s heritage and made him an honorary carioca.

     

    Tragically, on January 10 2013, Selarón was found dead on his own stairs, burned—some suspecting suicide, others suspecting foul play after he’d received threats. His final act, it seems, was closing the full circle of his “never‑ending” creation—and as he predicted, the staircase did end the day he died.

    Today, the steps pulse with life: tourists hunting for tiles from their countries, musicians filming videos (U2, Snoop Dogg), and locals stepping through color and memory. This is no static monument—it’s a testament to devotion, memory, diaspora, and grief… and an unforgettable, surreal Rio moment.

    Day 3 - A Tropical Jungle Within the City

    Few cities in the world can boast a rainforest within city limits, but Rio can. The Tijuca National Park is a miracle of reforestation—once cleared for coffee plantations in the 19th century, today it’s a thriving ecosystem and the lungs of the city. You could spend an entire day hiking here. One popular route leads to Pedra Bonita, a rocky summit with sweeping views of the beaches and the statue of Christ in the distance.

    Along the way, you might encounter waterfalls, howler monkeys, or flashes of bright toucans. For those who prefer something less strenuous, a guided jeep tour offers a comfortable but immersive option. Later in the day, cool off at the Jardim Botânico, founded in 1808 by the Portuguese king João VI. With its towering imperial palms, orchid pavilions, and giant water lilies, the garden is a peaceful escape from the heat and traffic—a place to slow down and breathe.

    Day 4 - Football, Museums, and a Final Sunset

    Begin your final day at Maracanã, one of the most storied football stadiums in the world. Even if you’re not a sports fan, the tour is worth it—walk through the locker rooms, stand at pitch-side, and imagine the roar of 78,000 fans. It’s not just a stadium, but a temple to Brazilian identity.

    In the afternoon, if you’re in the mood for more culture, head to the futuristic Museum of Tomorrow (Museu do Amanhã), built on the former docks with sweeping lines and science-driven exhibits on climate, cities, and the future of humanity. Or if you prefer something slower, explore the refined streets of Leblon, the city’s most upscale neighborhood, where you can browse bookstores, sip a quiet espresso, or do some last-minute shopping.

    As the sun begins to sink, join locals at Mureta da Urca. It’s not a formal bar or even a restaurant—just a stone wall by the bay where people gather with cold beer, conversation, and a view of the boats bobbing in the harbor. It’s humble, authentic, and oddly perfect—just like Rio.

    Comments Off on Rio de Janeiro
  • Adventures,  Parque Nacional Los Glaciares,  Places,  South America

    Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

    Los Glaciares National Park is located in the area known as Austral Andes in Argentina, in the south west of Santa Cruz on the border with Chile. By his magnificent natural beauty, it constitutes a wonder in the world, and was declared “World Heritage” by UNESCO in 1981.

    This park shows a scenario of mountains, lakes and woods, including a large portion of the Andes practically under ice and snow to the west, and the arid Patagonian steppe to the east.
    Its name refer to the glaciers that are born on the Ice Caps – the largest continental ice extension after Anctartica- which occupies almost half its area. Also known as Patagonic Continental Ice, creates 47 big glaciers, 13 of which flow to the Atlantic. There are also more than 200 smaller glaciers, unconnected to the Ice Caps. 
    All over the world glaciers are over 2500 mts over sea level, but here, in Santa Cruz, they are originated on the Ice Caps, at 1500 mts over sea level, and flow down to 200 mts, having the possibility of an unique approach and view.
    As a result of the enormous pressure of the antique ice and the subsequent thaw, three big lakes, two of them inside the NP appeared: Lago Argentino and Lago Viedma, the waters of which flow as Rio Santa Cruz to the Atlantic Ocean crossing the province

    Trail map of Los Glaciares National Park around El Chaltén

    Cerro Fitz Roy - Laguna de Los Tres

    Laguna de Los Tres is one of the most iconic hikes in Patagonia and the best trek you can do from El Chalten in Argentina. It’s also known as Fitz Roy hike because the trail will take you to the classic viewpoint of Mount Fitz Roy and the lake. 

    Laguna de Los Tres means in English Lake of the Three, and the number three represents here three peaks towering above the lagoon – the highest Mount Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, and Mount Poincenot.Finding trailhead to Laguna de Los Tres couldn’t be easier. 

    The trail starts at the north end of the urban area of El Chalten. You only need to follow Avenida San Martin until you reach the parking lot on your left.

