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Lucern
The best way to see the architecture of Lucerne’s colourful Altstadt (old town) is on foot. This 2-kilometre walking route travels through both Neustadt (new town) and Altstadt. It takes about an hour to walk, depending on the time spent at each spot.
Begin at the Bahnhofplatz, the huge transit hub with a parking garage beneath. The Zentralstrasse, Lucerne’s main train station, is to the south. The original train station was destroyed by fire in early 1971. Its grand main entrance was saved and stands in the middle of the Bahnhofplatz, like a gateway to the city. To the east of the plaza is a huge building, one of the few modern-looking buildings in this part of the city, the Culture and Convention Center. Opened in 2000, the Kultur und Kongresszentrum Lucerne (or KKL Lucerne) has three parts: an 1840-seat concert hall, multi-function Lucerne Hall and the convention centre. There are a number of restaurants and cafes which are convenient to the dock on the lake. The striking, glass-and-steel building’s design has won international praise for the concert hall’s amazing acoustics. Its unique ceiling, special sound-absorbing doorways and an inaudible ventilation system create complete silence enriching performance sound.
Walk back to the Bahnhofplatz and continue west along the river to the 14th-century Kapellbrücke, one of Lucerne’s most recognized landmarks. The winding, wooden, covered bridge is over 200 metres long. It was built across the Reuss River as part of the city’s defensive system. Partway along the bridge, the 8-sided, stone Water Tower is original and older than the bridge. Over the centuries, the tower was used as the city treasury, dungeon prison and archive. A 1993 fire began in a boat moored to the bridge. The fire spread to the bridge destroying a large portion of it. Both ends of the bridge survived as did the stone tower. The tower’s gabbled roof was destroyed. Walk across a portion of the bridge to see the triangular roof panels. The original panels were painted in the 17th-century, recording the development of Lucerne and Switzerland up to that point. The 1993 fire burned 81 of the 111 panels. The panels found in the centre are originals which were in storage during the fire. The paintings were sponsored by wealthy families. To recognize their charity, the family coats of arms were added to the paintings.
Follow the river west to the Jesuitenkirche. The large, 17th-century church was the first Baroque church in Switzerland. Its two, onion-domed towers were added in 1893. It is dedicated to Francis Xavier, co-founder of the Jesuit order. While the exterior is Baroque, the interior was redone in the mid-18th century in Rococo style. The interior is beautiful. The ceiling murals celebrate Xavier’s life and afterlife. The church’s large organ is used by Lucerne’s music school. Enjoy the music if they happen to be practising.
Walk west on Bahnhofstrasse to the next intersection. To the left, at the end of the street is the Franziskanerkirche. The beautiful, 13th-century, Gothic-style church has a large pipe organ and stunning paintings. Over the centuries the interior has undergone extensive renovation but has kept its 17th-century choir stalls and the wooden pulpit.
Return to Bahnhofstrasse and continue west. Turn right onto Pfistergasse. Walk to almost the next major cross street. Turn right and walk through an arched entrance along a covered walkway. This leads to the next covered bridge.
The 15th-century, covered, pedestrian Spreuer Bridge is original. It is smaller Chapel Bridge and has avoided fire for more than 6 centuries. Its roof panels are a series of paintings, called Dance of Death by Kaspar Meglinger, created to remind the townspeople, who crossed the bridge daily, that death cannot be escaped regardless of social class. The far end of the bridge was designed for wagons delivering supplies to three mills nearby. Since the middle ages, there have been mills in this area harnessing the power of the river. A fire in 1875 destroyed all but one. It was removed in 1890 making way for the city’s first hydroelectric power plant. Those turbines generated power for 90 years. They were replaced by the current power plant in 1996. Look toward the lake. It receives its water from snow melt. A movable dam was designed in the mid-19th century to control lake levels and protect lakeside towns from flooding. In the spring, the dam is opened by removing wooden pickets, allowing the river to flow. As the lake’s water level drops, the wooden pickets are put back in place extending the dam across the river and slowing the flow. We visited in late May and the dam was partway across the river channel. By winter, the dam is entirely in place, cutting the flow to almost nothing across the main river channel. This keeps the lake level high enough for some boats.
From the bridge, walk to the right into the pedestrian square called the Muhlenplatz. This is the start of the old town. At the top of the square, turn right and walk a block to Weinmarktgasse. Walk a block to the pretty city square, the Weinmarkt. This was a marketplace for wine. The 15th-century fountain has carvings of soldiers. They were to remind citizens that the town was tough and strong. Enjoy the beautiful paintings on building fronts in the square.
Continue up the street to the Hirschenplatz. This square got its name from the Hirschen Hotel which is long gone. Its sign still hangs in the square. Turn right, walk a block then turn left onto Kornmarkt. Walk to the square outside the Rathaus Stradt beside the Town Hall clock. The first town council meeting was held in this late Renaissance-style town hall in 1606. The building continues to be used for council meetings.
Walk Furrengass to St. Peter’s Chapel. The bridge was called Kapellbrücke due to its proximity to church.
The Fritschibrunnen is in the plaza to the north of the church. Locals gather at this fountain early in the morning on the first Thursday seven weeks before Easter to start the Fasnacht festival. This is Lucerne’s annual Mardi Gras and one of their biggest parties of the year. There are parades, dancing, singing and drinking through the entire seven-day festival. Locals often take time off and visitors are encouraged to join in.
From St. Peter’s Chapel, walk east along the river to Lake Lucerne. Walk the sidewalk north and east following the lakeshore. The main street, Löwenstrasse, turns left. Follow it, turning immediately right onto St. Leodegarstrasse. Walk to the church with the beautiful bell towers. The beautiful, 17th-century late-Renaissance Hofkirche St Leodegar has twin, Gothic, bell towers. The church was part of a monastery founded in 750. A 1633 fire destroyed all but the bell towers. Inside, see the beautiful, white stonework and the vaulted ceiling. The 17th-century organ is one of Switzerland’s finest.
Walk back out to the main street, Löwenstrasse, and walk north about 4 blocks to the Lowenplatz and the Bourbaki Panorama.
The 10-metre-tall Bourbaki Panorama was painted in 1881 by Edouard Castres. It portrays, in a very lifelike, 360-degree view, the surrender of French troops to the neutral Swiss. At the end of the Franco-Prussian War in 1871, the French troops refused to surrender to the winning Germans. The panorama was touched up in the year 2000. Many panoramic theatres were built in the 19th century in Europe and the United States.
Walk to one of Lucerne’s more well-known tourist attractions, the Lowendenkmal, about a block north, on Denkmalstasse, the Lion Monument. The sculpture of a dying lion was carved into the stone, cliff-face in the 1820s. It is 10 metres long and 6 metres tall. It memorializes the Swiss soldiers who died defending King Louis 16th in the 1792 Paris attack during the French Revolution. This beautiful park was a sandstone quarry when the lion was carved.
Adjoining the park to the north is the Gletschergarten.
Sixteen potholes, called kettles, were revealed when glaciers melted in the area 20,000 years ago. In 1873, the Amrein family built the Glacier Garden around the kettles. Enjoy walking the paths through the rocks and plants. The Amreins collected all manner of items which are displayed in the museum’s eclectic collection. A mirror maze recreating Granada Spain’s Alhambra was created for the 1896 Geneva National Exhibition. It was moved to the garden in 1899.
Walk back down Denkmalstrasse to Lowenplatz. From the square, continue 2 blocks south to Hofstrasse. Turn right onto Museggstrasse. This street runs parallel to the watchtowers and old walls of the city constructed around 1400. Veer right onto Schirmertorweg and climb up to the Museggmauer. Walk the path on top of the old city ramparts, for stunning views of the city and Lake Lucerne. There are 9 stone towers, some open to the public. The wall and the towers (including the Schirmerturm, Männliturm, Wachtturm, Zytturm) date back to late 14th century.
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Hong Kong
Day 1 - Hong Kong Park and East Promenade
The Hong Kong Park is one of the most unique parks in the world, having been designed to highlight its artificial elements, including the square with the fountain, the greenhouse, the ponds and waterfalls (favored by couples getting married in the marriage office inside the park), the playground, and the taichi garden. The park covers an area of 8 hectares and, despite its artificiality, is very beautiful; bordered by a wall of skyscrapers on one side and mountains on the other, it is an excellent subject for spectacular photographs.
Take the Start Ferry towards Kowloon.
A visit to Hong Kong is not complete without a ride on the Star Ferry, a legendary fleet of diesel-electric ferries with names like Morning Star and Twinkling Star. The 10-minute crossing, spectacular at any time of day thanks to the enchanting view of the skyscrapers and mountains, is probably the cheapest cruise in the world. Upon arrival, a crew member throws the mooring rope to a colleague who catches it with a hooked pole, just as in 1888 when the first ship docked.
The Star Ferry was established in 1888 by Dorabjee Nowrojee, a Parsi originally from Bombay. At that time, almost all local residents crossed the harbor on sampans. Nowrojee bought a steamboat for private use and made it the first Star Ferry. Parsis believe in the Persian religion of Zoroastrianism, of which the five-pointed star in the Star Ferry logo is an ancient symbol.
In 1910, near the Kowloon Concourse, the Kowloon-Canton Railway was built to connect Hong Kong with the mainland. On Christmas Day 1941, the governor of the colony took the ferry to Tsim Sha Tsui, where he surrendered to the Japanese in the halls of the Peninsula Hotel. Today, you can still see the Clock Tower, the clock tower of the original railway station. In 1966, thousands of people gathered at the Tsim Sha Tsui pier to oppose a proposal to increase ferry fares by 5 cents. The demonstration led to a riot on Nathan Rd, the first in a long series of social unrest that led to colonial reforms.
The Hong Kong Island pier is a rather nondescript Edwardian reproduction of the old Edinburgh PI pier (which had a clock tower), demolished despite strong opposition from city residents. The Kowloon pier, on the other hand, has remained unchanged.
Tsim Sha Tsui (TST), which means ‘sharp, sandy promontory,’ is a vibrant district occupying the southern tip of the Kowloon Peninsula. Renowned mainly for its shops and restaurants, it is also rich in museums and performance spaces. With a population composed of Chinese, Indians, Filipinos, Nepalese, Africans, and Europeans, this is the most cosmopolitan area in Hong Kong.
A good starting point for a walk is the Former Kowloon-Canton Railway (KCR) Clock Tower (p25), near the Star Ferry Concourse. The red brick and granite tower is a monument to the steam engine era. The clocks started operating on March 22, 1921, and have only stopped during the Japanese occupation.
The splendid view of Victoria Harbour makes this walk one of the most beautiful in Hong Kong. Walk it during the day to take photographs, visit museums, and observe the hustle and bustle of boats, loving couples, and tourists. After sunset, as you go to dinner or take the Star Ferry, you’ll see it magically transform, with skyscrapers shining in neon lights.
Beyond the Cultural Centre and the Museum of Art, you reach the Avenue of Stars, Hong Kong’s understated tribute to the past glories of its film industry, where the 2.5-meter-tall bronze statue of Bruce Lee stands out. Almost all of this area will remain closed for renovation until the end of 2018. Just past the Avenue of Stars, there are stairs and an elevator leading to the charming Tsim Sha Tsui East Podium Garden and the Middle Road Children’s Playground.
From the Promenade, every evening you can admire the Symphony of Lights, a somewhat kitschy light and music show that starts at 20:00. Pieces of Chinese classical music play in time with flashes of light emitted by the skyscrapers of Hong Kong Island across the harbor.
Day 2 - The forgotten streets of Wan Chai
Once, the coastline of Wan Chai ran close to the tram tracks on Johnston Rd, but after extensive reclamation works, it was moved further north. During that era, the area of Queen’s Rd East and Johnston Rd was a fishing village with shrines and temples overlooking the sea. After the arrival of the British, some shipyards were built along the bay, and the European residents who could not afford to live on Victoria Peak began to build their homes on the hills south of Queen’s Rd East. Despite the new Wan Chai being a spectacular commercial district with skyscrapers and five-star hotels, for those who love to explore, the area south of the tram tracks is certainly more interesting.
