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Parque Nacional Los Glaciares
Los Glaciares National Park is located in the area known as Austral Andes in Argentina, in the south west of Santa Cruz on the border with Chile. By his magnificent natural beauty, it constitutes a wonder in the world, and was declared “World Heritage” by UNESCO in 1981.
This park shows a scenario of mountains, lakes and woods, including a large portion of the Andes practically under ice and snow to the west, and the arid Patagonian steppe to the east.
Its name refer to the glaciers that are born on the Ice Caps – the largest continental ice extension after Anctartica- which occupies almost half its area. Also known as Patagonic Continental Ice, creates 47 big glaciers, 13 of which flow to the Atlantic. There are also more than 200 smaller glaciers, unconnected to the Ice Caps.
All over the world glaciers are over 2500 mts over sea level, but here, in Santa Cruz, they are originated on the Ice Caps, at 1500 mts over sea level, and flow down to 200 mts, having the possibility of an unique approach and view.
As a result of the enormous pressure of the antique ice and the subsequent thaw, three big lakes, two of them inside the NP appeared: Lago Argentino and Lago Viedma, the waters of which flow as Rio Santa Cruz to the Atlantic Ocean crossing the province
Cerro Fitz Roy - Laguna de Los Tres
Laguna de Los Tres is one of the most iconic hikes in Patagonia and the best trek you can do from El Chalten in Argentina. It’s also known as Fitz Roy hike because the trail will take you to the classic viewpoint of Mount Fitz Roy and the lake.
Laguna de Los Tres means in English Lake of the Three, and the number three represents here three peaks towering above the lagoon – the highest Mount Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, and Mount Poincenot.Finding trailhead to Laguna de Los Tres couldn’t be easier.
The trail starts at the north end of the urban area of El Chalten. You only need to follow Avenida San Martin until you reach the parking lot on your left.
From the parking lot, the trail starts quite steeply up. The first ascent lasts about an hour, but in the end, you will be rewarded by a splendid view of De las Vueltas river sneaking through the valley.
From this mirador, the path continues up, but not that steeply. You will walk on a narrow path partially hidden in the forest until you reach a fork where you can decide to turn right and walk through the Mirador del Fitz Roy or turn left and go via Laguna Capri.
Generally, it does not matter which option you’ll take as you can walk the other side on the way back.
But if the weather is pleasant, you should go via the viewpoint first as the situation can change any time, and it might be the only time you’ll get the chance to see the iconic Fitz Roy from a distance.
After you enjoy the panoramic views, the path continues down and soon became flat, which will be a welcoming change.
The path will now wind through the low thicket, along Del Salto Stream, and later you emerge in an open valley and walk a very scenic section where you will go across wetlands, so from time to time, it will be necessary to cross wooden boardwalks.
At the end of this part, you will find a campground in the woods, where you can have a snack and recharge as you have the most challenging one-kilometer-long section ahead of you.
On this last kilometer, you will gain 400 meters in elevation and have to walk the rocky trail – watch every step as it is easy to lose balance here.
If you bring trekking poles, they will help you a lot in this section.
Finally, after approximately 45 minutes, you will reach the end of the trail and be rewarded with stunning views of the lake and three towering peaks behind.
Chorillo del Salto
This pleasant trek is perfect for a first contact with the natural environment of El Chaltén, you walk through a forest area in a footpath with no difficulty. At the end of the trail a lovely waterfall and its stream invite you to take a break for contemplation at the shelter of the native forest.The trail begins in El Chaltén, at the end of Av. San Martín, on the same trailhead towards Laguna De los Tres; You must take the path going to the right. In a short time the trail ascends and immediately after it descends until you reach the unpaved route that leads to the Lago del Desierto (Provincial Route 41). Shortly after you will find a signpost on your right hand side indicating the entrance to the “Bicisenda”(bike trail) -a path exclusively for cycling, do not enter- and after a few minutes more, you will see another signpost to your left indicating that the path to the Chorrillo del Salto continues crossing the low forest of Ñires entering the foothill area again.In less than half an hour you will reach the last stretch of the trail where there is a car park area; It means that you can also get here by car or bicycle. In the last section of the trail you enter only on foot, it is forbidden to enter with bicycles. This beautiful footpath is completely flat, between low trees. The distant sound of the waterfall anticipates that you are approaching the end of the route.The waterfall is on the last leg of the Arroyo del Salto, before it flows into the De las Vueltas river. The total distance of this trek is less than 4 km from El Chaltén.
Mirador de Los Condores - Mirador de Las Aguilas
Starting from El Chaltén, you cross over the access bridge of the Fitz Roy river and then continue along to the trailhead starting at the National Park Visitors’ Centre. After a short walk you cross a small gate with a sign indicating the way to the left, and a few steps further you will see a second sign showing you the trail plan. From here it will be another half hour until you reach the Los Cóndores viewpoint. This footpath is relatively new, since it has been opened in 2004. It is well signposted and on its way you will find several informative signs that will let you appreciate the landscape around you. As its name indicates, the viewpoint is strategically located for the eventual observation of condors in their frequent flight between the valleys of the De Las Vueltas river and the Fitz Roy river. Furthermore it is an excellent alternative for admiring the impressive granite peaks and glaciers dominating the horizon.
The trail to the Las Águilas viewpoint begins at the signposted bifurcation about ten minutes before arriving at the Los Cóndores viewpoint. This short trail has a gentle slope and as you go along you will discover the great Viedma lake on the horizon. The viewpoint is a natural balcony with a panoramic view over the steppe and the Viedma lake to the south, the Cerro Huemul to the west and the Cerro Piramide to the east.Cerro Torre - Laguna Torre
From El Chaltén there are two head trails to Laguna Torre ; both paths merge within 5 minutes walk. Although the trek to the lake is quite long – 9 kilometers one way, the trail gains only 250 meters in elevation during this distance, and the majority at the beginning of the trail. The trail enters the valley of the Fitz Roy river and follows up alongside the stream to its source. At only 15 minutes walk you will access the first viewpoint located at the gorge of the Fitz Roy river which offers an impressive panoramic view of the Cerro Solo, Adela range, Cerro Torre and the Mount Fitz Roy. Across the river canyon lies the Margarita waterfall. Once you get to the Mirador Cascada Margarita, the first viewpoint, the hike from this point is not demanding, and you will walk mostly on a flat path, with occasional up and down sections.
Halfway through the path you will reach a natural viewpoint with magnificent panoramic views of the Adela range, Cerro Torre and the satellite granite needles. Finally the trail crosses the De Agostini base camp where it is possible to spend the night in your tent.
Leaving behind the campground, the path continues towards the frontal moraine, which ascends until reaching its crest after walking for 15 minutes. From there it is possible to go down to the Torre lagoon. This lagoon tends to group numerous icebergs on its shore which has fallen off from the front face of the Grande glacier.
If you have enough energy and want to get a better view of the glacier, it is possible to extend the trip and climb up from Laguna Torre to Mirador Maestri. This detour will add approximately 2 kilometers one way (depending on how far you want to go) and a minimum 1 hour.