    Trailhead sign with the profile of the Laguna de los Tres route, El Chaltén

    From the parking lot, the trail starts quite steeply up. The first ascent lasts about an hour, but in the end, you will be rewarded by a splendid view of De las Vueltas river sneaking through the valley.

    From this mirador, the path continues up, but not that steeply. You will walk on a narrow path partially hidden in the forest until you reach a fork where you can decide to turn right and walk through the Mirador del Fitz Roy or turn left and go via Laguna Capri.

    River valley and mountains at dawn near El Chaltén, Patagonia
    Trail sign for Laguna de los Tres and Campamento Poincenot

    Generally, it does not matter which option you’ll take as you can walk the other side on the way back.

    But if the weather is pleasant, you should go via the viewpoint first as the situation can change any time, and it might be the only time you’ll get the chance to see the iconic Fitz Roy from a distance.

    The spires of Cerro Fitz Roy above the Patagonian steppe
    Panel naming the peaks at the Mirador del Fitz Roy, 750 metres

    After you enjoy the panoramic views, the path continues down and soon became flat, which will be a welcoming change.

    The path will now wind through the low thicket, along Del Salto Stream, and later you emerge in an open valley and walk a very scenic section where you will go across wetlands, so from time to time, it will be necessary to cross wooden boardwalks.

    At the end of this part, you will find a campground in the woods, where you can have a snack and recharge as you have the most challenging one-kilometer-long section ahead of you.

    On this last kilometer, you will gain 400 meters in elevation and have to walk the rocky trail – watch every step as it is easy to lose balance here.

    If you bring trekking poles, they will help you a lot in this section.

    Finally, after approximately 45 minutes, you will reach the end of the trail and be rewarded with stunning views of the lake and three towering peaks behind.

    Wooden footbridge on the trail to Laguna de los Tres
    Cerro Fitz Roy reflected in the turquoise water of Laguna de los Tres

    Chorillo del Salto

    This pleasant trek is perfect for a first contact with the natural environment of El Chaltén, you walk through a forest area in a footpath with no difficulty. At the end of the trail a lovely waterfall and its stream invite you to take a break for contemplation at the shelter of the native forest.The trail begins in El Chaltén, at the end of Av. San Martín, on the same trailhead towards Laguna De los Tres; You must take the path going to the right. In a short time the trail ascends and immediately after it descends until you reach the unpaved route that leads to the Lago del Desierto (Provincial Route 41). Shortly after you will find a signpost on your right hand side indicating the entrance to the “Bicisenda”(bike trail) -a path exclusively for cycling, do not enter- and after a few minutes more, you will see another signpost to your left indicating that the path to the Chorrillo del Salto continues crossing the low forest of Ñires entering the foothill area again.In less than half an hour you will reach the last stretch of the trail where there is a car park area; It means that you can also get here by car or bicycle. In the last section of the trail you enter only on foot, it is forbidden to enter with bicycles. This beautiful footpath is completely flat, between low trees. The distant sound of the waterfall anticipates that you are approaching the end of the route.The waterfall is on the last leg of the Arroyo del Salto, before it flows into the De las Vueltas river. The total distance of this trek is less than 4 km from El Chaltén.
    Braided river and clouds in the valley below El Chaltén
    The Chorrillo del Salto waterfall near El Chaltén

    Mirador de Los Condores - Mirador de Las Aguilas

    Starting from El Chaltén, you cross over the access bridge of the Fitz Roy river and then continue along to the trailhead starting at the National Park Visitors’ Centre. After a short walk you cross a small gate with a sign indicating the way to the left, and a few steps further you will see a second sign showing you the trail plan. From here it will be another half hour until you reach the Los Cóndores viewpoint. This footpath is relatively new, since it has been opened in 2004. It is well signposted and on its way you will find several informative signs that will let you appreciate the landscape around you. As its name indicates, the viewpoint is strategically located for the eventual observation of condors in their frequent flight between the valleys of the De Las Vueltas river and the Fitz Roy river. Furthermore it is an excellent alternative for admiring the impressive granite peaks and glaciers dominating the horizon.
    Ridge trail towards the Mirador de los Cóndores, El Chaltén
    View over the Patagonian steppe from the Mirador de las Águilas
    The trail to the Las Águilas viewpoint begins at the signposted bifurcation about ten minutes before arriving at the Los Cóndores viewpoint. This short trail has a gentle slope and as you go along you will discover the great Viedma lake on the horizon. The viewpoint is a natural balcony with a panoramic view over the steppe and the Viedma lake to the south, the Cerro Huemul to the west and the Cerro Piramide to the east.