A short walk along Stone Nullah Lane will lead you to the majestic temple built in 1863 in honor of the Taoist sea god Pak Tai. The imposing temple, the largest on Hong Kong Island, has a roof decorated with Shíwán ceramic statues inspired by Cantonese opera and is representative of the Lingnan style (i.e., the architecture of the Cantonese area). The main temple houses a 3-meter tall copper statue of Pak Tai, crafted during the Ming dynasty.
Hidden in a corner on the south side of Queen’s Rd East, this dark and austere temple is built on the rocks that once dominated the harbor. It was erected around 1847 in honor of a Tang dynasty official venerated as a deity, famous for his virtue (an important quality) and for his ability to make useful predictions for traders (an even more precious quality).
The Blue House, built in the 1920s, and the adjacent Yellow House and Orange House form a historic complex known as ‘Viva Blue House’. The most beautiful, the Blue House, is an elegant four-story building with Spanish-style wrought iron balconies reminiscent of New Orleans. It now houses a candy store, a renovated osteopathic clinic, and sanitary facilities for the dozen or so residents.
Day - Tian Tan Buddha
With its 23 m (10 floors), the Tian Tan Buddha, standing on the Ngong Ping Plateau on Lantau Island, is the tallest seated bronze Buddha statue in the world. It can be seen arriving by plane in Hong Kong, and even from Macau on clear days, but the best way to appreciate this revered spiritual icon located 500 m high on the western hills of Lantau is to see it up close.
‘Big Buddha’ Inaugurated in 1993, this immense depiction of Siddhartha Gautama was created by China Aerospace Science and Technology, the company that designs Chinese spacecraft. It is definitely worth climbing the 268 steps to admire the statue and the surrounding panorama up close. On the second level of the pedestal, there is a tiny room where oil paintings and ceramic plaques inspired by the life and teachings of the Buddha are exhibited. The computerized big bell inside the Buddha rings 108 times during the day to symbolize the escape from the 108 problems of humanity. Visitors must wear decorous clothes and adopt appropriate behavior. It is forbidden to bring meat and alcohol into the complex. The anniversary of the Buddha’s birth, a holiday that falls in April or May, is a wonderful time to visit the site, a destination for thousands of pilgrims.
The Po Lin Monastery, a vast Buddhist complex built in 1924, today is more of a tourist attraction than a place of worship. Most of the buildings seen entering are new, while behind them are the older ones.
The most spectacular way to reach the high ground is the Ngong Ping 360 cable car, 5.7 km long, connecting Ngong Ping with Tung Chung along the hill. The journey over the bay and mountains takes 25 minutes.
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Madrid
Day 1 - Old Madrid
Unless you want to visit the major art galleries first, the best place to start exploring Madrid is the Puerta del Sol Square, officially considered the center of the city. Before you start, we advise you to stop at La Mallorquina to have breakfast with a delicious pastry and coffee.
Go up Calle de Preciados and take the second street on the left, leading you to Plaza de las Descalzas. Here, you can admire the baroque portal of the Caja de Madrid Palace, built by the will of King Philip V in 1733 and located in front of the Convent of Descalzas Reales. Continuing south, you’ll reach the San Ginés Church on Calle de los Bordadores, built on the site of one of Madrid’s oldest Christian places of worship, dating back to at least the 14th century. Behind this church is the magnificent Chocolatería de San Ginés, revered by churros and chocolate lovers. Continue to Calle Mayor, cross it, and you’ll arrive at the splendid Plaza Mayor.
After having coffee in the square, head back to Calle Mayor and proceed west to the historic Plaza de la Villa, where the sixteenth-century Ayuntamiento (City Hall) of Madrid is located. On the same square, you’ll find the Casa de Cisneros, built in the 16th century, and the Gothic Casa de los Lujanes, one of the oldest buildings in the city.
Then, take the street alongside the left side of the Casa de Cisneros. Once you reach the end of Calle del Sacramento, cross it, go down the stairs, and follow the cobblestone Calle del Cordón to Calle de Segovia. You’ll almost be in front of the Mudéjar-style tower of the fifteenth-century Iglesia de San Pedro El Viejo.
Continuing along Costanilla de San Pedro, you’ll reach the San Isidro Museum, next to the Iglesia de San Andrés, which, for a time, held the remains of Madrid’s patron saint, San Isidro Labrador. From here, you can cross Plaza de la Puerta de Moros and head southwest to reach the Basilica de San Francisco el Grande
From San Francisco el Grande, wander through the small maze of alleys that once made up the Moorish quarter to emerge on Calle de Bailén, where you’ll find delightful terraces. The Ventorrillo Bar (Corral de la Moreria) is probably the terrace in the happiest position, on the edge of the Jardines de las Vistillas. This is a magnificent place to relax while enjoying views of the Sierra de Guadarrama.
After a refreshing beer, follow the viaduct north to reach the Cathedral of Our Lady of Almudena, the Royal Palace, and the Plaza de Oriente, adorned with statues, fountains, and hedge mazes. The eastern side of the square is bordered by the Royal Theater.
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The northern end of Calle de Bailen runs along the Senate. The Senate Palace represents the 17 regions of the country and the Spanish enclaves in North Africa (Ceuta and Melilla). It was converted in the 19th century from a sixteenth-century monastery, underwent significant modifications in the 1840s and again in the 1950s. The modern extension facing Calle de Bailén was built between 1987 and 1991. Continuing from Plaza de España along Calle de Ferraz, you’ll reach the Cerralbo Museum, where you can explore a curious collection, and then the Temple of Debod, an ancient temple transferred here from Egypt.
Return to Plaza de España; the eastern side marks the beginning of Gran Vía, a long avenue reminiscent of the boulevards in Paris. Approximately halfway down Gran Vía, you’ll notice the imposing Telefonica building, easily identifiable as it sits on a hill. At the eastern end of Gran Vía stands the superb dome of the Metropolis Building.
Return to Plaza de España; the eastern side marks the beginning of Gran Vía, a long avenue reminiscent of the boulevards in Paris. Approximately halfway down Gran Vía, you’ll notice the imposing Telefonica building, easily identifiable as it sits on a hill. At the eastern end of Gran Vía stands the superb dome of the Metropolis Building. Continuing east along Calle de Alcalá, you’ll arrive at Plaza de Cibeles, the beloved roundabout for Madrileños. Approaching this square, you’ll see the proud late nineteenth-century building housing Banco de España on the right, while on the left, you’ll notice the gardens of the majestic Buenavista Palace, now the headquarters of the Armed Forces and the Ministry of Defense.
Cross Paseo del Prado to reach the Prado Museum, or continue to Calle de las Huertas (across the tiny Plaza de Platería Martínez). The seventeenth-century Convento de las Trinitarias, where the writer Miguel de Cervantes rests (unfortunately not open to the public), is located. Turn right along Costanilla de las Trinitarias and head north along Calle de San Agustín to Calle de Cervantes, where you’ll turn left. At number 11, you’ll find the Casa de Lope de Vega, the famous Spanish playwright. At the end of Calle de Cervantes, turning left into Calle de León, you’ll find yourself back on Calle de las Huertas. Along this street, in Plaza de Santa Ana and the surrounding alleys, you’ll find numerous places to sit and rest.
Day 2 - Parque del Buen Retiro
After a challenging tour of nearby art galleries, a great way to relax is to immerse yourself in the scaled-down Madrid version of Central Park.
Parque del Buen Retiro is a popular meeting place for families, clowns, bongo players, couples arm in arm, and walking enthusiasts. The gardens are especially busy on weekends when street performers showcase their talents. Once reserved for kings, queens, and court members, the park is now open to everyone. Visitors can also rent rowboats (€4 for 45 minutes) to take a ride on the artificial lake (estanque), dominated by the imposing structure of the mausoleum of Alfonso XII. On the western shore of the lake, you’ll notice a unique structure decorated by Singi: this is the Fuente Egipcia (Egyptian Fountain), where, according to legend, a vast fortune buried by Philip V in the mid-18th century is said to be hidden. However, park authorities have assured us that this is a purely fictional story. On weekends, around the same lake, artists, fortune-tellers, and card readers set up. A couple of structures near the park host art and photography exhibitions, particularly Palacio de Exposiciones. In the summer, puppet shows are also organized (look for the sign ‘Tiritilandia,’ which means ‘Puppetland’). The Palacio de Cristal (2 91 574 66 14; 11-20 from Monday to Saturday, 11-18 on Sunday and holidays from May to September, 10-18 from Monday to Saturday, 10-16 on Sunday and holidays from October to April), a beautiful metal and glass structure located south of the lake, was built in 1887 as a winter garden for exotic flowers. Occasionally, the palace is also used as an exhibition space.
Not far away, the Palacio de Velázquez (@ 91 573 62 45; observes the same hours as the Palacio de Cristal) was built in 1883 for an exhibition on the mining industry and is now used for temporary exhibitions. Another building that occasionally serves a similar purpose is the Casa de Vacas (2 91 409 58 19; (3 11-22). At the southern end of the park, near La Rosaleda (rose garden), a statue dedicated to El Ángel Caído (the Fallen Angel, i.e., Lucifer) has been placed, giving the place a slightly eerie touch. The southwestern end of the park is a well-known meeting point for young homosexuals.
Day 3 - Toledo
Toledo lacks a true city center; however, Plaza de Zocodover, at the northeastern end of the old city, is a good starting point for your visit. This oddly-shaped square was once the site of an Arab livestock market, and more recently, the main market of the city. Nowadays, it is adorned with café terraces and crowded with tourists on day trips. From here, the imposing fortress of the Alcázar is just a short walk away, it will houses the collection of the Museo del Ejército from Madrid, further expanding the already extensive collection of weapons here.
This site, the highest point in Toledo, was initially a Roman military base, then an Arab fortress, and finally Christian after the reconstruction by Alfonso VI in the 11th century. Later, Charles V converted the squarely structured building into a royal palace and used it to accommodate his guests until it was damaged by a fire in 1710. The palace burned again in 1810 (by Napoleon) and was almost completely destroyed during the Spanish Civil War. When Franco ordered its reconstruction, it was transformed into the military museum you can admire today. This site, the highest point in Toledo, was initially a Roman military base, then an Arab fortress, and finally Christian after the reconstruction by Alfonso VI in the 11th century. Later, Charles V converted the squarely structured building into a royal palace and used it to accommodate his guests until it was damaged by a fire in 1710. The palace burned again in 1810 (by Napoleon) and was almost completely destroyed during the Spanish Civil War. When Franco ordered its reconstruction, it was transformed into the military museum you can admire today.
Nearby is the Cathedral, one of the richest and most majestic churches in the world. The essentially Gothic building, with some Mudéjar additions, was constructed in the 13th century on the site of a former mosque. Toledo’s role as the seat of the Church in Spain ensured the cathedral a wide array of patrons, and wealthy Catholics left their mark in the sumptuous decorations visible everywhere. It’s worth exploring all the chapels and side rooms, but the Capilla de la Tome (Tower Chapel) in the northwest corner and the Sacristía (Sacristy) deserve a bit more attention. The latter boasts a graceful vaulted ceiling and a small gallery with works by the painter El Greco (see reading on this page), while the Tower Chapel houses one of the most extraordinary monstrances in existence, the Custodia de Arfe, dating back to the 16th century. With 18 kg of gold and 183 kg of silver, this sparkling mass of metal features a staggering 260 statuettes. Other noteworthy places include the impressive main altar, the Transparente window, and the choir stalls.
To the southwest of the cathedral is the Judería (Jewish quarter), home to the synagogues of the old city and the heart of the route that retraces the life and works of the painter El Greco. The first stop is the Iglesia de Santa Tomé, where one of El Greco’s masterpieces, El Entierro del Conde de Orgaz (The Burial of the Count of Orgaz), is displayed. The painting tells the legend of the pious count’s funeral in 1323 when St. Augustine and St. Stephen appeared to bury the body in the tomb. The bearded man immediately above St. Stephen (the younger of the two saints in golden clothes) could be a self-portrait of the painter.