Other treks
Loma del Pliegue Tumbado
The trail starts at the National Park Ceferino Fonzo Visitors` Centre, where a small fence indicates two paths: to the left, the trail goes to Los Cóndores and Las Águilas viewpoints, and to the right towards Pliegue Tumbado and Laguna Toro / Paso del Viento. This trail maintains an ascending slope of approximately 1100 metres in total (3,610 miles), until reaching the viewpoint located at about 1500 metres (4,920 feet) above sea level. Due to its height, the absence of trees and the total exposure to the wind, you should go prepared with a windproof jacket and warm clothes since a small snowfall is not uncommon even in the middle of summer. Having walked for about an hour, the trail crosses a plain called “Pampa De las Carretas”, from where you can appreciate the impressive Mount Huemul, the Viedma lake to the south and the whole imposing Andes to the northwest where Mount Torre and Mount Chaltén stand out. The trail then enters a beautiful forest until reaching an altitude of approximately 1000 metres above sea level, where the landscape changes abruptly: the trees turn to bushes and scrubby vegetation, and among the many stones on the way it is possible to find the remains of marine fossils which are bout 100 million years old. The last part of the trail fades away but it is still marked with yellow sticks until you reach the top of the Pliegue Tumbado -which can be snowed and if this is the case it is not recommended to continue- with an extraordinary panoramic view.
Huemul Glacier - Lago del Desierto
This trek takes place in the Southern region of Lago Del Desierto, 37 km from El Chaltén. To get there you can take the services of private transfers. This trek is the usual option for those who arrive at the lake and have little time to spend in the area. You will be able to enjoy the extraordinary views of the north face of Mount Chaltén and the valley of the De las Vueltas river. The trailhead starts a few metres away from the free parking area. Remember you must pay the entrance fee since the entire trek is in private property. The footpath quickly enters the Lenga forest and after a few minutes it begins its ascent on a well-marked trail. n little more than half an hour you will reach a moraine ridge with breathtaking views of the De las Vueltas river valley and the Mount Fitz Roy. Towards the NE you will see the Lago del Desierto and the snowcapped mountains of the Del Bosque range. After walking along the moraine ridge for about 15 minutes you will arrive at the beautiful Huemul lagoon, fed by the glacier of the same name.
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Val d’Aosta
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Gran Paradiso National Park
Day 1 – Colle del Nivolet and lakes tour
It’s the Aostan access to the Colle del Nivolet where you will find the Rifugio Savoia, built in 1860 as a royal hunting manor. From the parking in Port Valsavaranche, yellow signposts point to the start of the dirt path to the Colle del Nivolet. The pathway climbs in a forest of larches, passes a beautiful waterfall and becomes steeper and steeper until the panorama opens up onto the Gran Paradiso glacier. Few bends of the pathway will take you after 1 hour walk to the Arolley Cross (2310 m). Going on, you will walk the open plane of the Nivolet, a 6 km path surrounded by an open nature that reminded us of the Hobbit’s Shire. Walk along the river until you reach the Rifugio Savoia, on the shores of the Lake Nivolet.
Book in advance your bunkbed at the Rifugio Savoia for the night, you will need an early start on Day 2 for the Basei glacier. The Rifugio is not your typical mountain hut with warm people, it’s on the main road and its customers are mainly bikers, but it’s clean and will do for one night.
Spend the afternoon exploring the lakes behind the Rifugio. This lakes tour is a magnificent itinerary, not too tiring but instead with an awe-inspiring landscape. Once you have reached the peak of the Colle del Nivolet you have admired the two lakes of Nivolet in front of the Rifugio; now follow the right-side dirt path on the back of the Rifugio (yellow signs) which with a gentle slope will lead you to the plane from where you can explore the three lakes. If you keep walking straight ahead of you, you will reach the Lake Rosset, a transparent pearl that is overhung by the Punta Basei and its glacier. Continue your walk and leave the first lake on your left to reach the Lake Trebecchi, the best place to admire the Gran Paradiso that is reflecting in its waters. Go back towards the Lake Rosset, walk along its shores towards the Punta Basei and you will arrive at the Lake Leita. During your walk you will certainly encounter groundhogs that spy on you from behind the colored flowerbeds.
Day 2 – Punta Basei
An amazing climb in a varied and colorful panorama. The trek is to be considered alpinist only in its final portion that requires some skills on ice and rock climbing, and some equipment (tampons and picks). The path starts behind the Rifugio Savoia and gently rises on a hill next to the Lake Leita (2700 m). At the left edge of the Lake Leita the path starts a steep climb to reach a crossroad where you will take the right path. After a section with lots of debris you will reach a plane from where you can admire the small Basei glacier (your goal) and the Lakes Nivolet below (your starting point). Keep following the path and you will reach the edge of the glacier. Here you can decide whether to continue left and cross the glacier to the peak, or walk towards the right side and the crest of the mountain where in the summer season the terrain is cleared of ice. In the second case, while ascending with the help of fixed metal ropes, you can admire on your right the Val di Rhemes. In few minutes you will reach the cross at the peak of the Basei (3338 m), on of the most panorami peaks of the Gran Paradiso National Park, with a 360 view on the Gran Paradiso, Cervino, Monte Rosa and Monte Bianco.
Day 3 – Aosta
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Our tour starts at at the Arch of Augustus (2), the entrance door to the Italian peninsula during the Romans times. It was built to celebrate the victory of Augustus emperor of the 25 BC. The pitched roof is from 1917 and the crucifix above from the XV century. Keep walking beyond the Arch and pass the river Buthier to admire an original Roman bridge (1). The street that now starts from the Arch is via Sant’Anselmo, the heir of the Roman decumanus that was the backbone of the city: keep walking along it and on the right (still outside of the original Roman walls) you will reach the Church of Sant’Orso (3), the most famous religious site of the city of Aosta and still a pilgrimage stop for those walking the Via Francigena.
Once you reach the Church, on your right side you will see the tickets stand for the cloister: while you’re queuing for the tickets, admire the three buildings and the octagonal tower that form the priory in which you are standing. It was built by Giorgio di Challant (the noble aostan family of the Middle Ages) in 1468. The tickets will allow you a visit to the cloister, surrounded by 52 capitelli built from 110 onwards, that tell the story of the life of Saint Orso. A written legend outside of the cloister gives detailed explanation to each capitello. To the left of the cloister, the Church of Saint Orso dates to the year 994: walk the three navels and admire the wooden choir and the glazed windows.
In front of the Church, stop to admire a 400 years old linden and follow the small road to the paleo-christian Church of San Lorenzo (4), now deconsecrated, that hosts in the basement a nice archeological tour of the original church remains and of the adjoined burial ground.
Back to Via Sant’Anselmo you will reach the Pretorian Doorway (5), the true monumental entrance to the Roman city. Enter through one f the three arches and you can still feel the grandiosity of the Roman Empire. Once you are inside the Roman walls, on your right you will be able to admire the Roman Theatre (6) that during the I century BC could host an audience of 3000 people. Its grandiosity had the scope to leave in awe whoever was entering the Roman Empire from Gaul.