    Cerro Torre - Laguna Torre

    From El Chaltén there are two head trails to Laguna Torre ; both paths merge within 5 minutes walk. Although the trek to the lake is quite long – 9 kilometers one way, the trail gains only 250 meters in elevation during this distance, and the majority at the beginning of the trail. The trail enters the valley of the Fitz Roy river and follows up alongside the stream to its source. At only 15 minutes walk you will access the first viewpoint located at the gorge of the Fitz Roy river which offers an impressive panoramic view of the Cerro Solo, Adela range, Cerro Torre and the Mount Fitz Roy. Across the river canyon lies the Margarita waterfall. Once you get to the Mirador Cascada Margarita, the first viewpoint, the hike from this point is not demanding, and you will walk mostly on a flat path, with occasional up and down sections.

    Autumn forest below the peaks on the Laguna Torre trail
    Trailhead sign for the Senda a Laguna Torre, nine kilometres
    Wooden bridge among autumn trees on the Laguna Torre trail

    Halfway through the path you will reach a natural viewpoint with magnificent panoramic views of the Adela range, Cerro Torre and the satellite granite needles. Finally the trail crosses the De Agostini base camp where it is possible to spend the night in your tent.

    Leaving behind the campground, the path continues towards the frontal moraine, which ascends until reaching its crest after walking for 15 minutes. From there it is possible to go down to the Torre lagoon. This lagoon tends to group numerous icebergs on its shore which has fallen off from the front face of the Grande glacier.

    If you have enough energy and want to get a better view of the glacier, it is possible to extend the trip and climb up from Laguna Torre to Mirador Maestri. This detour will add approximately 2 kilometers one way (depending on how far you want to go) and a minimum 1 hour.

    Icebergs floating in Laguna Torre, Patagonia
    Cerro Torre and its neighbouring spires above the glacier

    Other treks

    Loma del Pliegue Tumbado

    The trail starts at the National Park Ceferino Fonzo Visitors` Centre, where a small fence indicates two paths: to the left, the trail goes to Los Cóndores and Las Águilas viewpoints, and to the right towards Pliegue Tumbado and Laguna Toro / Paso del Viento. This trail maintains an ascending slope of approximately 1100 metres in total (3,610 miles), until reaching the viewpoint located at about 1500 metres (4,920 feet) above sea level.  Due to its height, the absence of trees and the total exposure to the wind, you should go prepared with a windproof jacket and warm clothes since a small snowfall is not uncommon even in the middle of summer. Having walked for about an hour, the trail crosses a plain called “Pampa De las Carretas”, from where you can appreciate the impressive Mount Huemul, the Viedma lake to the south and the whole imposing Andes to the northwest where Mount Torre and Mount Chaltén stand out. The trail then enters a beautiful forest until reaching an altitude of approximately 1000 metres above sea level, where the landscape changes abruptly: the trees turn to bushes and scrubby vegetation, and among the many stones on the way it is possible to find the remains of marine fossils which are bout 100 million years old. The last part of the trail fades away but it is still marked with yellow sticks until you reach the top of the Pliegue Tumbado -which can be snowed and if this is the case it is not recommended to continue- with an extraordinary panoramic view.

    Huemul Glacier - Lago del Desierto

    This trek takes place in the Southern region of Lago Del Desierto, 37 km from El Chaltén. To get there you can take the services of private transfers. This trek is the usual option for those who arrive at the lake and have little time to spend in the area. You will be able to enjoy the extraordinary views of the north face of Mount Chaltén and the valley of the De las Vueltas river. The trailhead starts a few metres away from the free parking area. Remember you must pay the entrance fee since the entire trek is in private property. The footpath quickly enters the Lenga forest and after a few minutes it begins its ascent on a well-marked trail. n little more than half an hour you will reach a moraine ridge with breathtaking views of the De las Vueltas river valley and the Mount Fitz Roy. Towards the NE you will see the Lago del Desierto and the snowcapped mountains of the Del Bosque range. After walking along the moraine ridge for about 15 minutes you will arrive at the beautiful Huemul lagoon, fed by the glacier of the same name.

    Comments Off on Parque Nacional Los Glaciares