Continue El Greco’s itinerary and head towards the Casa-Museo del Greco. This house is not necessarily where the painter lived, but it is decorated in the style of the time. At least twenty of his minor works are exhibited here, along with paintings by his contemporaries. More works by the painter can be found in the Museo de Santa Cruz, near Plaza de Zocodover.
Born in Crete in 1541, Domenikos Theotokopoulos (El Greco) moved to Venice in 1567 to apprentice as a Renaissance artist. Under the influence of masters like Tintoretto, he learned to paint dramatic scenes with few colors, directing the observer’s interest to the faces of the characters he portrayed, leaving the rest in relative darkness—a characteristic that later became one of his distinctive traits. Starting in 1572, he devoted himself to the study of Roman Mannerism and the works left by Michelangelo.
Theotokopoulos arrived in Toledo in 1577 with the hope of securing a commission at El Escorial, but things took a different turn as Philip II did not want him as a court artist. In Toledo, the painter began to work in a style completely different from that of local artists, attracting a wealthy clientele willing to pay high prices for his works. His high opinion of himself and his work, however, drew the hostility of the cathedral administrators, the first among many clients to drag the artist to court to justify his decidedly high fees.
El Greco enjoyed a luxurious lifestyle and took up residence on Paseo del Tránsito, where his meals were often accompanied by performances by musicians. With the decline of Toledo’s fortunes, El Greco’s economic situation also suffered a setback. Although his later works are among his most beautiful, the painter often struggled to gather the money needed to pay rent. He died in 1614, leaving traces of his presence throughout the city, where many of his masterpieces are still located.
Beyond the Casa-Museo del Greco, you will encounter the interesting Museo Sefardí, housed in the Synagogue of El Tránsito, one of the best-preserved remnants of Jewish Spain. This peculiar combination of names refers to the ‘Virgen del Tránsito,’ the name given to this place of worship when it was consecrated as a Christian church. Some breathtaking sculptures adorn the walls, and the museum is an ideal place to deepen your knowledge of Jewish life in medieval Spain.
For a glimpse into Muslim Toledo, head to the Cristo de la Luz Mosque. During the Muslim rule, there were 10 mosques in the city, but this one, a characteristic example of their style, is the only survivor. Don’t miss the horseshoe-shaped arches, both inside and outside, and the inscriptions on the interior walls.
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San Francisco
Day 1
Climb aboard the Powell-Mason cable car for an exciting ride. Get off at North Beach and visit Coit Tower (p56) to see innovative murals and breathtaking 360-degree views. Ascend the scenic Filbert Street Steps (p57) to the sunny Embarcadero waterfront, then dive into total darkness at the Tactile Dome in the Exploratorium (p53). Enjoy sensational fish tacos at Mijita (p79) in the Ferry Building (p78), then take the pre-booked ferry to Alcatraz (p51), the infamous maximum-security prison where inmates lived in tiny solitary cells. After touring the former prison, head to North Beach, where you can browse books at City Lights (p71), the symbolic bookstore of free speech, and see the Beat Museum’s (p60) collection of memorabilia.
Day 2
Take the California St cable car to Grant St to experience Chinatown.
The 41 historic alleys that border the 22 blocks of Chinatown have seen it all since 1849: gold rushes and revolutions, incense and opium, fires and hostilities. Chinese miners were among the first to arrive in San Francisco for the gold rush, but after 1870, anti-Asian laws restricted migration and made it harder to find work and housing. People of Chinese descent were denied the right to own property and participate in labor unions; many had to resort to dangerous jobs, such as building railway tunnels blasted with explosives in the mountains. White owners of Chinatown buildings made huge profits from the opium dens in Duncombe Alley and the brothels in Ross Alley. When the 1906 earthquake and fire devastated Chinatown, construction entrepreneurs persuaded the city to evacuate Chinese residents. However, with the support of the Chinese consulate and local merchants, and armed with pistols, Chinatown residents resisted the expulsion order and even returned to rebuild their community. Family associations closed opium dens and brothels, and in the 1920s, merchants renovated the neighborhood to attract tourists. Today, mahjong is still played at 36 Spofford Alley, where Sun Yat-sen once planned the revolution.
Cross the ‘Dragon Gate,’ donated by Taiwan in 1970, and you’ll find yourself in Dupont, a street once notorious for its red-light district.
The ‘Chinese-deco’ architecture beyond the gate, featuring pagoda-roofed buildings, is the result of a group of enlightened entrepreneurs led by Look Tin Ely, who transformed the street from a prostitution area into a shopping district in the 1920s. Today, dragon-shaped lanterns illuminate souvenir shops and tea houses in the area.
Stop for tea tastings at Red Blossom and the collection at the Chinese Historical Society of America. Stroll through Waverly Place with its temples, and Ross Alley, where you can buy fortune cookies from Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Company.
This bakery bakes custom cookies (50¢ each) using antique pastry presses. Alternatively, you can purchase a pack of risqué fortune cookies. They only accept cash, and a 50¢ tip is required for taking photographs.
Choose your favorite Chinese dumplings at City View, then climb the hill, pass by the ‘parlor houses’ (i.e., brothels) from the gold rush era.
Forget about car chase scenes from movies (such as “Vertigo,” “What’s Up, Doc?”) and commercials shot in San Francisco: the best way to reach Lombard Street isn’t by car but by cable car. The Powell-Hyde line reaches Nob Hill and then climbs Russian Hill, passing millionaires’ mansions and secret staircases lined with gardens. Get off at Lombard for an unbeatable view from the hill. From the highest point of Lombard Street, you might get dizzy: this zigzagging paved road descending Russian Hill has eight sharp turns and a steep slope of 27%. It might not be the ‘crookedest street in the world’ as commonly claimed (that title goes to Vermont Street on Potrero Hill), but you get the idea. The street appears in Hitchcock’s movie “Vertigo,” and skateboarding legend Tony Hawk included these twists and turns in his Pro Skater video game. If you’re not up for driving, you can walk down the 250 steps; it’s equally scenic.
Back in the roaring ’20s, too many drunk people ended up with their cars in the gardens of Russian Hill houses. So, the homeowners decided to add eight sharp turns adorned with flowerbeds, transforming this extremely dangerous shortcut into a picturesque route. The result is what you see today: a red-bricked paved street, bordered by beautifully manicured flowerbeds and flanked by 250 steps.
Those brave enough to navigate Lombard Street’s perilous turns miss out on the view of the Golden Gate Bridge enjoyed from the winding paths of Sterling Park atop the hill. The sunset framed by wind-kissed Monterey pines is pure poetry and befits the park’s namesake, the penniless bohemian poet George Sterling, a nature lover, advocate of free love, and opium enthusiast. San Francisco’s high society was not scandalized by his eccentricities and dedicated this park to him.
From the winding Lombard Street you will arrive at the Fisherman’s Wharf. Once upon a time, fishermen cast their nets here, but today it’s the tourists who are hooked: this commercial park stretches from the cable car terminus to the pier where cruises to Alcatraz depart. When you least expect it, Fisherman’s Wharf will offer you pleasant surprises. Here, you can sunbathe next to the sea lions, ride the carousels’ unicorns, enter a World War II submarine, have your fortune told by a wooden fortune teller, and watch sharks swim while you’re safely enclosed in glass tubes in the middle of the bay.
Even the stars dream of the sea lion life in San Francisco, which since 1990, has occupied a part of the tourist port where yachts dock. California law requires boats to give space to these mammals: therefore, from January to July, boat owners must give up their berths at Pier 39 to allow about 1300 sea lions to enjoy the sun undisturbed. They are the envy of all beach bums!
USS Pampanito All aboard! Enter this World War II military submarine that sank six Japanese ships, including two carrying British and Australian prisoners of war. The tales of tension while the submarine was submerged will leave you breathless (be careful if you suffer from claustrophobia), and all those brass knobs and hydraulic valves will make 21st-century technology seem overrated.
Day 3
Strange but true: the San Francisco icon project came close to being rejected by the Navy in favor of a cement bridge with yellow-striped pillars. The mind behind this masterpiece in 1937 was engineer Joseph B. Strauss, but architects Gertrude and Irving Murrow deserve credit for the elegant Art Deco style and the distinctive color known as ‘international orange.’ Before the US Department of War could object, workers got to work, constructing the nearly 3 km-long span and 200 m-tall pillars in just four years.
San Francisco residents passionately defend their perspective on things, especially the city’s icon. Those who prefer foggy landscapes might say that Marin’s Vista Point, to the north, offers the most beautiful panoramic view, where clouds seem to perform acrobatics like Olympic gymnasts on the bridge cables. From Crissy Field, you can appreciate the entire span (and capture windsurfing and kitesurfing in your photos), while at Baker Beach, a beach frequented by nudists, you can admire the bridge in all its grandeur.
To see both sides of the Golden Gate, bike or walk along the span. A pedestrian path runs from the toll booth to the east sidewalk (pedestrian access 5 am-6:30 pm every day) starting from the parking lot and bus stop. Near the toll booth, there is a network of sturdy suspended cables, bearing the weight of thousands of buses and cars passing through here every day. If you don’t want to walk back, take a Golden Gate Transit bus departing from Marin. Bicycles have access to the bridge 24/7 from either the west or east sidewalk, but they must yield to pedestrians on the east sidewalk. When crossing the bridge, electric bikes must be used with the motor turned off.
Built in 1861 with 126 cannons, Fort Point was meant to deter Confederate soldiers during the Civil War but never saw military action; instead, it served as the backdrop for Hitchcock’s film “Vertigo.” Enjoy the view and read the panels about the Civil War.
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Amsterdam
Amsterdam is a city that enchants in various ways: with its typical gabled houses dating back to the Golden Age, with the shimmering canals dotted with boats, and even more so with the centuries-old and cozy bruin cafés (smoke-stained pubs) illuminated by candles, where beer flows freely. Art enthusiasts will find few other cities with such a variety of masterpieces: just think of the richness of the collections housed in the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum, the Stedelijk Museum, and the Hermitage. For music lovers, there is a rich lineup of internationally acclaimed concerts, which invariably sell out. For those attracted to the more daring aspects, there are the women in the windows in the red-light district and the coffee shops selling cannabis. Amsterdam is an extremely compact and accessible city, with a limited center to explore on foot and characteristic alleys that always hide some surprises: a hidden garden, an antique book market, a seventeenth-century distillery – authentic microcosms where nothing ever presents itself the same way twice.
Day 1
Framed by a new, sparkling glass entrance, the museum housing the world’s most extensive collection of Van Gogh’s works encompasses a magnificent series of masterpieces. Starting from the artist’s early experimental canvases, the museum traces his life, from the phase dominated by the joyful hues of sunflowers to the dark cloud that later descended upon him and his works. The museum also houses paintings by contemporary artists to Van Gogh, such as Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Monet, and Bernard. The lines to enter can be endless; tickets purchased in advance online and discount cards allow access through separate entrances where the line moves faster.
The Rijksmuseum is the most important Dutch art museum: a heritage of works by Rembrandt, Vermeer, and 7,500 masterpieces by other artists spread along 1.5 km of galleries. If you want to avoid the peak of the crowd, we recommend arriving at the museum after 3 PM, or booking tickets online to access a separate entrance with a quicker flow. The highlight of the collection consists of works from the Golden Age: the subjects of still lifes, gentlemen with pleated collars, and landscapes suffused with a pale yellow light are a true feast for the eyes. The centerpiece of the exhibition is Rembrandt’s “The Night Watch” (1642). Initially titled “Company of Captain Frans Banning Cocq,” the painting assumed its current name only a few years later, after it darkened due to a layer of dirt that evoked the evening light. Don’t miss the blue and white Delft ceramics, the incredibly detailed dollhouses, and the brand-new Asian Pavilion. The sculpture garden surrounding the building is free to enter.