Keep walking to Torre dei Balivi (7), the residence of the Savoia representative in the city during the 1200, and turning left you will see the remains of the amphitheater (8) of the I century DC. Another left turn will take you to Piazza Chanoux (9), the heart of the city, built under the rein of Carlo Alberto of Savoia. This huge piazza is the heart of the modern Aosta, where ceremonies, expositions and markets are held. The Hotel de Ville (10) occupies nearly 140 meters of the right side of the piazza. The neoclassical facade is characterized by porches. Being a public office, you may be just able to glimpse the staircase and the ample salon.
Exit the piazza by via Jean-Baptiste de Tillier (11), continue to via Croix de Ville (12) and via Monsignor de Salles (13) to admire the neo-classic buildings, and remember that Calvin flew Aosta from these streets once he failed to convert the city. You will reach piazza Giovanni XXIII (14) that act as a stage for the criptoportico forense (15) and the Cathedral (16).
On the left side of the piazza, by a staircase, you will gain access to the monumental gallery that forms the criptoportico (a hidden porch, basically), that has an horse-shoe plant and had the initial scope of an indoor walk. Between the III and IV century, it became a storage area. When we visited Aosta, the Cathedral (16) was closed but maybe you will have better luck.
Continue your visit to via San Giocondo (17), that used to be the religious part of the city, and reach piazza Roncas (18)that used to be the cardo maximus through which Romans could reach the passo del Gran San Bernardo. On one corner of the piazza you can admire an hidraulic wheel that works over a small channel of Roman origins.
Last stop of our itinerary is the Church of Saint Stephen (19), now outside of the Roman walls, that has a massive wooden statue of San Cristoforo inside.
Monte Bianco
Day 4- Val Veny “Balcony”
Equivalent to anti-clockwise stage 4 in Kev Reynolds’ TMB (Tour Mont Blanc) guidebook. This stage can be walked independently, not as part of the whole 10 day trek. Features a moderate 600m/600m elevation gain/loss, and spectacular and continuous views of the Italian side of the Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco). Total walking time of the full day hike as marked: 5-6 hours excluding optional detours (Lago Miage and Rifugio Elisabetta). Generally recommended from June to September, but check weather forecast and avoid in bad weather.
Get to La Visaille (1800m) at the top of the Val Veny valley road. Either drive all the way up and park between the bridge and the closed gate, or take the hourly Val Veny bus from Courmayeur to the last stop.
Walk up the valley for about an hour (ascending about 200m), and connect to the main TMB trail near Combal (2000m). Optional 30 min detour to Lago Miage (recommended).
Ascend along the TMB for about an hour to the highest point of the trail (2400m), then descend to Rifugio Maison Vieille (2000m).
From Rifugio Maison Vieille you have several options:
a. Easiest: Descend to Courmayeur (1300m) using the Dolonne cable car in July-August only: http://www.courmayeur-montblanc.com/?
b. Longest: Descend to Courmayeur (1300m) on foot, following the main TMB trail
c. Shortest: Descend straight to Val Veny valley (1700m), where the aforementioned bus has multiple stops along the valley road.
d. Closing the loop: Descend back to La Visaille (1800m), where your car is parked – this route is marked on the map.
For options C and D – take trail number 6 which goes north-west from the Rifugio clearing.Day 5 – Dent du Geant and Aiguille du Midi
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Lake District
Day 1 - Carlisle
Small streets with semi-detached house surround the ancient hear of this small border town, still intact and fascinating behind the window shops of the pedestrian center. Neither chic nor cosmopolitan, Carlisle is typical with a strong sense of belonging, and the little nut splendid cathedral that constitutes its spiritual heart.
Start your tour of the town at the train station and admire its beautiful gothic Tudor facade, designed by Sir William Tite (architect of the Bank of England). Right behind you it’s impossible to miss the two oval towers (1810) that constitutes the entrance of the ancient citadel and that used to host a court and a jail. Pass between the towers and walk English St toward the mall. In the middle of the pedestrian street you will see the Carlisle cross (1682). The Tourist Office is here, hosted inside the Old Town Hall built in 1122, with a replica of the first victorian postal box of England, installed in Carlisle in 1853.
Make a right and enter the red and grey bricked cathedral.
The inside of the cathedral, made more splendid by the light that comes from the painted glass windows from the XIV century, will leave you speechless. Under the starry ceiling of the cathedral there is an mazing wooden choir and an organ with 200 pipes. We inquired about the timings of the services, and we attended a beautiful 45 minutes “concert” of organ and choir with music by Hendel.
Clustered around the cathedral there are some nice XVII century buildings such as the Old Registry (1699), the Deanery, and the Fratry, a XIII century canteen where the monks used to eat.
Turn left into Abbey St and pass the wrought iron gates of the Old Tullie House, a gallery and museum hosted in a 1689 palace. The lower floor hosts a roman exhibition, walking you through the roman conquer of Britannia and the building of Adrian’s Wall (that passes through Carlisle). On the upper floor the collections are dedicated to the social (the importance of the railway), archeological (Bonnie Prince Charlie and Robert the Bruce, the bandits at the scotch-british borders and the “curse” stone with the angry words of the bishop of Glasgow) and natural history (with the skeleton of a whale discovered on the western beach of Cumbria) of the region.
The walk of the Gallery ends in the actual Old House, with paintings from the early 1900 hanging over the walls.
A cafe just outside of the entrance can offer a nice refreshment.
Enter the Castle thought the XII century portcullis and admire the damp jails that hosted Mary, queen of Scotland. Walk along the walls of the Castle and breath in the medieval air.
We spent a couple of nights at Warwick Hall Bed and Breakfast.
Day 2 - Buttermere and Cockermouth
At 50 minutes by car from Carlisle, the little village of Bittermere is set in between peaks and valleys at the intersect of the lake Buttermere (literally “lake of the milk pastures”) and the wider Crummock Water. Even before reaching it, enjoy the view while driving on the solitary B5289 that will make you feel in a Harry Potter movie. Park along the main road, and look for the Syke House farm, from where departs a beautiful hike of 12 km that will take you around the Buttermere lake and up a hill to the Scale Force waterfall, the highest in Lake District.
Follow this small path (number 1 in the map) to the lakeshore path. Once at the lake turn left and follow the path all the way around the lakeshore: it will take you through the lakeside forest and through the Hassness tunnel util the end of the lake. Here the pathway rejoins the road (B5289), continue to follow it and turn right and follow the road to Gatesgarth Farm (number 4). Join the bridleway at the entrance to the farm and follow it across the valley bottom to Peggy’s Bridge. Cross the bridge and and turn right at the junction to join the Burtness Wood bridleway (number 5) that you will follow alongside the other shore of Buttermere lake until it splits at Horse Close just before the trees. Take the right branch by the lake and through the trees. There are lots of little bays which make ideal picnic stops in Burtness Woods. At the end of the lake, in case you are tired, turn right and cross the footbridge (number 7). The bridleway on the other side is followed back to Buttermere village.
But if you still have the energy ignore the footbridge and continue along the bridleway beside Buttermere Dubs and then alongside Crummock Water (number 9), the second and larger lake. The lake has quite a few little islands: you will encounter the two Home Island first, before seeing the green Scale Island.
Opposite Scales Island the bridleway leaves Crummock Water and turns west to climb towards Scales Beck. It then turns southwest and climbs more steeply to the foot of Scales Force. There is a footbridge below the waterfall, admire the impressive cascade but it may be spoilt by people diving in it and bathing. Take a higher level path leading back down across the fell in an easterly direction to rejoin the bridleway beside Crummock Water. Once on the bridleway, retrace your steps as far as Scales Bridge. Turn left and cross the bridge following the bridleway on the other side back into Buttermere village to finish the walk.
Reward yourself with a homemade ice cream at the Syke House Farm before taking the car towards Cockermouth.
The little town of Cokermouth, at the confluence of the river Derwent and Cocker, is the birthplace of the poet William Wordsworth. After the long hike, book a tour of Jennings Brewery. The brewery was founded by John Jennings in 1828 in the near village of Lorton and it was such huge success that there was a need for a larger malting and building to house larger fermenting vessels. The nearest market town, Cockermouth, was the ideal base for the expansion. The Jennings brothers acquired several smaller breweries and public houses over the years. Unfortunately, today there is no longer any Jennings connection with the business, and in 2005 the independent brewery was acquired by Marston’s PLC.
The 1-hour tour that starts in the bar walks you through the whole beer production. You will learn about the different qualities of malts that make the base of a good beer, you will taste the and understand how the toasted malt is responsible for the bitter taste of some beers. You will understand the technicality of “ale” versus “beer”, that lies in hops whose addition gives the nose to a beer. And finally you will witness the magic of yeast bubbling into the mix of malt and hops to transform it into beer. We strongly recommend taking the tour, it does not hurt that you will taste 3 of theirs half pints at the end.
Right in front of the brewery, Cockermouth Castle is rarely accessible to the public. It is privately owned and opened only during festivals. However the Caste is mainly in ruins, better walk 300 m and visit William Wordsworth’s birth house. It not only is a beautiful example of a XVIII century house, but also perfectly preserved with local volunteers reenacting as maids and cook.
Day 3 - Whinlatter Forest and Honister Pass
If your base is still Carlisle, drive 50 minutes towards Whinlatter forest. However, we suggest moving “base camp” to Keswick, much closer to the Forest. Whinlatter is home to stunning views, fantastic walks and exhilarating mountain biking, rare wildlife and adventure play. The Visitor Center opens at 10, and since your trek will start from here we suggest arriving at 10 am sharp so as to beat the crowd. The trek we did is an 11 km hike that will take you through differentent landscapes and will allow you to enjoy the Forest at its best.
Start from the Visitor Center, just out of it follow the green sign for the Heavy Side trail that you will follow through signposts 2,3 and 53. Heavy Side trail is one of contrasts. The beginning takes you through some of the mighty oaks adjacent to Masmill Beck. The trail then climbs through an area of coniferous trees which border the forest boundary along Heavy Sides where the views of Skiddaw and Bassenthwaite Lake awaits you.
Here at sign post 53 make a left and leave the forest behind to start climbing to 500 m through heather moorland the side of Lord’s Seat. From it’s top you enjoy the breathtaking views of Lake Bassenthwaite, then follow a small and hidden path that will lead you down the side and up to The Barf. A steep descent will take you back to signpost 21, tha you will follow to 7 and 8 to rejoin the Heavy Side Trail (54). Here the road is wide, keep following it until you see a blue sign on your left going down a hidden forest path.
This is Comb Back trail that winds through through glades, beside streams and landscape features. As the trail follows Comb Gill, keep a look out for the disused dam, which once provided a source of power for the mines deep in the mountain below.
Heavy Side trail 
Top of the Lord's Seat 
Towards The Barf 
Comb Back trail Coming back to the Visitor Center, replenish your energies with a nice lunch at the Cafe. And before leaving the car park, do not forget to pay, just by entering the plate number of your ride.
A 20 minutes drive will take you to Honister Pass, that has lots of adventures to ovver, such as “La via ferrata” if you really seek an adrenaline rush. We decided that it was worth enjoying the panorama around and visiting the last working slate mine of Englad. For those of you not familiar with slate, it is quite an expensive material that constitutes the skeleton of the rooftop of famous buildings such as Buckingham Palace and Saint Paul’s cathedral
Apart from the geological beauty of visiting the mine (zero for me, apparently this is the only volcanic slate in the world..), what is fascinating is having a real miner as the tour guide. And feeling the passion and the love of a Cumberland man for this local craft, and for the man who saved it, Mark Weis. When the mine closed in 1989, Mark mortgaged most of his possessions to buy it, to restore it as the principal mean of income for the region and as a touristic attraction. We owe to him the tour mine, the “via ferrata” and the fact that the best slate in the world is once again being produced. While he unfortunately was killed in a helicopter accident in 2011, he could not witness what the mine has now become: something unique that everyone visiting this area should enjoy.
We stayed at Borrowdale Gates Hotel, just 10 minutes by car from Keswick.
For a nigh of entertainment and culture, if you still have the energies, why not getting a couple of tickets for the famous Theatre By The Lake in Keswick? We watched “Ladykillers”, incredibly amusing and funny.
Day 4 - Keswick and Grasmere
From the little village of Borrowdale where we slept, Kenswick is just a 20 minutes drive. Start by visiting the stone circle of Castlerigg, east of the town. Certainly not as impressive as Stoneange, it is however impressive to think that those stones were laid there more than 2500 years ago. Not a lot is known about their function: the most credited hypothesis is that they represented a gathering location of cult or assembly. The visit here will not take too long, so jump back in your car and head towards Derwet Water Marina in Kenswick. Her eyou may hire a paddle, a kayak, a pedalo or better a row boat (like we did) and explore the lake with its plush islands. The rent is 18 pounds for 1 hour and 28 for 2 hours, we did the whole lake in 2 hours keeping a good pace.
Even if the rowing has built you an appetite, grab the car and drive 20 minutes to the lovely village of Grasmere. It cerainly deserves a visit for various reasons: beautiful to walk around, good tea houses to have a bite, and the village that stole Wordsworth’s heart. Now, we already learnt that he was born on Cockermouth and there he lived the years of his youth, but in Dove Cottage in Grasmere he spent his most productive years. And in the church of Saint Oswald he is buried. After lunch stop by the church cemetery to visit his tomb and the tombs of the family, then stroll around the small cottages of grey stones of Grasmere. Dove Cottage is just outside the village: when we visited it was closed for renovations but in 2020 it will open again. The last years of Wordsworth’s life were spent in the small villa of Rydal Mount that certainly deserves a stop: and what better excuse that to reach it through a hike?