The Dutch consume more than 14 kg of cheese per person every year, mostly sold by De Kaaskamer, where wheels of gouda, edam, and other local varieties form towering stacks that reach the ceiling. The name means “Cheese Room,” and indeed, the place seems to overflow with a wide variety of Dutch and organic cheeses, as well as olives, tapenade, salads, and other products perfect for a picnic. Before making a purchase, you can taste the products; if you can’t take home a wheel of Gouda, at least buy a baguette with cheese and/or deli meat for takeout.
Once you reach Spui Square, just after the American Book Center, you’ll notice a modest wooden door: open it and take a look at the hidden little village called Begijnhof (p44), with its two ancient churches and gardens. Cross the courtyard to the entrance on the opposite side.
This sheltered complex of small houses and tiny gardens was built in the 14th century around the convent for the Beguines, a Catholic order of single or widowed women who cared for the elderly and led a religious life without taking monastic vows. The last true Beguine died in 1971.
Cross the courtyard to the entrance on the opposite side. From Begijnhof, head north for a short distance to the Civic Guard Gallery, filled with portraits of men with pleated collars and stern expressions.
Walk through the gallery and exit into the courtyard of the Amsterdam Museum on Kalverstraat. Continue down Kalverstraat to the Royal Palace, the residence of King Willem-Alexander and Queen Máxima; take a peek at the lavish interiors. Built in 1665 as a sumptuous town hall, in 1808 it became the residence of Napoleon’s brother, who was crowned the King of Holland. The imposing building boasts splendid interiors and magnificent marble decorations, including the inlaid floor with world maps in the grand burgerzaal (civic hall) at its center. At the entrance desk, you can obtain a free audio guide that explains in detail everything you will see. King Willem-Alexander only uses the Royal Palace for ceremonies; check the website for closing periods.
Next door is the New Church, where the Dutch monarchs are crowned. This late Gothic basilica from the 15th century is the place where Dutch monarchs are traditionally crowned and is newer only compared to the Oude (Old) Kerk. Several monumental elements dominate the sparse interior of the church: a magnificent oak wood inlaid chancel, a choir screen in bronze, an imposing organ, and an immense stained glass window depicting historical scenes. The building is also used to host exhibitions and organ concerts. Opening hours and ticket prices vary depending on the ongoing event.
Then, follow the bustling Nieuwendiik and walk to Zoutsteeg. At this point, try to overcome your aversion to raw fish and taste the famous Dutch herring at Rob Wigboldus Vishandel, a tiny place with only three tables. Leave Zoutsteeg and continue on Damrak. Cross Damrak and reach the side of Dam Square where the Nationaal Monument stands. Walk amidst the sea of bicycles, positioning yourself behind the monument to see the urns containing soil from World War II cemeteries.
Follow the road behind the NH Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky that leads to Wynand Fockink, a Dutch gin distillery dating back to 1679. This small tasting room, located in a covered gallery behind the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky, has been serving rivers of jenever and liqueurs since 1679. It doesn’t have chairs or stools, but it’s a pleasant and intimate place to have a drink or two with friends. On weekends (at 3 PM, 4:30 PM, 6 PM, and 7:30 PM), a guided tour of the distillery takes place; conducted in English, it includes six tastings (€17.50, no reservation required).
The bartender will fill your glass to the brim, so follow the Dutch way and lean down to take the first sip: this way, you’ll avoid spilling any drops.
Day 2
In the former Heineken brewery, you can now take part in a self-guided tour, the highlight of which (aside from the tastings included in the price) is the multimedia area where visitors are shaken, sprayed with water, and finally subjected to heat, mimicking the process the beer undergoes. True beer enthusiasts might find it horrifying, but it’s a very fun experience. The entrance ticket includes a 15-minute boat ride that shuttles between the Heineken Brand Store, near Rembrandtplein.
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Berlin
Day 1 - Mitte
Berlin is an ideal city for those who love walking because, despite its considerable size, it is compact and divided into well-defined neighborhoods, each with its own points of interest and attractions easily reachable on foot. “Day 1- Mitte” is a perfect walk if you are visiting the city for the first time, as it covers the main monuments and famous places in the capital. To understand how the urban landscape has changed since reunification, follow the “Day 2 – Contemporary Architecture” itinerary. Enjoy your walks!
This itinerary, which requires a full day, covers all the classic monuments of Berlin and some fabulous spots in the city that are less known. Along the way, you will see picturesque views, impressive architecture, inviting local eateries to grab a bite, and numerous places you probably know from history books. The itinerary starts from Potsdamer Platz and winds through the new ministerial quarter, reaches Unter den Linden, and then continues through the historic center, ending in Scheunenviertel.
So, start from Potsdamer Platz, the newest area of Berlin, a true showcase of contemporary architecture. Storefront of urban renewal, Potsdamer Platz is perhaps the most visible symbol of the “new Berlin” and a major tourist attraction. This historic square was once a bustling crossroads that became synonymous with metropolitan life and entertainment in the early 20th century. In 1924, Europe’s first traffic light (which operated manually) was installed here, a copy of which has recently been placed in its original location. World War II drained all life from Potsdamer Platz, and the entire area was frozen, cut in two by the Wall, until reunification. In the 1990s, the city administration engaged the best international talents in contemporary architecture, including Arata Isozaki, Rafael Moneo, Richard Rogers, and Helmut Jahn, to realize ‘Potsdamer Platz – Part Two’ as part of architect Renzo Piano’s overall project. Constrained by the city’s zoning regulations, the final result cannot be described as avant-garde, but it is pleasant and, above all, human-scale.
Berliners and visitors have warmly embraced this new urban development, which is divided into three parts: DaimlerCity, the Sony Center, and the Beisheim Center. DaimlerCity, which extends south of Potsdamer Strasse, was the first project to be completed in 1998. The Sony Center, nestled between Potsdamer Strasse, Ben-Gurion-Strasse, and Bellevuestrasse, was inaugurated in 2000. The last of the three projects, the Beisheim Center, is the most recent, opened in 2004, and occupies the triangle formed by Lenné-, Bellevue-, and Ebertstrasse. If you want to get a bird’s-eye view of the area, you can take what is considered the ‘fastest elevator in the world’ at Panorama Punkt
Take a look at the stretches of the Berlin Wall. The word “wall” does not describe the full extent of the barrier which cut Berlin into two halves from 1961 to 1989. The Berlin Wall was, in fact, a wide corridor between two walls. One wall marked the actual border on the west side of the corridor, while a second wall closed off the corridor to the east. The death strip, which included a narrow sentry path for the border guards of the GDR, lay in between. In the inner city, the corridor separated the old city centre along its northern, western and southern boundaries from the West-Berlin districts of Wedding, Tier-garten and Kreuzberg. Today a twin row of cobble-stones stretching several kilometres marks the exact location of the former border wall, and is being gradually extended. The Wall that encircled West-Berlin for almost thirty years had a total length of 160 kilometres. Of these, 45 kilometres separated the west from the east part of the city, while a stretch of 115 kilometres cut it off completely from the neighbouring Land of Brandenburg. More than 100 sites commemorating the victims and particular Wall-related incidents are spread along this route today. In 2001, the Berlin Senate launched its “Berlin Wall Trail” project with the aim of gradually making the entire 160 kilometers of the former Wall accessible to pedestrians and cyclists. Signs indicate the direction, aerial views afford an overall perspective, and information points highlight historically significant sites, thereby complementing the information boards installed by the Geschichtsmeile Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall History Mile) initiative.
Continue north along Ebertstrasse to the Holocaust Mahnmal 5 (p83), the memorial for the victims of the Holocaust, a visually and emotionally impactful work, especially if you take the time to wander among the tall concrete blocks, appreciating their expressive power.
It took 17 years of discussions, planning, and construction, but finally, on May 8, 2005, the Monument to the Jewish victims of the Nazi genocide during the Second World War was inaugurated. Generally known as the Holocaust Memorial, it occupies a space comparable to a soccer field immediately south of the Brandenburg Gate. The New York architect Peter Eisenmann conceived a vast grid of 2,711 rectangular concrete blocks of varying heights placed on undulating terrain, resembling a kind of giant cemetery. Visitors have unrestricted access to this labyrinth from any point and can move independently.
At first glance, the monument may appear sober and emotionally detached, but give yourself time to appreciate the complexity of the project, to experience the coldness of the stone structures, and to observe the play of light and shadow. To learn more about the tragic historical period to which the monument refers, visit the underground Information Center (Ort der Information), whose entrance is on the eastern side. The timeline graph of the persecution of Jews during the Third Reich is followed by rooms that document the personal history of some victims and entire families through documents.
In a darkened room, the names of the victims and their dates of birth and death are projected onto the four walls, while a low voice reads their brief biographies. It takes nearly seven years of uninterrupted reading to honor the memory of the victims of the extermination.
Continuing north along Karl-Liebknecht-Str and Ebertstrasse, you will arrive at the moving Monument to the Victims of the Wall, erected in memory of those who died trying to escape from the DDR. Just a few steps from the monument stands the imposing Reichstag, the seat of the German parliament.
The Reichstag became the seat of the Bundestag, the German Parliament, in 1999 when the restoration overseen by Lord Norman Foster was completed. The renowned English architect transformed the 1894 building, designed by Paul Wallot, into a state-of-the-art complex, preserving only the original external structure and adding extraordinary contemporary elements, such as the sparkling glass dome. The rapid elevator ascent to the top is a must for anyone visiting Berlin, offering a 360° panorama of the city and stunning close-up views of the dome and the mirrored funneled center. The elevator delivers visitors to a panoramic terrace where there is also an expensive restaurant. From here, you can ascend a spiral staircase inside the dome itself, located right above the Plenary Hall. At the top, there are also explanations about the building’s history.
The Reichstag has been at the center of numerous crucial events in German history. After World War I, Philipp Scheidemann proclaimed the republic from one of its windows. The Reichstag fire on February 27, 1933, allowed Hitler to blame the Communists and seize power. A dozen years later, the victorious Soviet army nearly destroyed the building. Restoration, except for the dome, was not completed until 1972. On October 2, 1990, at midnight, the reunification of Germany was proclaimed from here. In the summer of 1995, the Reichstag once again made headlines worldwide when Christo (the famous Bulgarian artist known for ‘wrapping’ public monuments) and his wife Jeanne-Claude wrapped the building in plastic sheets. Lord Norman got to work shortly after.
As you continue on, prepare your camera to capture the majestic Brandenburg Gate, the ultimate symbol of German reunification. The famous Brandenburg Gate, recently restored and a symbol of the division between the two Berlins during the Cold War, now stands as a guardian of embassies, an icon of reunified Germany. It was here, in front of this gate, that in 1987 the then-President of the United States, Ronald Reagan, uttered the now-famous words: “Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall.” Two years later, the Wall would become a thing of the past. The structure, designed by Carl Gotthard Langhans in 1791, is the only gate that has survived out of the 18 city gates. The Quadriga by Johann Gottfried Schadow, the sculpture of the winged goddess of victory guiding a horse-drawn chariot, proudly stands atop a backdrop of Doric columns. Napoleon seized the sculpture in 1806 and kept it in Paris for years. However, with Napoleon’s defeat, the winged goddess was liberated from a gallant prussian general.
The gate leads to Pariser Platz, a harmoniously proportioned square where you could visit the DZ Bank and ask for permission to take a look at the stunning atrium designed by Frank Gehry.
From here you reach Unterden Lunden, Berlin’s historic grand boulevard. As you walk east, you’ll soon spot, on your right, the Russian Embassy, housed in a monumental white marble building. Nearby, you’ll find the elegant Café Einstein, perfect for a refined break. Turning right at Friedrichstrasse, you’ll reach the luxurious Friedrichstadt area. Inside the Galeries Lafayette, designed by architect Jean Nouvel, you can admire the striking glass cone. Remarkable also are the marble decorations by Fienry Cobb and I.M. Pei in Quartier 206. The dining options in Quartier 205 offer various ways to satisfy your hunger.