William Wordsworth, known as much for his love of walking as for his poetry, described Rydal Water as “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found”. In his Guidebook to the Lakes he also suggested the best way to appreciate it is by ‘a foot-road passing behind Rydal Mount and under Nab Scar…very favourable to views of the lake and the vale…The horse road…under Loughrigg Fell, does justice to the beauties of this small mere, of which the traveller who keeps the high road is not at all aware.’
This 6 km trail takes the route Wordsworth suggested. But this landscape has more to show us than just ‘favourable views’. From rocks to reservoirs, burbling becks to bearing the dead, we’ll uncover the stories behind the place that Wordsworth called home.
Start from White Moss common car park off A591 between Rydal and Grasmere (1) and take the path uphill into White moss forest that lies between the lake of Rydal and Grasmere. Continue till the trails bends left and out of the trees (6), and walk it for the whole lenght, keeping Rydal lake to your left: only in the last part you will walk next to the lake. Keep following the paved road after the lake ends and take a left to a small bridge (5) to come back to A591 at the level of The Badger Pub. Here a steep road to your right will take you to Rydal Mount where you can rest for a visit and a coffee.
When you have admired the original furnitures, continue uphill till a trail on your left. Take it and walk trough caves and quarries for the whole length of the lake. At the end of the lake you will start hearing the sounds of traffic on A591 again (2): multiple small trails in the trees will bend on your left to take you back to the car park.
After a long deserved shower, we had an amazing dinner at Fellpack. Fellpack was born from the efforts of a bunch of guys )and gals) who love trekking and climbing. Its initial heart was inside a pub, where these friends got the idea of starting their own restaurant with a hiking theme. The result is a cozy restaurant with great beer selection and cocktails, and good and hearty food, served in their own hand made pottery dishes.
Day 5 - Helvellyn and Ambleside
At first glance the western side of the Helvellyn range may seem a little dull. They display slopes of a fairly uniform nature which when compared with the likes of Striding Edge and Swirral Edge on the other, eastern side, certainly lack that immediate, ‘in your face’ drama. Helvellyn though is a big mountain and the two sides of it are an integral part of why it is such a popular mountain. If you are into a total scrambling experience then there is nothing wrong with doing the edges. If on the other hand you want to savour the fantastic view down on to the edges from the summit, and if you just want to walk to get it rather than scramble then there is no finer way of doing it than approaching up the well-graded paths from the Thirlmere side.
The three highest peaks of the main ridge can quite comfortably be done by climbing the zig-zags of the Helvellyn Gill Path to Helvellyn’s summit. Then descending to Grisedale Tarn taking in Nethermost Pike and Dollywaggon Pike along the way. The best way back is down by Raise Beck, which is a little confined but soon leads down to Dunmail Raise from where you can make use of the permissive path to get back to the start.
Drive and park to the Swirls Car Park. Cross the footbridge over Helvellyn Gill at the back of the car park then follow the path South East alongside the gill to another footbridge. Cross the footbridge, then climb the steep zig-zags to a wall. Through the gate continue climbing to the remains of another wall. From here the path ascends the steep scree-covered shoulder South East directly to Helvellyn’s summit. It is quite a strenuous hike, 2 km with an ascent of 880 m. And it feels more like climbing stairs instead of walking, with all those stones along the path. At 925 m of altitute you will walk by the side of Lower Man and finally reach the summit of the Helvellyn.
From the summit of Helvellyn follow the main ridge path South. It is called Coast to Coast Walk, slightly easier but you will miss some beautiful peaks. The Walk forks at Swallow Scarth, take the left branch and follow it South, reaching the summit of Nethermost Pike, High Crag and finally to Dollywaggon Pike. From Dollywaggon Pike the path turns South East and reconnects to the Coast to Coast Walk. Continue along it and descend the steep zig-zags to Grisedale Tarn (small lake).
At the tarn turn West and follow the path across the low col to the head of Raise Beck. Now, this sound easy but you will have to find your own path till the head of the river, walking in mud and peat. Join the path on the South side of Raise Beck and follow it down towards Dunmail Raise. The path by the side of the river is mostly made of wet stones, so the downhill walk may be a bit tricky and slow.
At the end of the river you will start hearing the sound of cars and you will see the read. Just before the road turn right and follow the Permissive Path North to the footbridge over Birkside Beck. Cross the bridge and continue North along the path as it traverses the mountainside into the forestry plantations. This may as well be the most boring part of the walk, since the path is well paved and the nature all around is not super exciting. The path is followed North for just over 4km back to the car park
The whole loop is roun 15 km and took us 5 hours to complete, mainly because of the weather conditions.
Now, back in the car, drive 15 minutes to the little village of Ambleside. It is literally in the heart of the Lake District National Park, a small town loved by trekkers and walkers. Just so we do not loose sight of our friend Wordsworth, it was in Ambleside that he found his first job as a stamp distributor. On travel guides Ambleside is well known for the glass blowing shops and the small Bridge House (in the photo) were a family of 8 used to live. However, the glass blowing shops have now been replaced by shops for outdoor equipment, more common in Ambleside than pubs. Stop here if you need a to buy new clothes, shoes or gear.
We spent the night at Belmount Hall and had dinner at the Queen’s head pub.
Day 6 - Hawkshead, Hill Top, Fell Foot Park and Haverthwaite
Take a break from hiking and exploring nature and dedicate this day like we did to get to know better some pf the “celebrities” of the Lake District.
First stop, Hawkshead, enchanting village with charming cottages and the Beatrix Potter Gallery, dedicated to the drawings of one of the most famous children’s books author. The house that hosts the Gallery was the office of solicitors WH Heelis & Son. Beatrix met William Heelis here as he helped her with land purchases in the region, and in 1913 they married. The upper floor hosts various original drawing of her books, that are showcased here only for one year before being replaced by new ones.
Just outside of the Gallery, stop by the Hawkshead Relish Company to purchase some artisanal jams, and rest for a cup of coffee at KITTchen, a cat bar next door. If you feel like a short walk, stroll down the path towards Esthwaite Water, the nearby private lake. We did not rent a boat or stop for fishing, but only spent some time to take pictures and admire the landscape. Jump back in your car for the next Beatrix Potter’s stop: Hill Top was the house that she purchased with the money earned from the selling of her first book Peter Rabbit. It’s a XVII century farm with a beautiful garden of flowers, plants and vegetables which is still kept as Beatrix wanted. While roaming the rooms, her readers will recognize objects and corners that populated some of her stories like the Tailor of Glouchester and The story of Samuel Whiskers.
Esthmaite Water 
Hill Top 
Felle Foot Park A 15 minutes drive will take you to Fell Foot Park, a victorian garden with wide meadows on the south shore of the Windermere lake. We grabbed a quick bite at the bar in front of the lake, before taing the ferry to the other side of the lake, landing at Lakeside. From Lakeside station, grab the historical train towards Haverthwaite, last stop of the day. The only reason to visit Haverthwaite is the Haverthwaite & Lakeside Railway. The station is on the A590. Once it was used to transport goods for the ferries in Windermere, but now thanks to train lovers it runs between Haverthwaite and Lakeside, along the Leven river. Take some time to admire the 1950s trains and locomotives.
Day 7 - Grizdale Forest Park and Brantwood
The Silurian Trail is named after the geological time period in which the forests characteristic grey slate and shale rocks were formed. It is the ultimate walk, a 19 km trail that takes you down one side of the Grizedale valley and back up the other, passing many of the sculptures along the way, as well as some of the best views in the forest. It includes the summit of Carron Crag, the highest point in the forest.
Start from the parking lot (A), get the trail between the pointy building and the parkings. The first km climbs into a conifer tree, then separates from the white trail (B) and transforms into a gravel trail that slowly climbs for 3-4 km. This part can be slightly boring but soon (C) the trail dives into the forest in a steep rock-bottom walk that can be quite challenging. After a couple of kms the trail opens up (D) and the walk becomes more pleasant. Once you reach the parking lot (E), the trail connects with the local road and you will coast a couple of farms before turning left near the Force Back stream: take the white and green trail (F) until it separates. From that point on the green trail climbs, gently at first along the fields then more steeply inside the forest to the base of the Carrion Craig (G). The ascent of the Craig is not particularly challenging at it will reward you with a breathtaking view on the valley. The last portion of the trail (H) cuts through the forest and takes you back to the visitor center.
After a good lunch at the Grizdale Cafe, a 10 minutes car ride will take you to Brantwood and John Ruskin’s house. Ruskin was a poet, a writer, an art critic, but most importantly he was a thinker. The first “socialist” in the english history, despite being born in a rich family he understood the horrible conditions of the working class and theorized minimum wages, a social security and free education for everyone. The house is a beautiful example of a Victorian residence, kept exactly as it was, and the acres of gardens (seven) around make a nice exploration (even if non great on the legs after 19 km). Some gossip about Ruskin’s impotence, his marriage annulment and love for a girl 25 years younger than him can be learnt in the drawing room…
Day 8 - Coniston
We spent the nigh in Coniston, it is an enchanting little village with what we believe is the most beautiful of the lakes of the National Park. Also, it is dominated by the Old Man of Coniston, the last peak of hour trekking vacation. The walk that we planned to conquer it follows a circular route from a parking area on Walna Scar road, near Coniston in the Lake District. It sets off in a westerly direction along Walna Scar road itself, which is now a track, before turning northwards to start the real climbing over Brown Pike, Buck Pike and Dow Crag. The walk drops down to Goat’s Hawse before heading to the summit of the Old Man of Coniston, known by many as Coniston Old Man. From the summit there are excellent panoramic views of all surrounding hills and fells, from Black Combe around to the Pennines taking in the Scafell group to the North and as far as the Isle of Man to the West, along with Blind Tarn and Goat’s Water below. From the summit, the walk zig-zags down to Low Water before returning to the parking area through the remains of a bygone era in this part of the Lakes – copper mining.
Drive out of Coniston up the steep Walna Scar road. As the road ends, pass though a gate and park in the large unmetalled parking area – the walk starts from here. From the parking area, head away from the gate in a Westerly direction and through the wooden waymarkers, to continue along the now unsurfaced Walna Scar Road. Keep on the track as it gently rises through the bracken and ignore a track that shortly heads off to the right. The track then rises more steeply before levelling out again. Over to the left Coniston Water comes in to view and the further you walk first Brown Pike and then Buck Pike come in to view ahead. The track then reaches some steps, which lead up to Goat’s water. Ignore these and continue along the track. Cross over the bridge and keep on the track as it starts to climb around Brown Pike. The track starts to climb more steeply and become rougher underfoot, before passing a small shelter. Shortly after this, the crest of the hill is reached and ahead can be seen Harter Fell and Ulpha Fell. On the brow of the hill, by a small cairn and a wooden sign, turn right off Walna Scar road (track) and follow the well defined gravel footpath as it starts to ‘zig-zag’ its way up towards the summit of Brown Pike. Upon reaching the summit of Brown Pike, pass the cairn and keep on in the same direction along the ridge towards Buck Pike. Down below to the right is Blind tarn and up on the hillside opposite the summit of the Old Man of Coniston can now be seen. Upon reaching Buck Pike, pass the summit cairn and continue on in the same direction towards Dow Crag. As Dow Crag is reached, there are some photogenic views down the steep gulleys to the right looking down on to Goat’s Water. Head on up the final rocky section to Dow Crag summit. From the summit continue on in the same direction to start the short descent towards Goat’s Hawse.
Across to the right, the path to be followed from Goat’s Hawse to the summit of the Old Man of Coniston can clearly be seen. Keep on the path past a cairn and head steadily down towards Goat’s Hawse. Once at Goat’s Hawse, start the climb up the hill ahead. There are two paths, but take the more distinct left hand one. Keep ascending along the wide stony path, passing many small and larger cairns along the way. About 700m on from Goat’s Hawse, the summit cairn comes in to view ahead. Down to the left now the path home can be seen ‘zig-zagging’ down towards Low Water. Continue on the final few metres to the summit cairn. Pass the summit cairn and continue on in the same direction. The path initially starts to gently descend with views of Coniston and Coniston Water straight ahead. The path then swings around to the left to start its steeper ‘zig-zag’ descent towards Low Water below. Keep on the path down to the side of Low Water. As the far end of Low Water is reached, the path splits with the left hand fork heading to the water’s edge. Ignore this and follow the path around to the right, away from the water. The stony path heads between rocky outcrops in the direction of Coniston Water. Shortly afterwards the first signs of disused quarries can be seen. The path passes by small heaps of slate / rocks and the remains of old quarry buildings. Keep to the main path as you descend by the buildings. Once through the mining area keep descending on the path in the general direction of Coniston Water. As the path swings around to the left, ahead now can be seen a path junction. Over to the right the car parking area can be seen. At the path junction, keep on the main path following it around to the right. The path, now on a much more gentle descent, winds its way through a few small rocky outcrops and then heads again in the general direction of Coniston Water. The car parking area soon comes back in to view ahead. Continue back along the path the final few metres to the car parking area.
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Akagera National Park
Rwanda can be a bit chaotic: traffic, tons of people on the streets, accidents. But there are certainly ways to escape all these for a few days. One, is to go to Akagera National Park, Rwanda’s largest, just two hours drive from Kigali.
Set at a relatively low altitude on the border with Tanzania, Akagera National Park could scarcely be more different in mood to the breezy cultivated hills that characterize much of Rwanda. Covering an area of 1,120 kms the park is named for the Akagera River that flows along its eastern boundary and feeds into a labyrinth of lakes.
Rolling hills of Acacia bush, panoramic views across scattered grasslands, patches of thick forest and a mosaic of swamp-fringed lakes along the meandering Akagera watercourse all contribute to this park unrivalled scenic beauty.