Just 500 meters from here, you’ll find Checkpoint Charlie, the most famous border crossing between East and West Berlin throughout the Cold War.
Alpha, Bravo, Charlie… The American phonetic alphabet inspired the name of the third Allied checkpoint in post-World War II Berlin. A symbol of the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the primary crossing point for Allies, diplomats, and other foreigners who were permitted to travel between the two Berlins from 1961 to 1990. It was here that American and Soviet tanks faced off in October 1961, bringing the world to the brink of a third world war. To commemorate this historic site, Checkpoint Charlie has been partially reconstructed. There’s a guardhouse from the American military (the original is at the Allierten Museum,) and a replica of the famous sign that warned ‘You are leaving the American sector’ in English, Russian, French, and German. The original sign is now located immediately next door, in the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie Museum. A new office district – with buildings designed by Philip Johnson and other international architects – has arisen around what was once a restricted area.
In the nearby Haus am Checkpoint Charlie you’ll find a captivating account of the years of the Cold War, with a strong emphasis on the history and horrors related to the Berlin Wall. Moving is the section that narrates the courage and ingenuity of some citizens of East Germany who attempted to escape to the West using hot air balloons, tunnels, hidden car compartments, and even a submarine with a single crew member. The rest of the museum focuses on the historical events that marked the city’s life, including the Berlin Airlift, the 1953 workers’ uprising in East Berlin, the construction of the Wall, and the reunification. There is also an original section of the white line that marked the border, where American and Soviet tanks faced off at Checkpoint Charlie in 1961. Other rooms are dedicated to human rights heroes (Gandhi, Lech Walesa, and others) and the world’s major religions. Explanatory panels are in various languages, and the museum also features a café and a shop.
If you’re not interested in the Wall’s history, you can continue your journey directly from Quartier 205 by turning left onto Mohrenstrasse, which will lead you to Gendarmenmarkt, Berlin’s most beautiful square, featuring the Konzerthaus designed by Schinkel and the towering Deutscher Dom and Französischer Dom cathedrals.
Finish your walk in the abandoned area along Niederkirchner Strasse, the most feared institutions of the Third Reich once stood: the Gestapo headquarters, the central command of the SS, the SS security service, and, after 1939, the central office of Reich security. From their desks, Nazi leaders planned the Holocaust and issued arrest warrants for political opponents, many of whom were tortured and killed in the infamous Gestapo prison. Today, the buildings have been demolished (there are signs indicating their layout), and a eerie atmosphere lingers over the abandoned grounds, whose sinister appearance is accentuated by a short section of the Berlin Wall that still stands. Since 1997, this has been the site of a poignant outdoor exhibition called “Topographie des Terrors” (Topography of Terror), primarily dedicated to the years of the Third Reich, with a particular focus on the historical significance of this site and the brutal institutions that occupied it.
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Day 2- Contemporary architecture
Berlin has always been a testing ground for avant-garde architects, but never more so than during the post-reunification building boom. The fall of the Wall made vast empty spaces available, offering the city an opportunity to reshape its image in stone, steel, and glass. The itinerary that follows covers three main areas: the government district, the diplomatic quarter, and Potsdamer Platz.
Start at the Reichstag, the historic seat of the German parliament and the heart of the new Band des Bundes (federal ribbon), as the new urban complex of ministerial and parliamentary buildings is called.
To the north of the Reichstag, turn right onto Paul-Löbe-Allee, pass by the ultramodern Paul-Löbe-Haus (p104), and continue to the Spree River. Following the riverside promenade northward, you’ll spot the futuristic Marie-Elisabeth-Lüders-Haus on the opposite bank. If you want to get a closer look at the building, you can cross the pedestrian bridge, or you can turn west, first skirting the north side of the Paul-Löbe-Haus and later the Swiss Embassy, which has added a postmodern wing to its historic headquarters.
In the meantime, though, your gaze will likely be drawn to the enormous Bundeskanzleramt (Federal Chancellery), where the Chancellor holds cabinet meetings. Heading south on John-Foster-Dulles-Allee, you’ll pass the Haus der Kulturen der Welt.
The extravagant House of World Cultures (Haus der Kulturen der Welt) by Hugh Stubbins represented the American contribution to the 1957 Interbau, an architecture exhibition that brought together the most esteemed international talents in Berlin. Originally designed as a congress hall, its most distinctive design element is the parabolic roof that defies gravity and covers the building like a gigantic shell. Berliners affectionately nicknamed it the ‘pregnant oyster.’ Unfortunately, the architect’s vision was too ahead of its time compared to the technological means available at the time, and the roof partially collapsed in 1980. After reconstruction in 1989, the complex became a cultural center with a rich program of art exhibitions, conferences, seminars, concerts, and other world-class events.
The pond reflects the lines of Henry Moore’s sculpture “Divided Oval: Butterfly,” whose curved profile echoes the building’s design. The 68 bells of the marble and bronze carillon – the largest in Europe – chime at 12 and 18 o’clock every day. On Sundays at 3 o’clock from May to September, a carillonneur performs live concerts, followed by guided tours of the tower.
Continuing west, look across the Spree to where a new residential mega-complex for government employees called Die Schlange, the snake, due to its undulating shape, is taking shape.
Turning left onto Spreeweg, you’ll pass Schloss Bellevue, the presidential residence. This neoclassical white stucco palace, recently renovated, is located on the northwestern edge of Tiergarten and serves as the official residence of the President of the Republic (at the time of writing this guide, Horst Köhler held the position). It was built in 1785 by Philipp Daniel Boumann for the younger brother of Frederick the Great, then later became a school under Emperor Wilhelm II and an ethnology museum during the Nazi era. The President and their staff have their offices in the Bundespräsidialamt building from 1998, just south of the palace. This essentially is the German version of the ‘Oval Office’ of the American White House, referring in this case to the elliptical shape of the entire building, covered in glass and polished black granite. Architecture enthusiasts might want to take a look at a wavy residential complex that stretches 300 meters called “Die Schlange” (the snake), located northeast of the palace on the other side of the Spree River.
Dominating the landscape is the Siegessäule (Victory Column), a triumphal column commemorating Prussian military victories in the 19th century, particularly against Denmark (1864), Austria (1866), and France (1871). The large golden lady on top (standing at a height of 8.3 meters) represents the goddess of Victory, although locals simply refer to her as ‘Golden Elsa.’ Film enthusiasts may remember her in the iconic scene from Wim Wenders’ 1987 film “Wings of Desire” (Himmel über Berlin). The Nazis relocated it here from its previous location in front of the Reichstag in 1938 and added an extra tier to the column, making it an impressive 67 meters tall. You can climb to the top of the column; admission tickets also allow you to visit the small museum and enjoy discounts at the adjacent café and Biergarten. The Siegessäule has become a symbol of Berlin’s gay community (the city’s most prominent gay publication is named after it) and marks the endpoint of the annual Christopher Street Parade. The park around the column is a popular gathering spot for the LGBTQ+ community, especially around the Löwenbrücke area.
Then proceed along Hofjägerallee.
Before long, you’ll see the turquoise façade of the Nordic Embassies (p55) on the other side of the Spree. The complex is very striking at night when it appears as a giant illuminated crystal. Next to it is the equally remarkable Mexican Embassy (p55), preceded by a row of inclined concrete columns. Following the new main quarter of the CDU, one of Germany’s main political parties. The extravagant building resembles a transatlantic liner enclosed in an anvil-shaped glass shell.
On the opposite side of the street is the Bauhaus Archiv, designed by the godfather of modern architecture, Walter Gropius. It’s worth taking a look inside the museum and perhaps stopping for a drink in its café before continuing east along Von-der-Heydt-Strasse and then turning north onto Hiroshimastrasse.
This street features the beige building of the Japanese Embassy M (p51) and the pink one of the Italian Embassy 1 (p50). Both date back to the Nazi era, which explains their pompous style and large size. Continuing east along Tiergartenstrasse, you’ll pass the new South African Embassy V at No. 18, and then turning onto Stauffenbergstrasse, you’ll see the Austrian Embassy (p55). Immediately south of this is the Egyptian Embassy 9 (p55), easily recognizable by the inscriptions decorating its reddish-brown façade.
Further on, the diplomatic quarter gives way to the Kulturforum 20, an architectural showcase created between 1961 and 1987. The most eye-catching building here, especially due to its unique roof, is the Philharmonie 2, completed in 1963 by Hans Scharoun.
From here, our itinerary continues towards Potsdamer Platz, a true treasure trove of contemporary architecture. Arriving from Bellevuestrasse, you’ll see the Beisheim Center 0D on your left, a building inspired by American skyscrapers from the 1950s. To your right, you’ll spot the Sony Center (p108) with its spectacular covered square and the soaring glass skyscraper of the talented Helmut Jahn. South of Potsdamer Strasse stands the Daimlercity Complex (p107), an expression of the creative talent of various architects from around the world. RafaelMonser Bulato c (so-called io (49363), Renzo Piano’s design for the Daimlerchester Building © (p1OTe deritalporaente, and Kolhoff & Kolhoff Haus @, with its distinctive Volksbank & i brickwork, are worth a visit. If you’re in need of a refreshment, you’ll have plenty of restaurants and cafes to choose from in Potsdamer Platz.
South of Potsdamer Strasse stands the Daimlercity Complex (p107), an expression of the creative talent of various architects from around the world. RafaelMonser Bulato c (so-called io (49363), Renzo Piano’s design for the Daimlerchester Building © (p1OTe deritalporaente, and Kolhoff & Kolhoff Haus @, with its distinctive Volksbank & i brickwork, are worth a visit. If you’re in need of a refreshment, you’ll have plenty of restaurants and cafes to choose from in Potsdamer Platz.
Day 3 - Hamburger Bahnhof
The smiling Mao by Andy Warhol, the luminous abstractions of Cy Twombly, and the provocative installations by Joseph Beuys are part of the collection of Berlin’s most important contemporary art museum, which picks up where the Neue Nationalgalerie (p111) leaves off (around 1950). Beuys enthusiasts will be satisfied, as the entire western wing is dedicated to the enfant terrible of late 20th-century German art. The other exhibitions change periodically, but you’ll probably be able to admire works by Robert Rauschenberg, Roy Lichtenstein, Keith Haring, Duane Hanson, and Cindy Sherman. Just as interesting as the artworks contained here (according to some, even more so) is the architecture of the building, a late Neoclassical-era former train station transformed by Josef Paul Kleihues. The main atrium, a spacious area adorned with iron structures, is the perfect setting for large paintings, installations, and sculptures: Richard Long’s Berlin Circle, Mario Merz’s igloo, Anselm Kiefer’s Blei Bibliothek (iron library). The sparkling white façade exudes great elegance and grandeur, especially at night when a luminous installation by the late Dan Flavin bathes the building in kaleidoscopic shades of blue and green. In 2004, the museum spaces were expanded into the adjacent Rieckhallen, a series of interconnected industrial structures previously used by a transport company. Set within corrugated metal panels resembling a giant container, they house works from the prestigious collection of Friedrich Christian Flick, a German industrialist with a passion for modern and contemporary art. The exhibitions change periodically but often include masterpieces by prominent contemporary artists such as Bruce Naumann, Paul McCarthy, Rodney Graham, and Jason Rhoades, along with notable figures from early 20th-century art, including Sol LeWitt, Marcel Duchamp, Nam June Paik, and Sigmar Polke. The museum lives up to its title of “Museum für Gegenwart” (museum of the present) by also presenting a packed calendar of concerts, readings, films, and meetings with artists.
Day 4-
Start your walk from Bebelplatz. This square is named after August Bebel, co-founder of the Social Democratic Party (SPD), and is primarily known because the Nazis organized their first official book burning here on May 10, 1933. During this event, the works of authors considered subversive, including Bertolt Brecht, Thomas Mann, Karl Marx, and others, were set ablaze. It was a terrifying event that marked the end of the cultural greatness that Berlin had acquired in the preceding two centuries. A moving memorial to Micha Ullmann, consisting of an underground library with empty shelves, keeps the memory of this tragic event alive.