Akagera is unique in Rwanda as the only savannah environment in the country and is home to the country big game. Large herds of buffalo, zebra, impala and giraffe are seen on the open plains while smaller antelope such as oribi, bushbuck and reed buck exist widely throughout the park. Elephants tend to stay around the lakes, which are inhabited by large numbers of hippos and crocodiles. Baboons and vervet monkeys are commonplace, less so is the secretive blue monkey. Leopard, hyena and jackal are also residents and may be seen on a night drive along with genet, serval, bushbabies, porcupine and other nocturnal wildlife. An important population of sitatunga lives in the papyrus swamps along with other rarities such as shoebill and other papyrus endemic bird species.
TRAVEL TIPS + RESOURCES - For first time and frequent travelers 
Male impalas 
Female impalas 
Elephant (bathing) 
Hippo (yawning) 
Warthogs 
Buffalos (staring) 
Giraffes 
Bushbuck 
Baboons (playing) 
Baboons (grooming) Magically, the air is torn apart by the unforgettable duetting of a pair of fish eagles, asserting their status as the avian monarchs of Africa’s waterways. Lining the lakes are some of the continent’s densest concentrations of waterbirds.
Camping alongside the picturesque lakes of Akagera is a truly mystical introduction to the wonders of the African bush, Ruzizi tented lodge, where we stayed for two nights (and never wanted to leave). Our tent was set in the middle of the forest, surrounded at all times by blue monkeys and the sounds of smaller (and larger) animals.
The safari
We arrived on a late Friday afternoon and decided to relax for the remaining of the day, drinking a beer on the lodge deck and reading a book. On hindsight, we could probably have gone for a 5:30 pm night drive through the southern part of the park, so as to have the next day for a full day game drive or another night drive (as to double our chances to see the nocturnal wildlife).
The game drive
On Saturday we woke up at 5.30 (quite early, but given that the tents are in the middle of the forest, the sounds of nature will wake you up shortly after anyway), had our breakfast on the deck at 6 and left for the half day game drive at 7. We were picked up from our lodge by our guide Felix and our driver for the day, Leopold, on a battered, roof-less Toyota Land Cruiser. This amazing duet took us through the park and showed us the secrets of Akagera. The drive took around 5 hours, enough to get you to the lakes half way through the park, but not to the northern, more savannah-like, part. If you want to get to the top of the park you definitely need to go for the full game drive, 8 hours. We were honestly very happy with the experience and being able to admire the animals that nature gave us in their natural habitat, and we wouldn’t have gone for a full day anyway, too long (and maybe a bit boring after a while).
Here is the video reportage of our game drive.
The night drive
We got back to the lodge around 1 pm, had our lunch on the deck and some relax before the night game drive at 5.30 pm. Can’t really explain how it can be different to spot a giraffe or a zebra in their natural habitat instead of seeing them behind bars in a zoo. The thrilling part is knowing that the park is huge and no one knows where the animals may be at any time. In this sense the night drive was the most exciting part, with the thrill of trying to spot the reflection of the car spotlight against the eyes of the wild animals. We unfortunately didn’t see any nocturnal animals, but we were lucky enough to admire two families of elephants drinking by the water pond. We watched in awe as the parents drove the two cubs away from our car, always careful not to disturb them or feel threatened since elephant charges as not so rare after all. During the drive we were constantly on the tips of our toes, hoping to spot a lion or a leopard among the trees; our expectations were increased by Videl, a 8 years old Swedish boy and his contagious excitement. The drive lasted 2.5/3 hours and took us back to the lodge in time for a dinner on the deck warmed by the campfire.
The boat ride
After another early wake up, on Sunday, our last day, we went for a bot drive at 9. It was only an hour long, but enough to take you around the Ihema lake, see hippos and crocodiles. Pods of 50 hippopotami grunt and splutter throughout the lake, while outsized crocodiles soak up the sun with their vast jaws menacingly agape.
Suggested reading
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Lost Horse Mine Loop
This 6.9 miles loop was definitely among our favourites. When we stopped at the Joshua Tree info centre on the first day the ranger told us that it was a quite popular trek, but unfortunately there were only around ten spots in the parking lot at the trailhead. To beat the crowd it’s best to be there around 8.30 maximum. Depending of where you are coming from it can be quite an early wake up, that’s the down side, the good part though is that the trail is always peaceful and quite because of the limited number of parking spots.
The mine was once owned by Pioneer Johnny Lang who had lost his horse to a gang of thieves, hence the name.
Follow the directions for Keys View and you will find on the left the sign for “Lost horse mine loop”. Drive down the unpaved road for a couple of miles and at the end you’ll find the parking lot. The trail is well indicated all throughout and we definitely suggest you do it clockwise.
The first part hikes the side of a mountain and after a little more than a mile you’ll reach the old mine. The vegetation here is not too exciting, we even thought there must have been a fire recently, since most of the trees were burnt. The old mine it’s the perfect spot for a snack, but we personally didn’t love it, it is surrounded by old and rusty aluminum sheets and it has a quite desolated look overall.
Most of the people once they reach the mine they will head back and don’t continue the loop. If you do, like we did, you’ll actually see the best part of it.
Past the mine you’ll reach the top of one of the Lost Horse Mountains, and get an amazing view of the valley. You’ll then hike down a steep ridge and then up again the side of another mountain. Here the vegetation is more lively and the Joshua Trees constellate the trail. Going constantly up and down makes the hike very exciting. Once you reach the top of the second mountain you are done, it’s all downhill until it actually reaches a flat area.
This last part can be a bit boring, but you still have amazing views in front of you and are surrounded by Joshua Tree. If lucky you can find some shade under one of the big ones and enjoy a snack and a peaceful break.
During these last few miles F. announced “No wonder the Pioneer lost his horse here!”
Here is a map of the trail.
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Joshua Tree National Park
Boulders and buttresses, rugged mountains, gold mining ruins, desert plains dotted with the oddball trees—this is one weird place. Joshua Tree National Park lies at an ecological crossroads, where the high Mojave Desert meets the low Colorado Desert.
The Colorado, the western reach of the vast Sonoran Desert, thrives below 3000 feet on the park’s gently declining eastern flank, where temperatures are usually higher. Considered “low desert” compared to the loftier, wetter and more vegetated Mojave “high desert”, the Colorado seems sparse and forbidding. It begins at the park’s midsection, sweeping east across empy basins stubbled with creosote bushes. Occasionally decorated by “gardens” of flowering ocotillo and cholla cactus, it runs across arid Pinto Basin into a parched wilderness of broken rock in the Eagle and Coxcomb Mountains.
Above 3,000 feet, the Mojave section claims the park’s western half, where giant branching yuccas thrive on sandy plains studded by massive granite monoliths and rock piles. These are among the most intriguing and photogenic geological phenomena found in California’s many desert regions.
The result of this encounter of two different ecosystems is amazing desert flora, including those wacky namesake trees (actually a type of yucca). The Joshua Tree was revered by American Indian tribes because its leaves provided durable materials for baskets and footwear, while the buds and seeds made a healthy addition to their food supply.Joshua Tree’s beauty shines around the clock, with vibrant sunsets melting into nights filled with uncountable stars.
Crafted over millions of years by torrential rain, battering wind, and extreme temperatures, Joshua Tree National Park stretches over nearly 800,000 acres of rugged terrain. These landscapes, which can seem deceptively barren, are home to several ecosystems. Despite the harsh conditions, Joshua Tree teems with plant and animal life that has adapted and thrived in the area’s fierce climate. Joshua Tree National Park is home to large herds of desert bighorn sheep, black tailed jack rabbits, coyotes and kangaroo rats as well as a number of smaller mammals. Since it lies along the Pacific migratory bird flyway, many large groups of migrating birds can be spotted overhead or stopping to rest in the park during the winter months.
The park’s premier attractions, forests of giant branching yuccas known as Joshua trees, massive rock formations, fan palm oases, and seasonal gardens of cholla and ocotillo, can be enjoyed on a leisurely half-day auto tour that includes both “high” and “low” desert zones— although most of your time will be spent in your car. Scenic paved roads lead to viewpoints, all campgrounds, and trailheads. Roadside interpretive exhibits have pull-outs and parking areas, and offer insights into the region’s complex desert ecology, wildlife, and human history.
Start out by climbing up to Keys View, where you can get a great panoramic vista of Mount San Jacinto and Mount Gorgonio, with the Salton Sea stretching out in the distance. Then pay a visit to Keys Ranch, where you can take a guided walking tour to get a glimpse into what it was like to be an early 20th-century pioneer on this unforgiving terrain. Close by but standing in contrast is 49 Palm Oasis, where fan palms tower over a crystal-clear spring, and also nearby is Lost Horse Mine, one of the few mines in the area that proved to be a good investment. Today you can see what remains of the once booming operation with an easy 4-mile round-trip hike.
If you’re looking to do some rock climbing, Joshua Tree has more than 8,000 established climbing routes, from easy beginner scrambles to extreme vertical cracks, and camping options are plentiful with nine campgrounds. Or, head out on foot or horseback to set up camp nearly anywhere; there are only a few restrictions. Take a break from roughing it to check out Pioneertown, a, 1880s-style false-front Old West “town” where more than 50 films and television shows were made in the ‘40s and ‘50s; today, you can still see mock gunfights and see top-notch live music at Pappy and Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace. Read on to learn more about these and more things to do at Joshua Tree National Park below.
If visiting the park by car, keep in mind that there are north (at Twentynine Palms) and south (at the intersection of Box Canyon Road and Interstate 10) entrances in addition to the most commonly used west entrance. There is also an all-inclusive (i.e. no entrance fee) shuttle bus service that makes multiple stops within the park. Avoid the biggest crowds by visiting midweek.
For a review and description of the various available hikes, click on the corresponding links on the hiking trailheads map.
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Warren Peak and Panorama Loop
During those busy spring days when the Joshua Tree National Park is swirling with tourists, backpackers and rock climbers, you may want to consider spending the day in the Black Rock Camp area. To reach it from L.A. while driving on Highway 62, do not go as far as the main Tourist Center and Park entrance; instead turn right when in Yucca Valley and follow the sighs for the Camp. You will not need to purchase a Park pass to go there.
Park your car in front of the Black Rock Visitor Center and spend some time exploring it. It is the only place in the whole Park where you can buy some memorabilia (fridge magnets, backpack patches, etc) and postcard to send home, it has a water fountain to fill your bottles, and very helpful rangers that will give you all the information you may need to explore the area.
The map that the rangers provide is unfortunately not super detailed but their explanations are clear and the trails are very well indicated. If you feel full of energy and want to fill the day with a good 15-20 km hike, we suggest going for Warren Peak and Panorama Loop trail as we did. The West Side Loop trail and the Short Loop are easier hikes.
Warren Peak
From the Black Rock Camp follow the site camp number till you reach number 30: from there make a left pointing towards a big water tank and you will see the trail departing on your left. The first km is an easy walk, all flat and surrounded by cacti and Joshua trees. On your right you will see the trail head for the easiest West Side Loop: continue straight and the main trail for Warren Peak and Panorama Loop will open on your right after 500 m. The main trail is large and mainly flat, graveled, it traverse the Black Rock canyon and will get you used to the typical Park vegetation. It may be a bit monotonous (especially on the way beck…) but it is certainly worth what is expecting you after 5 km. Here the trail forks and on your left departs the Panorama Loop: our advise is, keep this one for later. You may want to continue on the right trail towards Warren Peak and Warren View.
The trails starts a gentle climb in between higher rocks, the vegetation becomes thicker, with bigger trees and bushes. After 5 km of this beautiful but gentle hike, assess your strengths and make a wise decision: you will find on your left the trail head for Warren View, a gentler ascension that will take you to 1500 m of heights but not to the top of the Peak. If you feel courageous and full of energy, continue to your right and start the strenuous 4.5 km climb towards the top.
The vegetation changes as you get higher, less trees and less shadow, so make the most of the sparse resting spots that you may find. Drink plenty of water and electrolytes and continue the climb at your pace.
It took us more or less 30 minutes to make it to the 1600 m top of the Peak, where only rocks welcome you to a breathtaking view that spans 360 degrees to all the Park.
Sit on top of the mountain and enjoy this well deserved panorama. To the far south the snowed peaks of the San Bernardino mountains make a nice frame to the valleys of Joshua trees and cacti.
Rest for some time, eat a granola bar or a banana and breath the fresh air. Take a lot of pictures and get ready for a steep descent. The trail is, of course, the same but much faster going down. Be very mindful of the unstable small rock under your feet and give way to people climbing up.
Once you passed the fork for the Warren View, this time on your right, you may want to pay attention to the trail for the Panorama Loop.
Panorama Loop
Still feeling energetic after the climb of the Peak? Invigorated and exhilarated by the heights? Then the Panorama Loop trail is exactly what you need to go back to base camp exhausted but happy.
Coming down from the Warren Peak, and after the right-hand trail for Warren View, you want to find the trail that departs on your right for Panorama Loop. If your sight is more acute than ours, you will be able to find the smaller trail that will allow you to make the Loop counter clock-wise; if you miss it, like we did, no big deal: continue for 3 more km and you will find the trail sharply forking to the right and see the sign for Panorama Loop.
Take this trail and you will be making the Loop clock-wise. Don’t be fooled by the easier ground at the beginning of the trail, with the plush vegetation and trees all around: the road will soon start a gradual but strenuous climb, the trees will change to small bushes and the to sparse sprouts of grass as you ascend for 1.5 km towards the top at 1600 m. Once you reach it, the trails lies on the ridge of the mountain and you will walk for 1 km with a view that spans to the underneath valleys both on your left and right.
Once the trail start descending to the side of the mountain, you will find yourself back into the plush vegetation of the lower heights. And soon you will close this 6 km Loop and find the way back to the main trail. Take a right and continue back the way you came from the Black Rock Camp, cutting the canyon and retracing your steps. As we said before, the final part an be a bit monotonous and boring, but water, food and a tent are waiting for you at the end of it!