Bebelplatz was conceived as the focal point of the Forum Fridericianum, Frederick the Great’s project to create an intellectual and artistic center inspired by ancient Rome. Unfortunately, the king’s costly military ventures depleted the state’s coffers and made it impossible to complete such a grand endeavor.
Nevertheless, several of the planned buildings were constructed, including the Alte Königliche Bibliothek on the western side of the square, and across from it, the Staatsoper Unter den Linden and the Sankt-Hedwigs-Kathedrale in the southeast corner. Next to the church stands the new Grand Hotel de Rome, a temple of luxury hospitality in a prestigious location, housed in a building from that was previously occupied by the state bank of the GDR. The hotel is part of a building development project called Operncarré, which also includes residences, offices, and shops. Along Bebelplatz, Unter den Linden also runs, which at this point is flanked by beautiful historical buildings, including Humboldt University and the Neue Wache by Schinkel. Built in 1818, the neoclassical Neue Wache (New Guardhouse) was Schinkel’s first significant commission in Berlin and is now a monument in memory of ‘the victims of war and tyranny.’ Inspired by a classical Roman fortress, it features a double row of columns supporting a pediment adorned with allegorical war scenes, giving it a certain authority. The original inner courtyard was covered in 1931, and the shaft of light that penetrates it strikes the moving sculpture by Käthe Kollwitz, “Mutter mit totem Sohn” (Mother with Dead Son), also known as Pietà. Beneath the austere hall lie the remains of an unknown soldier, a resistance fighter, and soil from nine European theaters of war and concentration camps.
Take a look at the Reiterdenkmal Friedrich des Grossen (statue of Frederick the Great), a western sculpture by Christian Daniel Rauch. The elaborate building you can see a little further ahead on the south side of Unter Den Linden is the Kronprinzenpalais, the former residence of the crown princes, while the pink palace opposite it is the Zeughaus, the old arsenal that now houses the Deutsches Historisches Museum (German Historical Museum). It’s also worth taking a look at the new wing designed by I.M. Pei. Continue to Bodestrasse, then turn east and cross the bridge leading to the Museumsinsel, an exceptional complex of museums with a rich heritage of painting and sculpture.
If you have limited time and need to visit only one of the museums in Berlin, undoubtedly choose the Pergamon Museum. It is a true triumph of classical Greek, Babylonian, Roman, Islamic, and Middle Eastern art and architecture, originating from excavations conducted by German archaeologists in the early 20th century. This gigantic complex, which was only completed in 1930, actually houses three significant collections under the same roof: the Collection of Classical Antiquities, the Museum of the Ancient Near East, and the Museum of Islamic Art. Each one is worth visiting at a leisurely pace, but if you have limited time, focus on the following highlights.
The main artifact from which the museum takes its name is the reconstruction of the Pergamon Altar (165 BC) from Asia Minor (in Bergama, modern-day Turkey). It is a colossal sanctuary dedicated to Zeus, with a staircase leading to a U-shaped colonnade. Incredibly vivid friezes depicting episodes of the Gigantomachy, the battle of the gods against the giants, are carved along the entire base. Ascend the steps of the altar to closely admire the Telephus frieze, which narrates the myth of the founder of Pergamon, the son of Heracles.
The next hall contains another important artifact: the immense Market Gate of Miletus (1st century AD), a masterpiece of Roman architecture. The Museum of Ancient Middle Eastern Antiquities presents a completely different culture: that of Babylon during the time of King Nebuchadnezzar II (604-562 BC).
It is impossible not to feel awe in front of the reconstructions of the Ishtar Gate, the ‘processional way’ leading to the gate, and the façade of the throne room. They are all adorned with bricks painted in cobalt blue and ochre. The rampant lions, horses, and dragons representing the main deities of the Babylonians are so impressive that you can almost hear their roar and the fanfare. Another wonder in the collection is the intricate façades of the Temple of Uruk, decorated with colored clay inserts and highly detailed bas-reliefs. Finally, in the Museum of Islamic Art, don’t miss the palace of the caliph of Mshatta from the 8th century in present-day Jordan, resembling a fortress. Also, highly visited is the Aleppo Room from the 17th century, originating from a Syrian merchant’s house, where the walls are entirely covered with painted and richly decorated wooden panels. Try to allocate at least two hours to this incredible museum.
Dominating the island is the silhouette of the magnificent Berliner Dom, where many members of the Hohenzollern dynasty are buried; the cathedral’s gallery offers a splendid panoramic view of the city. Overlooking the cathedral stood the now-demolished Palast der Repubik, demolished in 2007 by the DDR government. They plan to build a replica of the royal palace that originally stood in its place.
After passing the cathedral, turn right and reach the Mark-Engels Forum, alongside statues of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels, and continue to the nearby Rotes Rathaus (Red City Hall), the seat of the municipal administration
Continue eastward, and if you have time, ascend the Fernsehturm (Television Tower), the tallest building in Berlin, soars to 368 meters towards the sky. From the panoramic platform, located at a dizzying height of 203 meters, you can distinguish the city’s main monuments and points of interest, admire the size of Tiergarten Park, and compare the urban layout of what used to be East and West Berlin. At the top, you’ll find the Telecafé, which serves coffee, snacks, and full meals while completing a full 360° rotation in 30 minutes. Built in 1969, the tower was supposed to showcase the technological superiority of East Germany (DDR), but instead became a source of embarrassment. When illuminated by the sun, the steel sphere beneath the antenna produces a reflection resembling a giant cross – certainly not a welcomed sight in an atheist country where crosses were even removed from church rooftops. Western Berliners wittily nicknamed the phenomenon ‘the Pope’s revenge.’
Head then to Alexanderplatz. Once the hub of commercial activities in East Berlin, Alexanderplatz – often abbreviated as “Alex” – was originally called Ochsenmarkt (Oxen Market), but it later changed its name in honor of Tsar Alexander I, who visited Berlin in 1805. Today, it’s just a shadow of the vibrant neighborhood that Alfred Döblin described as the pulsating heart of a cosmopolitan city in his 1929 novel, “Berlin Alexanderplatz.” Severely damaged during the bombings of World War II, it acquired its current appearance, strictly adhering to socialist principles, in the 1960s thanks to the urban planners of the German Democratic Republic (DDR). The Fernsehturm (TV Tower), the Interhotel Stadt Berlin standing at 123 meters, and the Centrum Warenhaus (now Kaufhof), which was once the DDR’s most important department store, all date back to that era.
Among other famous landmarks are the Brunnen der Völkerfreundschaft (Fountain of Friendship among Peoples) and the Weltzeituhr (World Time Clock). Adjacent to these is the Haus des Lehrers (House of the Teacher) with a frieze by Walter Womacka, which is now part of the nearby Hig Berlin Congress Centre.
Although there are plans to transform Alexanderplatz into a mini-Manhattan dotted with skyscrapers, the program (for now) remains on hold due to a lack of funds and investments. Nevertheless, the square is gradually changing its appearance. In 2005/06, the Kaufhof department store underwent a complete overhaul according to the design of Josef Paul Kleihues. The traditional honeycomb façade was replaced with a sleek glass and travertine covering, along with the addition of a bright central courtyard with a glass dome.
Not far away, the 1929 Berolinahaus by Peter Behrens is being transformed into a branch of the C&A clothing store chain, which opened its first store in Alexanderplatz in 1911. And not too distant, in an area bounded by Alexanderstrasse, Dircksenstrasse, and Grunerstrasse, the new Alexa Shopping Mall is taking shape. The Franco-Portuguese investors hope to be active there by early 2007 with approximately 200 shops and a large fitness center, as well as dining options.
Leave the square and proceed along Münzstrasse, a street leading to Scheunenviertel, the historic Jewish quarter of Berlin, now one of the liveliest areas in the city, filled with excellent restaurants, shops, and nightspots. Turn left at the intersection with Neue Schönhauser Strasse, a street brimming with boutiques and shops offering the most original creations, and then turn left again on Rosenthaler Strasse, arriving at the Hackesche Höfe, a series of beautifully restored interconnected courtyards filled with bars, shops, and entertainment venue. One of the most well-known tourist attractions in Berlin, the Hackesche Höfe (1907), is a complex of eight beautifully restored courtyards filled with cafes, art galleries, fashionable boutiques, and entertainment venues. The most charming is Hof I (entrance from Rosen-thaler Strasse), whose facades are adorned with rich Art Nouveau tiles designed by the artist August Endell. From Hof VII, you can access the Rosenhöfe, a small single courtyard with a rose garden lower than street level. The metal balustrades with intricate flower and branch motifs create a quirky ensemble.
Take Oranienburger Strasse, the main street of Scheunenviertel, and head north, perhaps taking a break by the river at Monbijoupark. Soon, you’ll reach the beautiful Neue Synagogue (New Synagogue), the most prominent symbol of the rebirth of the Berlin Jewish community.
The glittering golden dome of the New Synagogue stands as a symbol of the revived Jewish community in Berlin. Designed in Moorish-Byzantine style by Eduard Knob-Rauch, the original synagogue from 1866 could seat 3,200 people and was the largest synagogue in all of Germany. Thanks to its beauty and rich decorations, it became an important city monument. During the 1938 pogrom, known as Kristallnacht (Night of Broken Glass), a local police superintendent prevented the SS from setting fire to the building, an act of courage commemorated with a plaque. Nevertheless, the Nazis managed to desecrate it, although religious services continued until 1940 when the synagogue was expropriated and turned into a warehouse. Allied bombs nearly destroyed the building in 1943. With the consent of the small East Berlin Jewish community, the East German government demolished much of the ruins in 1958, leaving the main facade as a memorial. In 1988, Honecker announced his government’s decision to rebuild the synagogue, but the regime collapsed before the project could begin. The reunited German government adopted the project, and the New Synagogue was inaugurated in May 1995. It serves not only as a place of worship (though religious services are held in a small room on the second floor) but also as a museum and information center. Permanent exhibitions document the history and architecture of the building and its role in the lives of those who practiced their faith there. Among the items on display are a model of the synagogue, a Torah scroll, and a perpetual lamp from the original structure, unearthed during excavations in 1989.
Guided tours take you behind the building, where a glass and steel structure supports the remaining ruins of the sanctuary, and a stone band outlines the giant profile of the original synagogue. There is also a dedicated space for special exhibitions on the upper floor. The dome is accessible from April to September.
Adjacent to the synagogue is the entrance to the Hackmanhöfe, another creatively restored courtyard complex.
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Buenos Aires
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Boca
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San Telmo
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Playa de Mayo
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Recoleta
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Palermo
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Kilimanjaro
If you have the experience in numerous high-altitude climbs over 4000-4500 m, you might try the Umbwe route. It is one of the most challenging routes due to the short duration and steeper incline. It goes along the southern slope but is less frequented than other southern routes because of the challenge it poses. The first day poses one of the biggest challenges – the route starts quite low from Umbwe Gate (1,640 m) and continues with a lengthy trek to the first camp on your way – Umbwe camp (2,930 m).
When the trail reaches Barranco camp, it will merge with Lemosho and Machame and therefore you might meet more people at the camps. The camps are not crowded at all, you might meet 3-4 other groups in the peak season (July-September as an example)
Day 2: TREKKING FROM UMBWE GATE TO UMBWE CAMP
A guide and a mountain support crew will arrive at the hotel in the morning in order to meet you and hold a quick briefing, after which you will travel by vehicle to the entrance to Kilimanjaro National Park: Umbwe Gate (1,640 m). After the quick formality of acquiring climbing permits and registering with the search and rescue service, the group will start trekking up to your first camp: Umbwe Camp (2,930 m). This will be a long trekking day that includes an important increase in altitude, so don’t hurry. It is important to find the right pace for your group and stick with it for the rest of the trip. You should also remember to take your raincoats: this route includes passage through a rainforest, where tropical showers are highly probable.
Change in Elevation: Umbwe Gate (1,640 m) — Umbwe Camp (2,930 m)
Hiking distance: 11 km
Hiking time: 5-7 hours
Day 3: TREKKING FROM UMBWE CAMP TO BARRANCO CAMP
Early wakeup, breakfast and the start of trekking to Barranco Camp. The rainforest will quickly give way to brush, and if it is not too cloudy you will be able to see Meru Volcano for the first time. Trekking for this day will be of a moderate length, and around lunchtime you will reach Barranco Camp (3,960 m), which is nestled inside a huge volcanic fault. Lunch will be provided here, and then you have the opportunity to relax for the rest of the day, which significantly facilitates the acclimatization process.
Change in Elevation: Umbwe Camp (2,930 m) — Barranco Camp (3,960 m)
Hiking distance: 6 km
Hiking time: 4-5 hours
Day 4: TREKKING FROM BARRANCO CAMP TO KARANGA CAMP
Early wakeup, breakfast and the start of summiting Barranco Wall (we recommend you leave the camp as early as possible to avoid crowds of the other groups). Hiking up the gorge wall is not difficult and only takes around an hour. After the climb you can have a rest and take photos in front of the Kibo volcano. Then you start a more difficult hike to Karanga Camp, which features numerous ascents and descents during the route, but don’t worry: our guides are experts at choosing an optimal pace for the group. After reaching the camp you will be offered warm lunch. After a couple of hours you will have to complete an acclimatization hike in the direction of Barafu Camp with a 200-meter gain in altitude, and then descent back down to the camp.
The acclimatization hike is an easy trek with a slight gain in altitude done in order to speed up the acclimatization process.
You should take the acclimatization hikes very seriously. They help increase your chances of successfully summiting Kilimanjaro and save you from the consequences of altitude sickness.
Trekking from Barranco Camp to Karanga Camp:
Change in Elevation: Barranco Camp (3,960 m) — Karanga Camp (4,035 m)
Hiking distance: 5 km
Hiking time: 4-5 hours
Acclimatization hike:
Change in Elevation: Karanga Camp (4,035 m) — Destination point en route to Barafu Camp (4,270 m)
Hiking distance: 2.5 km
Hiking time: 1-2 hours
Day 5: TREKKING FROM KARANGA CAMP TO BARAFU CAMP
In the morning after breakfast you begin your way to Barafu Summit Camp (4,640 m), the starting point for a night summiting Uhuru Peak (5,895 m). Our team will set up a camp for you ahead of time, including tents and sleeping bags, so you can relax.
After regaining strength, you have to complete an acclimatization hike towards the intermediate Kosovo Summit Camp (4,800 m) and then back to Barafu Camp, where you will be served a hot dinner. It is better to spend the remainder of the day resting and sleeping before night summiting.
Trekking from Karanga Camp to Barafu Camp:
Change in Elevation: Karanga Camp (4,035 m) — Barafu Camp (4,640 m)
Hiking distance: 6 km
Hiking time: 4-5 hours
Acclimatization hike:
Change in Elevation: Barafu Camp (4,640 m) — Kosovo Camp (4,800 m)
Hiking distance: 2 km
Hiking time: 1-2 hours
Day 6: ASCENT TO UHURU PEAK AND DESCENT TO MILLENNIUM CAMP
Departure from Barafu Camp (4,640 m) at night and the start of summiting Kilimanjaro: Uhuru Peak (5,895 m). Technically the climb is relatively simple; however, the most challenging part is the high altitude. Each pair of climbers will get a personal guide for the entire ascent to monitor your physical and mental conditions. After your successful ascent to Uhuru Peak, you can descend to the nearest glacier if desired. Then you will return to Barafu Camp and after a 2 hour rest continue your descent to Millennium Camp (3,820 m).
Don’t forget that 90% of all accidents occur during the descent, including all broken arms and legs. Please pay attention to your feet, as there is a high risk of damaging your toenails.
Change in Elevation: Barafu Camp (4,640 m) — Uhuru Peak (5,895 m) — Millennium Camp (3,820 m)
Hiking distance: 15 km
Hiking time: 8-12 hours
Day 7: DESCENT FROM MILLENNIUM CAMP TO MWEKA GATE
The camp is situated in a tropical rainforest. When you wake up, you will feel relief from the reduction of the height and the satisfaction of reaching the summit. After a warm breakfast, you will head for the park’s exit: Mweka Gate (1,640 m). After your descent the whole group will gather to congratulate you, followed by offering you a chance to share your opinions on the climb in the guestbook. Lastly, we will present you with your commemorative certificates in our office and provide you a transfer back to the hotel.
Change in Elevation: Millennium Camp (3,820 m) — Mweka Gate (1,640 m)
Hiking distance: 12 km
Hiking time: 4-5 hours
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Parque Nacional Los Glaciares
Los Glaciares National Park is located in the area known as Austral Andes in Argentina, in the south west of Santa Cruz on the border with Chile. By his magnificent natural beauty, it constitutes a wonder in the world, and was declared “World Heritage” by UNESCO in 1981.
This park shows a scenario of mountains, lakes and woods, including a large portion of the Andes practically under ice and snow to the west, and the arid Patagonian steppe to the east.
Its name refer to the glaciers that are born on the Ice Caps – the largest continental ice extension after Anctartica- which occupies almost half its area. Also known as Patagonic Continental Ice, creates 47 big glaciers, 13 of which flow to the Atlantic. There are also more than 200 smaller glaciers, unconnected to the Ice Caps.
All over the world glaciers are over 2500 mts over sea level, but here, in Santa Cruz, they are originated on the Ice Caps, at 1500 mts over sea level, and flow down to 200 mts, having the possibility of an unique approach and view.
As a result of the enormous pressure of the antique ice and the subsequent thaw, three big lakes, two of them inside the NP appeared: Lago Argentino and Lago Viedma, the waters of which flow as Rio Santa Cruz to the Atlantic Ocean crossing the province
Cerro Fitz Roy - Laguna de Los Tres
Laguna de Los Tres is one of the most iconic hikes in Patagonia and the best trek you can do from El Chalten in Argentina. It’s also known as Fitz Roy hike because the trail will take you to the classic viewpoint of Mount Fitz Roy and the lake.
Laguna de Los Tres means in English Lake of the Three, and the number three represents here three peaks towering above the lagoon – the highest Mount Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, and Mount Poincenot.Finding trailhead to Laguna de Los Tres couldn’t be easier.
The trail starts at the north end of the urban area of El Chalten. You only need to follow Avenida San Martin until you reach the parking lot on your left.
From the parking lot, the trail starts quite steeply up. The first ascent lasts about an hour, but in the end, you will be rewarded by a splendid view of De las Vueltas river sneaking through the valley.
From this mirador, the path continues up, but not that steeply. You will walk on a narrow path partially hidden in the forest until you reach a fork where you can decide to turn right and walk through the Mirador del Fitz Roy or turn left and go via Laguna Capri.
Generally, it does not matter which option you’ll take as you can walk the other side on the way back.
But if the weather is pleasant, you should go via the viewpoint first as the situation can change any time, and it might be the only time you’ll get the chance to see the iconic Fitz Roy from a distance.
After you enjoy the panoramic views, the path continues down and soon became flat, which will be a welcoming change.
The path will now wind through the low thicket, along Del Salto Stream, and later you emerge in an open valley and walk a very scenic section where you will go across wetlands, so from time to time, it will be necessary to cross wooden boardwalks.
At the end of this part, you will find a campground in the woods, where you can have a snack and recharge as you have the most challenging one-kilometer-long section ahead of you.
On this last kilometer, you will gain 400 meters in elevation and have to walk the rocky trail – watch every step as it is easy to lose balance here.
If you bring trekking poles, they will help you a lot in this section.
Finally, after approximately 45 minutes, you will reach the end of the trail and be rewarded with stunning views of the lake and three towering peaks behind.
Chorillo del Salto
This pleasant trek is perfect for a first contact with the natural environment of El Chaltén, you walk through a forest area in a footpath with no difficulty. At the end of the trail a lovely waterfall and its stream invite you to take a break for contemplation at the shelter of the native forest.The trail begins in El Chaltén, at the end of Av. San Martín, on the same trailhead towards Laguna De los Tres; You must take the path going to the right. In a short time the trail ascends and immediately after it descends until you reach the unpaved route that leads to the Lago del Desierto (Provincial Route 41). Shortly after you will find a signpost on your right hand side indicating the entrance to the “Bicisenda”(bike trail) -a path exclusively for cycling, do not enter- and after a few minutes more, you will see another signpost to your left indicating that the path to the Chorrillo del Salto continues crossing the low forest of Ñires entering the foothill area again.In less than half an hour you will reach the last stretch of the trail where there is a car park area; It means that you can also get here by car or bicycle. In the last section of the trail you enter only on foot, it is forbidden to enter with bicycles. This beautiful footpath is completely flat, between low trees. The distant sound of the waterfall anticipates that you are approaching the end of the route.The waterfall is on the last leg of the Arroyo del Salto, before it flows into the De las Vueltas river. The total distance of this trek is less than 4 km from El Chaltén.
Mirador de Los Condores - Mirador de Las Aguilas
Starting from El Chaltén, you cross over the access bridge of the Fitz Roy river and then continue along to the trailhead starting at the National Park Visitors’ Centre. After a short walk you cross a small gate with a sign indicating the way to the left, and a few steps further you will see a second sign showing you the trail plan. From here it will be another half hour until you reach the Los Cóndores viewpoint. This footpath is relatively new, since it has been opened in 2004. It is well signposted and on its way you will find several informative signs that will let you appreciate the landscape around you. As its name indicates, the viewpoint is strategically located for the eventual observation of condors in their frequent flight between the valleys of the De Las Vueltas river and the Fitz Roy river. Furthermore it is an excellent alternative for admiring the impressive granite peaks and glaciers dominating the horizon.
The trail to the Las Águilas viewpoint begins at the signposted bifurcation about ten minutes before arriving at the Los Cóndores viewpoint. This short trail has a gentle slope and as you go along you will discover the great Viedma lake on the horizon. The viewpoint is a natural balcony with a panoramic view over the steppe and the Viedma lake to the south, the Cerro Huemul to the west and the Cerro Piramide to the east.Cerro Torre - Laguna Torre
From El Chaltén there are two head trails to Laguna Torre ; both paths merge within 5 minutes walk. Although the trek to the lake is quite long – 9 kilometers one way, the trail gains only 250 meters in elevation during this distance, and the majority at the beginning of the trail. The trail enters the valley of the Fitz Roy river and follows up alongside the stream to its source. At only 15 minutes walk you will access the first viewpoint located at the gorge of the Fitz Roy river which offers an impressive panoramic view of the Cerro Solo, Adela range, Cerro Torre and the Mount Fitz Roy. Across the river canyon lies the Margarita waterfall. Once you get to the Mirador Cascada Margarita, the first viewpoint, the hike from this point is not demanding, and you will walk mostly on a flat path, with occasional up and down sections.
Halfway through the path you will reach a natural viewpoint with magnificent panoramic views of the Adela range, Cerro Torre and the satellite granite needles. Finally the trail crosses the De Agostini base camp where it is possible to spend the night in your tent.
Leaving behind the campground, the path continues towards the frontal moraine, which ascends until reaching its crest after walking for 15 minutes. From there it is possible to go down to the Torre lagoon. This lagoon tends to group numerous icebergs on its shore which has fallen off from the front face of the Grande glacier.
If you have enough energy and want to get a better view of the glacier, it is possible to extend the trip and climb up from Laguna Torre to Mirador Maestri. This detour will add approximately 2 kilometers one way (depending on how far you want to go) and a minimum 1 hour.
Other treks
Loma del Pliegue Tumbado
The trail starts at the National Park Ceferino Fonzo Visitors` Centre, where a small fence indicates two paths: to the left, the trail goes to Los Cóndores and Las Águilas viewpoints, and to the right towards Pliegue Tumbado and Laguna Toro / Paso del Viento. This trail maintains an ascending slope of approximately 1100 metres in total (3,610 miles), until reaching the viewpoint located at about 1500 metres (4,920 feet) above sea level. Due to its height, the absence of trees and the total exposure to the wind, you should go prepared with a windproof jacket and warm clothes since a small snowfall is not uncommon even in the middle of summer. Having walked for about an hour, the trail crosses a plain called “Pampa De las Carretas”, from where you can appreciate the impressive Mount Huemul, the Viedma lake to the south and the whole imposing Andes to the northwest where Mount Torre and Mount Chaltén stand out. The trail then enters a beautiful forest until reaching an altitude of approximately 1000 metres above sea level, where the landscape changes abruptly: the trees turn to bushes and scrubby vegetation, and among the many stones on the way it is possible to find the remains of marine fossils which are bout 100 million years old. The last part of the trail fades away but it is still marked with yellow sticks until you reach the top of the Pliegue Tumbado -which can be snowed and if this is the case it is not recommended to continue- with an extraordinary panoramic view.
Huemul Glacier - Lago del Desierto
This trek takes place in the Southern region of Lago Del Desierto, 37 km from El Chaltén. To get there you can take the services of private transfers. This trek is the usual option for those who arrive at the lake and have little time to spend in the area. You will be able to enjoy the extraordinary views of the north face of Mount Chaltén and the valley of the De las Vueltas river. The trailhead starts a few metres away from the free parking area. Remember you must pay the entrance fee since the entire trek is in private property. The footpath quickly enters the Lenga forest and after a few minutes it begins its ascent on a well-marked trail. n little more than half an hour you will reach a moraine ridge with breathtaking views of the De las Vueltas river valley and the Mount Fitz Roy. Towards the NE you will see the Lago del Desierto and the snowcapped mountains of the Del Bosque range. After walking along the moraine ridge for about 15 minutes you will arrive at the beautiful Huemul lagoon, fed by the glacier of the same name.
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Alexandria
Alexandria was founded over 16 villages, encompassed between lake Marouthe and the Mediteranean sea. The Egyptians living here were fishermen and farmers at the time, while wealthier Egyptians preferred to stay closer to the river Nile. For such reason, all the Egyptian statues of kings and queens that you may find in Alexandria were just brought here at a later point in time, as no noble lived here in ancient Egypt. Later on, when the Greeks and Romans came, they cherished Alexandria and its port because of the closeness to the Mediterranean and their homeland.
Alexander the Great came to Egypt in 331 BC and went to Memphis for 1 year, to control the whole Egypt. As he was going towards Libya, he stopped at one of the 16 villages, where later on the catacombs were created, and from there he made of Alexandria his capital. Alexandre died at the age of 33, whether poisoned or from a fever, before he could see his capital finished. He was succeeded by his general Ptolemy I, who gave rise to the Ptolemaic dynasty that continued until Cleopatra VII. At the time of Cleopatra the 7th, Alexandria was still the capital and remained such for 7 more centuries. Cleopatra and Julius Cesar’s extramarital love produced an heir, Cesarion, that was later adopted by Marc Anthony as he married Cleopatra while going at war with his co-consul Octavian. With the defeat of Marc Anthony and the death of Cleopatra, Cesarion never gained the throne and Alexandria passed under the control of the newly founded Roman Empire.
The cohabitation of Egyptians, Greek and Romans under the Empire was made easier by their polytheism and the mutual adoption of the ancient Egyptian gods, while with new names, and continued till the Arab invasion.
Catholicism was introduced in Alexandria by Saint Mark, who from Libya arrived in Egypt. In the year 60 AC, when polytheism was still diffused all over Egypt, he was walking the streets of Alexandria and his sandals tore. The legend says he stopped at a shoemaker who, while mending his sandals, hurt himself: St Mark invited him to pray Jesus and the wound healed. That shoemaker and his family were the first to be baptized and he later became the first pope of the Coptic church (that is the reason why the Coptic Pope up to today is called the Pope of Alexandria).
Catacombs
“Cata” means “under” and “comb” means “tomb”, so these are literally underground tombs. So when you reach the site, don’t get fooled by the sarcophagi waiting for you before the entrance, as these were carried here later to create atmosphere! But do pay attention to the grass on your left: this was the level of the ground covering the tombs when they were discovered in the 1900’s. At that time, when nobody knew of the existence of the tombs, a donkey carrying a heavy load fell into the shaft as the terrain collapsed. After excavation, multiple mummies, skeletons and ashes were found, a proof of the multicultural use of these tombs. Only poor people were cremated; rich Greek and Romans were mostly mummified, an Egyptian inheritance as a way of preserving the body for the afterlife. Less wealthy people could get mummified but with less layers of lines and less intricate wrappings. Another difference was that mummification lasted 70 days for rich people, as they were immersed in tar (the word “mummy” comes from the Persian word “mumiat” that means “asphalt”), while only 40 days for commoners. This is the reason while today, muslins and orthodox go to pray at day 40 after a passing.
The Catacombs seen from the shaft 
The triclinia The catacombs are carved in the rock except for the shaft, and even the stairs are original. They date to the II century AC, used by the polytheistic Romans for at least 3 centuries.
The shaft was built mainly to lower the sarcophagi
The tomb has 3 floors, the second one being the main one as it shows perfectly the mixture of cultures and art (Egyptian, Greek and Roman) that was Alexandria.
While you enter the tombs on the first floor, note the benches that used to provide rest for the visitors, and the half shell on their top, coming from the Venus tradition of the Romans. Far ahead to your right, an area opens with 3 stone benches. This room, known as the Hall of Banquets, was reserved for mourners to visit their deceased. The benches are triclinia, where the families used to eat and drink; the remaining’s of the feast were stored in plain jars and thrown on the floor to avoid bad luck (till now, Greeks before dancing throw plates on the floor, Jews break glasses after weddings).
The next room hosts the loculi, square holes where bodies were buried one on top of each other. Note that the loculi on the lower level have a round portion for the head, these were probably reserved for wealthier people to be buried alone.
The second floor was used in the beginning by a rich family and was housing their sarcophagi; later the tomb was enlarged and multiple loculi were added. Here you are welcomed by a pure mix of the 3 cultures: note above your head the circle with wings, symbolizing Ra, the columns carved in the Greek way but with leaves of papyrus, and the 2 statues facing each other, a man and a woman with Roman features but Egyptian dresses. By the door of the burial chamber, a Medusa head overhangs a fanged snake with a Aesculapian symbol next to it. Enter the burial chamber, you will see that the noble family sarcophagi are carved in one piece to prevent tomb robbers from opening them. Above them, the goddess Isis with winged arms looks at her brother Osiris, here in the form of a bull. Over the central tomb, the god Anubi is presiding over a mummification. Three canopii containing the deceased organs are at his feet.
Vault to the Hall of Caracalla On the right side of the second level, you enter into the Hall of Caracalla. The roman emperor was not particularly loved but he was very smart, and to put an end to his multiple enemies among the young Romans inhabiting Alexandria, he indicted a horse race just above the Hall. While his young enemies were racing, the terrain gave way and they all fell and died in the catacombs, together with their horses whose bones you can still see under glass. The Hall is surmounted by a triangular vault (Greek in style) with the Ra disc in the middle, and paintings both Egyptians and Romans in style.
You can walk down to the third floor but there is nothing to see here.
Pompey’s Pillar
In this area rose a Greek temple with 400 columns, a 90×80 m square built in the III century BC and used both by Greek and Egyptians. When the Romans came, they continued to use the temple to worship their deities. During the times of Diocleziano in 297 AD, to get the approval of the people of Alexandria, he built the pillar that now is standing alone. As such, the name “Pompey’s pillar” is a misnomer, as it was built 300 years after the death of Pompey and it’s technically not a pillar (square) but a column. The Pompey name comes from one of the triumviri, Gneo Pompeo, that broke the allegiance with Cesar and was thus killed: his head was delivered to Cesar in a golden bowl and the body cremated and the ashes lost. After the pillar’s erection, a jar with the ashes was discovered by Romans and placed on top of the pillar as a way for the name “Pompey” to be remembered.
The pillar is 500 tons and 30 meters high. It was carved from the granite in Assuan and transported by water through the flooded Nile: Romans followed the Egyptian ways of transporting heavy loads by river, they tied the pillar to wooden boats on every side.
The Pompey pillar 
Api, the bull form of the Egyptian god Osiris The two sphynxes that guard the pillar are in honor of 2 of the successors of Ptolemy I. Around the pillar, ruins of the original temple that was destroyed by an earthquake in the VI century AD. The temple was known as the Serapium Temple: the suffix “-ium” means “massive”, while Serap is the name of the god Osiris. Osiris had human form, or could assume the form of the bull Api, and from the word “Osirapi” the Greek got the name Serap. When the Greeks invaded Egypt, they adopted the same gods as the Egyptians but with a condition: no forms of animals and no forms of birds. As such, the Egyptians dropped the Api-bull form of Osiris, and the Greek adopted him as Zeus; Horus, son of Osiris, did not have the head of a falcon anymore but the form of a child.
While walking to the pillar, look to your left and go down few stairs that lead to the original sanctuary of the temple: here you will admire a replica of the Api-bull with the Ra-disc between the horns.
On the right side, a sign points towards the library but there is not a lot to see here.
Bibliotheca Alexandrina
It was not Alexander the Great who built the original library, as he died few years before his capital was completely finished. His generals took power and they gave rise to the dynasty of the Ptolemy. The idea of a magnificent library was put in Pt I mind by his statesman Dimitrios, governor of Athens, and philosopher. The library was completed in 288 BC and it was under Ptolemy II that the library flourished so much that because of the numbers of scroll a second satellite was built.
The decline of the library started with the war of Alexandria, when Cleopatra VII battled on of her brothers Ptolemy XIII for the throne of Egypt and a large portion of the library was destroyed by accident. The final destruction of the library happened when Julius Cesar was at war with Pompey. At the time, Cesar and Cleopatra VII were lover, and so Cleopatra’s brother (the good one, not the one with which she had battled) in an attempt to satisfy Cesar killed Pompey and had his head delivered to his brother in law. Cesar, still a man of honor, wanted to kill Pompey in fair battle and as a revenge he burned Cleopatra’s brother fleet. The fire however extended from the sea to the library and many scrolls were burned. Some of them were rescued, but a second fire by arson in 392 AD burnt the remaining scrolls. Only one scroll survived, ironically, the classification of the all lost scrolls… And it’s kept in Vienna, not even in the new library!
The Bibliotheca Alexandrina The reconstruction started in 1972 with an idea suggested by the Chief of Department of History of Alexandria. The Bibliotheca Alexandrina as we see today was started in 1995 with a competition won by a Norwegian architectural firm and finished in 2001; the official opening with books was in 2002.
The BA has the shape of an incomplete rising sun to symbolize how knowledge can spread; the wall is made of 6000 granite blocks coming from Assuan, on them we find 4200 letters engraved from 120 languages. The library now hosts sections for children 6-11, for young adults 12-16 yo and for adults over 16 years of age there is the main reading area.
The main area is the biggest open reading space in the world, accommodating 2000 people at a time. It hosts 2.5 million books in various languages. Each floor of the open area is specialized in a particular subject: ancient maps (with 7000 maps), arts and multimedia, rare books (15000 manuscripts dating back to the late 1400), francophone library, braille library. The ceiling has an inclination of 16 degrees to limit the damage to the books from direct sunrays; the multiple glass panels covering the ceiling take the shape of an eyelid from the inside and eyelashes from the outside to prevent accumulation of water and dust. Green and blue led lights, symbolizing the earth and the sea, provide relaxation for the readers.
The walls are covered in concrete walls that reduce the sound and absorb the echo.